good results with s30v...ok results with 154cm

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Jul 16, 2012
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Hi all,
I'm a long time reader but first time poster.
I've sharpened all my knives with the Lanskey sharpening system with good results on various steels: vg10, s30v, 440c and 8cr13mov. I don't have the diamond hones or anything special, only the basic stones that come in the kit from Academy.
My favorite edc blade is the benchmade griptlian in 154cm. I sharpen it but I never get sharp as some of the above mentioned steels.
My manix2 xl,had Knicks in the blade and was to dull to cut paper. That blade was s30v and after some time I got it razor sharp.
For some reason I can't get the 154cm sharp as I would like to, with this system. Any suggestions guys? I am considering ordering a griptilian from the benchmade website in s30v.
 
Your standard hones might be glazed over after sharpening the S30V; glazing will make them slower or completely ineffective on anything following. S30V's vanadium carbides will actually be harder than the grit of your standard Lansky hones, so diamond is better-suited for that steel. Ordinarily, assuming the stones are in good shape, 154CM should be simpler than S30V to sharpen up.

I had & used a 'Deluxe' kit from Lansky, with the standard corundum/AlOx hones. I ruined two of them in trying to re-bevel a ZT-0350 in S30V; it dished them out, and they stopped cutting entirely, due to glazing.


David
 
Is there a remedy for glazed over stones. Instead of saving these, stones should just order the diamond stones. I have a bench made with m390 and I've just maintained it with a strop.
I have 6 griptillians and they all have been sharpened, never come out as sharp as my other knives. I don't want to send them in to be sharpened as I enjoy sharpening my own. I find it relaxing.
If these stones are"shot", is the diamond stones the best way to go? I'm assuming the all out sharpening on my manix2xl rendered these stones useless? Thanks for the in put guys.
 
Perhaps it's also, stone glazing aside, an issue with the edge geometry on Benchmade's? They tend to have thicker edges than FFG Spyderco's.
 
Are ultra fine and sapphire hones also too soft for s30v?

Nope, I have the diamond set of stones for my Lansky and have used them for S30V along with the fine and sapphire and they work just fine. I thought the fine and sapphire stones were ceramic.
I've sharpened CPM S110V and haven't had any issues.
 
I would just buy the extra coarse and coarse diamond stones, I had a brand new extra coarse standard stone glaze over on a D2 blade before I was even done reprofiling so I taped the coarse diamond stone from my worksharp field sharpener to the bottom of one of my lansky stones and that did the trick, and it was a less aggressive grit too. All the really hard, high wear resistant steels sharpen fine with regular stones but for reshaping diamond is pretty much a necessity in my experience.
 
Are ultra fine and sapphire hones also too soft for s30v?

In absolute terms, the vanadium carbides in S30V will be harder than the UF's Alumina (AlOx) and Sapphire (which is also AlOx). BUT, the carbides are relatively small (2-4µ), and likely smaller than the effective grit of those hones. So you could refine/polish down to that ~2-4µ level and produce a pretty decent mirror finish with those ceramics. If wanting to go much finer to actually shape the carbides, some harder abrasive grit would be needed (like diamond or CBN at ~3µ or smaller).


David
 
Is there a remedy for glazed over stones. Instead of saving these, stones should just order the diamond stones. I have a bench made with m390 and I've just maintained it with a strop.
I have 6 griptillians and they all have been sharpened, never come out as sharp as my other knives. I don't want to send them in to be sharpened as I enjoy sharpening my own. I find it relaxing.
If these stones are"shot", is the diamond stones the best way to go? I'm assuming the all out sharpening on my manix2xl rendered these stones useless? Thanks for the in put guys.

I'd go ahead and get the diamond hones (In my case, I did, after ruining the two stones from my kit). Lansky's hones are cheap enough to replace, so attempting to re-surface or lap them likely is more work than is worthwhile.

Whether your existing stones are actually useless or not, it's hard to say. You could try them out on simpler steels like 1095 or 420HC, maybe even 440C; if they can't handle those well, I'd toss 'em.


David
 
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