- Joined
- Jul 12, 2011
- Messages
- 44
Up until now, I've been using 100 grit for grinding purposes. It takes ages to get anything done though. I'm wondering whether I should move to 60 or 40 grit as my primary grinding material.
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Good grit for grinding?
- Thread starter shadowspawn
- Start date
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- Mar 6, 2013
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- 19
I use 40 grit belts for profiling and initial grinds.
- Joined
- Jul 12, 2011
- Messages
- 44
Norton 3X sandpaper. I got some 60 grit paper but I'll likely pick up some 40 grit later on when I'm around again. Also would 3M paper be on par with Norton in terms of not clogging, etc.? I can buy bulks of 3M paper while I can only buy a pack of 3 or 5 for the Norton paper at the hardware store.
Quick question, what are you grinding exactly? I just assumed knife edges.
As far as Norton paper goes, i have no experience, but i never had 3M clog on me. If we are talking metal that is. Wood and handle materials are way outside my comfort zone
Back to grinding metal, I think it was Obsessed with Edges that got me to try using windex with wet or dry sandpaper, and i love it. Just keep a window open.
As far as Norton paper goes, i have no experience, but i never had 3M clog on me. If we are talking metal that is. Wood and handle materials are way outside my comfort zone
Back to grinding metal, I think it was Obsessed with Edges that got me to try using windex with wet or dry sandpaper, and i love it. Just keep a window open.- Joined
- Jul 12, 2011
- Messages
- 44
Quick question, what are you grinding exactly? I just assumed knife edges.
As far as Norton paper goes, i have no experience, but i never had 3M clog on me. If we are talking metal that is. Wood and handle materials are way outside my comfort zone
I'm gridning down a typical double bevel knife with factory edge down to a convex.
@knifenut: Mostly because they're high maintenance. I need to worry about keeping it clean, flattening it out after every session, and their porous nature makes them retain water for ages which means that I can't just pick it up and use it/store it wherever I want to. I started off using a bunch of whetstones but after a year or so, I switched over to sandpaper since all I need to do when the sandpaper starts losing its bite is swap out for a new sheet.
Jason B.
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
- Joined
- Jun 13, 2007
- Messages
- 11,186
Well, you have waterstones, oil stones, diamond stone, and ceramic stones. There is also splash-n-go waterstones of a few different flavors, so I would say that a maintenance factor is all about the stone you chose.
Imo, you shouldn't need to go to such a low grit. Only makes it harder to remove those deep grind marks further up in the progression.
Imo, you shouldn't need to go to such a low grit. Only makes it harder to remove those deep grind marks further up in the progression.
If you are looking for low maintenance stones heavy removal, just get a cheap diamond stone. The grit size quality isn't that important when it's that coarse and the diamonds will make quick work of any steel. You can just follow up with sandpaper the way you've been doing. If you hold the stone in one hand and use the other to sharpen the knife with a quick circular, scrubbing motion, it'll convex the edge enough naturally so you're not going from a near v to convex.