Good sale find on contact adhesive!

G

GrizzlyBear

Joined
Dec 5, 2009
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(( rules violation ))Among this stuff, is 3.7oz tubes of GOOP Automotive contact adhesive....(( rules violation ))

So curiousity got me and I looked up the MSDS sheet of the GOOP and compared it to that of Barge Cement. They are quite similar, both using a mix of toluene and naptha.

I bought 6 tubes and may buy more after I go home and give it a test run. (( rules violation ))
 
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G-bear, I am not familiar with the cement you have mentioned so cannot comment on its merits. I use Weldwood contact cement and find that by shopping around, Walmart, Kaymart, and Home Depot, that Walmart gives the better value by a CONSIDERABLE MARGIN on the quart can. If you are a slow user you can always transfer a pint or more to an individual container for future use. ---Sandy---
 
Thanks for the heads up! I'm going to test the GOOP out tonight on some scrap leather and see how it does.
 
I have been an advocate of all the different Goop adhesives for many years. They are one of the strongest flexible adhesives I've ever used, and they grab just about anything short of vinyl!

They originally came out as 'Shoe-Goo' made for repairing athletic shoes and rebuilding heels on dress shoes. As a heel builder, the stuff lasts a lot longer than any heel will. I used that on the bottom of my hiking staff about 30 years ago, making what looks like a 'crutch tip' with it, and coating the lower 10 inches of the staff. In all these years, with thousands of miles of rough terrain, it still looks just barely used!

Then, about 15 years ago, the Shoe-Goo company went under. You couldn't find it anywhere. Another firm bought up the rights to it and began putting out the same adhesive in different tubes with different names, this time with all of them ending with 'Goop' instead of 'Goo.' Shoe-Goop, Plumber's Goop, Automotive-Goop, Marine-Goop, etc. I use it all around the house any time I need a really strong bonding adhesive. The stuff has a thousand and one uses...

... but I wouldn't use it on leather except for emergency repairs. It's just too thick! You can thin it down, but it still doesn't spread as easily as Barge Cement or any other contact cement. I've rebuilt fiberglass motorcycle side pieces with it, put water pipes together with it when I didn't have solder handy, fixed fuel lines and radiator hoses, hung wall decorations, repaired broken furniture, etc., etc., but it wouldn't be my first choice when looking for an adhesive to put together a sheath.


Stitchawl
 
Thanks for that info. I tested it out today (only bought 1 tube, and held the other 5 back awaiting test). It was very thick and didn't want to spread on as easy as Barge. So I took 2 pieces of leather, applied a normal coating to the rough sides and let them sit till non-tacky, just as I do with Barge.

Once non-tacky, yet still glossy, I put the 2 together and hammered. Now, at this point, with Barge, they're there...no pulling apart. This stuff held, but not very well at all. Looks like I'll keep my $.97 tube for random things and stick with Barge :)
 
Wise decision, Griz. it's hard to beat a known winner.

and in the "what it's worth" section. I buy my Barge in gallons and pour it off into one of those teflon glue pots that seem to be so darned high priced. They are pricey, but in the end worth every penny. This also allows me the advantage of thinning the Barge as I use it considerably thinner than most of you guys. Also the brush applicator is much easier and more precise than trying to manage it out of a tube. A gallon lasts quite a long time but if sealed carefully it keeps really well. It can be thinned with either the Barge Brand thinner or Toluene, brand name "Tulene" found at most paint and hardware stores.

Paul
 
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Gentlemen, to explain the rules violation:

We discourage use of Bladeforums to advertise outside sources. We have paying dealers whose money supports these forums. Referring to them is OK.

We are not a bulletin board for other businesses. If we allowed this, we would soon be overrun with shills.

You can recommend and discuss a product. Do not recommend a source or a price there.
 
While I understand your side of citing the violation, I find that it is an EXTREMELY silly one to point out.

In these times where our economy is in the dumpster and every penny counts, I would think that a sale find that could put a little more cash back into our fellow knifemakers' pockets wouldn't be frowned upon.

