Good knife for whittling and carving?

[Surfingringo]

Hi all, I was wondering if anyone can recommend a good knife for carving/whittling? I used to carve a lot of figurines (as well as some larger statues and tikis) out of wood and stone, but somehow I got out of the habit. Well, I'm looking to start back up, and wanted some good recommendations for a knife...for wood, not stone obviously.

I used to work almost exclusively with exacto knives...the little small thin blades ones that could be broken off. They worked pretty darned well actually, but I am considering getting a dedicated knife for these projects. I am thinking something along the lines of a small Case or something...I don't know. I know that small and thin is often better for this kind of knife. I would love to hear any recommendations from you guys.

Thanks,

Lance

 

[Kwon Kwang]

Since you're used to the style already, how about a Cold Steel Tuff Lite? It's inexpensive, made with good materials, and is super strong. Nice big choil to give you additional control over the blade, too.

That straight AUS8A edge is also going to be wicked easy to sharpen.

 

[muddog15]

I use a Mora Clipper. Works really good.

 

[evilgreg]

I like Cold Steel Tuff Lites and Moras best.

I have these and some other odds and ends:

These are my favorites:

And semi-related, I've tried carving a few little quickie tikis out of basswood and found tiki heads to be fun little projects:

 

[Surfingringo]

Thanks for the ideas, but that cold steel definitely is way to big for my technique. Those little flexicut knives look pretty good though. I don't know. Maybe ill just go grab some little exactos...you can buy em for like a buck in the hardware store and they work great for me.

Something like this.

I was just kind of looking for a nice folder that I could use like the box cutter for detail work.

 

[Kwon Kwang]

The Tuff Lite also comes in a Mini size if the original is too big for you.

 

[evilgreg]

Surprisingly, I don't find the tall blade shape as limiting as I thought I would. I also have a traditional GEC Whittler, but I didn't like carving with it at all.

The Moras I use most (120 and 122) don't have very tall blades, and for fine detail I use the custom carving knives in the photo (a Drake detail knife and a Deepwoods Ventures Draper detailer).

The Mini Tuff Lite is tiny as folders go, and for example I was able to carve this fairly elaborate ball inside of a ball with just the Mini Tuff Lite shown:

 

[Sam Dean]

I do lots of whittling. If your going to be working on something for a while, I like the flex cut knives the best. The rigidity of a fixed blade can't be beat, and the handles are very comfortable. They also have a folding set of 6 tools that is a great traveling set. For foldind "whittling" knives, my first go to is a victorinox electrician. After that, the Case seahorse whittlers and a good thin 3 or 4 bladed stockman or congress pattern. I have some by Case and Boker that are my favorites.

I'll try to take a photo in a bit.

 

[Kwon Kwang]

Surprisingly, I don't find the tall blade shape as limiting as I thought I would. I also have a traditional GEC Whittler, but I didn't like carving with it at all.

The Moras I use most (120 and 122) don't have very tall blades, and for fine detail I use the custom carving knives in the photo (a Drake detail knife and a Deepwoods Ventures Draper detailer).

The Mini Tuff Lite is tiny as folders go, and for example I was able to carve this fairly elaborate ball inside of a ball with just the Mini Tuff Lite shown:

Jesus, man. That's beautiful work. I...I think I need a Tuff Lite now.

 

[Surfingringo]

Interesting Greg. It's really different in shape to anything I've ever used to carve, but I've started reading and watching some reviews and seems a lot of folks are using it with great success. Ultimately I need to hold one and see what it feels like to me. I know everyone has a little different technique...I use both thumbs to push the spine usually. I feel that gives me tons of control and I guess I could see that working with the tuff lite.

Btw, nice ball in ball! I like the pattern.

Also, I noticed spyderco makes a knife similar in design (thou much more expensive) called the equilibrium. Anyone ever used that?

 

[evilgreg]

Jesus, man. That's beautiful work. I...I think I need a Tuff Lite now.

Thanks, you're too kind. I just started whittling this spring, and it's been a fun learning experience. I've carved a lot of little projects using mostly Tuff Lite knives, often while I'm on conference calls for my day job, or in the evening while sitting out back:

Interesting Greg. It's really different in shape to anything I've ever used to carve, but I've started reading and watching some reviews and seems a lot of folks are using it with great success. Ultimately I need to hold one and see what it feels like to me. I know everyone has a little different technique...I use both thumbs to push the spine usually. I feel that gives me tons of control and I guess I could see that working with the tuff lite.

