good knife modifiers

S

serpientes

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Apr 13, 2013
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Anyone know any really good knife doctors on the east coast(general proximity of virginia-new york)?
I'm trying to get a satin finish on a cbt fbm and some other work done.
Would like to get it done by norcalblacktail but don't really want to send them all the way to california.
The way the post office has been acting nowadays I'd rather just drop off and pick up if possible.

Also have any of you guys had a cbt fbm satinned before? And if so post pics please.
 
Garth is making me a custom zilla right now and i don't want anymore work standing between the deliver of that blade into my hot little hands hahah..i'll keep him in mind though if no one knows someone closer to the atlantic.

also to be clear i do not want the cbt to be "satined off" the blade. i want it satin between the grooves.

thanks for the speedy answers fellas.
 
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I think the easiest way would be to bead blast and then hand satin. If I had a bead blaster I would do it for ya but getting a nice finish In between the cbt would probably take way too long with just hand sanding.
 
yeah i'm wondering if getting between the grooves is gonna be an issue.
though i did see a post where the guy had a mirror finish on his cbt fbm. it was mighty awesome!
 
its all in the detailing he probably used a buffing wheel with cutting compound to remove scratch pattern to get to satin then
changed wheel and compound to finer polishing...its all about time and materials...good luck
 
I'd just get various grits of wet/dry and hand sand it yourself a little bit every day. No need to rush and take as much time as you need.
 
I have a stripped CGFBM and I think it looks great the way it is. I can get some pics when I get home. It will take a ton of work to get satin inside the CBT. I have seen a satin Hell Razor.
 
I know a really bad one :p what exactly are you wanting done besides the satin finish? I think you could do the satin yourself. I do mine the hard way, but I've heard it takes less than an hour with a flap wheel. Then I'd do what I could in the corrogations probably with something like black compound on fabric and the edge of a wood block.

If you want to get through the dimples and everything it would be a lot of work.

This is what it looks like under the coating
IMG_20131122_202319_702.jpg

IMG_20131122_202425_307.jpg
 
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To get something like that you will have to remove the scales. Which isnt necessarily the hard part, putting them back on is if you dont have the right tools for flaring the tubes.
 
A satin CGFBM is a labour of love ... you need a couple of wedged shape pencil erasers and graduated grits of wet and dry paper ... strip the blade and use the erasers like a sanding block to wrap the wet and dry ... the wedge shapes let you get into the CBT's without removing metal on the tips of the grooves ... tape the two erasers together in the middle to get a decent sized "block" ... you don't have to remove the grips ... the rubber is soft enough to get inside the grip grooves right to the edge ... once you have a ghetto mirror finish ... use a scotch bright wheel to make it a brushed satin finish ... lots of patience and TLC and you will have a knife with your DNA impregnated into it and you will never sell that blade!
 
PeterPHWS said:
you will have a knife with your DNA impregnated into it and you will never sell that blade!
Click to expand...

Funny you say that!!! I tend not to sell knifes that I bleed on!! ESPECIALLY when said knife is responsible for stitches. I tend to cherish those knives most!!
 
PeterPHWS said:
A satin CGFBM is a labour of love ... you need a couple of wedged shape pencil erasers and graduated grits of wet and dry paper ... strip the blade and use the erasers like a sanding block to wrap the wet and dry ... the wedge shapes let you get into the CBT's without removing metal on the tips of the grooves ... tape the two erasers together in the middle to get a decent sized "block" ... you don't have to remove the grips ... the rubber is soft enough to get inside the grip grooves right to the edge ... once you have a ghetto mirror finish ... use a scotch bright wheel to make it a brushed satin finish ... lots of patience and TLC and you will have a knife with your DNA impregnated into it and you will never sell that blade!
Click to expand...

I just used a natural rubber block I picked up at ACE hardware to do what you are describing. I have heard people say you can fashion your own rubber block from the sole of an old pair of sneakers.
 
I just use erasers like Peter said. They work great on feed ramps too with round instead of triangular.
 
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