You might as well send me another warning, because there's another recent thread in the Shop Talk- Blade Smith Questions & Answers forum where I posted a killer deal on granite surface plates from ((Link Removed)) Several members were able to benefit from that posting.

Think of it this way, more money saved by members on this forum allows them to spend more money on their forum memberships.
 
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If we let one go here and another one there, next we'll be policing shills from everywhere, once they hear Bladeforums allows free advertising. And if we do allow free advertising, why should Dealers continue to pay for their memberships?

Of course, it isn't really free. What no one else pays, Spark has been covering. So you are really being generous to your fellow members with Spark's money.
 
Craig, well, two things ( I think) the no deal spotting rule has been in effect for a very long time and is one of the more well known ones.

I do realize your trying to save us some money, kind of didn't work out anyhow, but sometimes cheaper isn't better

One way of calling our attention to a product without deal spotting would be to simply start a "Testing this Product" thread. "I got a really good deal on this stuff, wonder if it really works or not" If someone asks where, you can e-mail or PM the info. Its more work, but it stays within the rules.

Hope this helps a little.
 
GrizzlyBear said:
Thanks for that info. I tested it out today (only bought 1 tube, and held the other 5 back awaiting test). It was very thick and didn't want to spread on as easy as Barge. So I took 2 pieces of leather, applied a normal coating to the rough sides and let them sit till non-tacky, just as I do with Barge.

Once non-tacky, yet still glossy, I put the 2 together and hammered. Now, at this point, with Barge, they're there...no pulling apart. This stuff held, but not very well at all. Looks like I'll keep my $.97 tube for random things and stick with Barge :)
Click to expand...

You used this product incorrectly. It is NOT contact cement. You do NOT let it dry or get tacky before putting the pieces together. It is NOT cement, it is adhesive.

To use Goop or Goo correctly to put to things together, spread it onto one side and immediately press the two sides together. Press well, clamp if used on a vertical surface or there will be slippage. On horizontal surfaces there is usually no need for clamping. The rougher the surfaces to be joined, the stronger the bond, but because of its naturally adhesive quality it works very well on smooth surfaces too. I've used it to put together sheet metal with no problems, glass, copper pipe. (Works well to stop leaks in piping providing you can get a dry surface to begin with.) As a thin bond, it will be dry to the touch in a couple of hours, but it takes at least 12-24 hours to get a good solid join.

Once completely dry, it will be impossible to break the bond. With leather, if you try to separate two sides, the adhesive will not separate but the leather will tear apart if enough force is used. Wood will just splinter beside the bond. Although Goop remains flexible, it is VERY difficult to even cut it with an exacto blade.

To use Goop or Goo to build up a section, apply in thin layers and allow to dry completely before adding the next layer.

Again, it is NOT contact cement, but it will do emergency repairs on leather that will hold forever. Remember, it was developed to fabricate replacement material for worn down boot heels. The stuff is damn tough!


Stitchawl
 
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Hmmmm.

Well, it does say "contact" on the label, so I figured I would use it like contact cement. I'll try again, applying it like you said and see how it does. Thanks for the heads up.
 
GrizzlyBear said:
Hmmmm.

Well, it does say "contact" on the label, so I figured I would use it like contact cement. I'll try again, applying it like you said and see how it does. Thanks for the heads up.
Click to expand...

I think you can learn to love the stuff. When it's used in the right way for the right job the stuff is bomb-proof! I always keep three tubes of it in the drawer; clear, black, and white. For me, the old saw about 'WD-40 and Duct Tape' gets the addition of Shoo-Goop. With those three I can repair the world! :thumbup:

When I want the thin it down, I use the thinner made for tent seam sealer. That works well and also speeds up the drying time.


Stitchawl
 
stitchawl said:
For me, the old saw about 'WD-40 and Duct Tape' gets the addition of Shoo-Goop. With those three I can repair the world! :thumbup:
Click to expand...

Well, I'm a big fan of WD-40 and duct tape (especially Gorilla Tape), so I'll have to try Shoo-Goo.
 
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