Btw, nice ball in ball! I like the pattern.

Also, I noticed spyderco makes a knife similar in design (thou much more expensive) called the equilibrium. Anyone ever used that?

I cut using both thumbs all the time with the Tuff Lite--I find the round shape to the blade gives me a nice lever action for controlled short power cuts, with the left hand holding the wood and left thumb playing the pivot, and the right hand and thumb on blade spine providing the lever action.

As far as carving with the Tuff Lite goes, I know it looks and sounds wrong, but I swear by it at this point and would suggest "don't knock it until you've tried it" should apply. I started out with a traditional whittler pattern, a GEC Tidioute #54 IIRC, and while it cut wood it didn't make me that happy. I stumbled on to the Tuff and Mini Tuff and loved working with them, but felt silly whittling with Cold Steel knives. So then I proceeded to buy a couple of hundred dollars worth of dedicated wood working knives--only to find I still prefer the Cold Steel knives . . .

I've seen but not purchased the similar Spyderco designs for two reasons: the Tuff Lite when locked feels about as close to a fixed blade as a folder can, and I trust that Tri-Ad lock completely. Second, the Tuff Lite is cheaper, and carving every night means stropping multiple times daily and sometimes sharpening every day or two as well. It's easier to not mind removing metal daily from a $25 knife than a much more expensive knife.

If you try a Tuff Lite or Mini Tuff Lite, make sure to round the spine/soften the gimping a bit (if not a nice full half round, at least file or sand the sharp edges off). Doing this will greatly improve whittling comfort. As you can see, I also like to paracord wrap and then athletic grip tape wrap mine for extra long term carving comfort.

Don't forget to take a wander over to The Workshop, where you'll find plenty of whittling and carving gear conversation . . .

 

[Surfingringo]

"I cut using both thumbs all the time with the Tuff Lite--I find the round shape to the blade gives me a nice lever action for controlled short power cuts, with the left hand holding the wood and left thumb playing the pivot, and the right hand and thumb on blade spine providing the lever action"

Yep. You articulated much better than I, but that's it. And yeah, for $25 it's to that hard to give it a shot

 

[Ironmage]

I use a Bear&Son carbon steel series barlow for about 90% of my whittling. I think I gave around $20.00 brand new. The Whern cliff like pen blade is ideal for just about all your work and it can go anywhere with you.
A flex cut whittling knife would be my first choice of a at home knife.

 

[Kisatchie]

another possible option is a boker tree brand 280 ,,if you are wanting a pocket whittler

 

[De Plano]

There is a thread in Activities, skills and training -Workshop sub forum (a couple actually) you may want to check out.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/f...-Workshop-Projects-Tools-Techniques-amp-Ideas

 

[Kershaws]

Tuff- Lite seems pretty nice for the job, how does the edge hold up with the carving for you?

 

[tobin420]

i was looking into buying a alox sak and came across this one it called the carver

 

[cbach8tw]

Small blade on a Swiss Army knife. Maybe regained it a little to make it sharper. I was looking at a carving book in a folk art museum in the mountains of western NC, that is all he used.

 

[JSCHENK]

I personally have found the case sway back jack in cv (chestnut bone) is a great whittling knife. GEC makes a good geppetto whittler it fills the hand well and has several blades to choose from. I personally like the wharencliffe blades for the main blade. I've found the pen gives just enough belly to do curves and the coping blade is great for detail work. If you can find a courthouse whittler they are great aswell. IF your wanting more of a fixed blade I like Mora knives I've got a 4" blade hunting knife rosewood handles and brass, laminated blade works great for large projects, Also a Butz is a good litte project kind of knife

 

[goodeyesniper]

I love the blades on the swayback jack, but the handle isn't as filing as is ideal for extended whittling. though it's not bad. no hot spots for me, more fatigue from awkward grips sometimes. my SAK Hiker fills the hand a little better and the small pen blade ain't bad at all. all my other knives with better handles just have too much blade for me to control. while it might be fun to set out to carve with my military, I usually abandon it quickly.