Good steel and design for machete?

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Mar 24, 2006
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Looking around on the web, I come across all kinds of steels and designs used in machetes. They look like they all sell, so those that actually use them on a regular basis, what is considered ideal steel and perhaps a practical design.
 
Machetes tends to take really heavy impacts as they are used for fairly rough work and will contact rocks and similar on a regular basis. The main requirement for the steel is thus a high toughness so you are looking at steels like 1045. The design depends mainly on the use as some of them are fairly specialized. The Ontario designs are the basic working pattern which you see variations of in pretty much every line.

-Cliff
 
5160 seems to be the most common steel for toughness used by custom makers.
 
I have seen steels like; 5160 carbon, L6 carbon, Recycled steel, Spring steel, AUS-8 stainless, 420 stainless and few others. Which one? Are any real bad on a working blade, which ones should I keep away from.
 
The stainless ones are often found on "fantasy" designs and designed more for visual appeal than actual working performance.

-Cliff
 
Linder convex machete in 420 stainless is pretty good at chopping through wood. I find no need for any "better" steels in a machete that will get dull, no matter how hard a steel you used. And 420 is tough as hell, and is pretty easy to sharpen, so that'd be my choise.
 
I like the steel in my machetes a bit harder than you commonly find. The blades in machetes are so broad that the only durability concern is the edge (assuming you don't go overboard with the hardness). My old favorite machetes were the Legitimus Collins brand (not related to Blackie Collins) that closed down US operations about 35 years ago. They were the top brand all over the Americas due to their toughness and edge holding. A soft edge easily ripples if you sharpen it to a narrow profile like I like to do. I never had a problem with edge chipping, just some denting. You can still get something similar to the Legitimus Collins models under the Nicholson or Nicholson-Collins brand made in South America. I have used Columbian models that were quite good.

I don't recall quite where I got my information, but I believe that the Collins alloy is/was a rather simple carbon steel, closer to 1084 than to 1045. They picked an alloy that would get hard and yet was easy for them to heat treat en mass. Legitimus Collins machetes could be distinguished by the way that they would ring if you flicked them with your fingernail. I think this related to how they were fabbed and hardened as well as the alloy. I would estimate that they were in the mid fifties RC. I would sharpen mine with a file and the file wouldn't skate, but it was definitely harder than the low 50s. I might guess it was in the 54-56 RC range. Anyway, I would not pick a stainless alloy for a machete.

Machete designs fall into two camps, thick and thin. A true machete in the South American tradition is thin and long. They are for cutting light flexible brush. When you are cutting brush, vines, bushes, and thin branches you need a fast moving thin blade that cuts all the way through your target with minimum resistance. Since your target flexes away from your cut when under pressure, you need speed to take advantage of the inertia of the target. A long thin blade moves fast and has minimum drag. The thick machetes are more of a Malay Archipelago tradition (Philippines, Indonesia, Malasia). In those areas there are more hardwoods to cut. A Philippine bolo machete is shorter and thicker (or at least thicker) than a Mexican machete. The thick US military machetes from early in the 20th century were devised for work in the Philippines. With thicker and harder wood to cut you want a blade that is similar to an axe blade in cross-section. When you cut into thick wood your blade tends to bind and be hard to pull out. A thin flat machete can really get stuck. A convex contoured thicker bolo blade can be more easily levered out. Thin machetes are optimum when they can cut all the way through or nearly through their target in one swing.
 
Tramontina long handle cane knife




don't chop a 2x4 with one :D





first 2 pics are the same cut, on both sides of the board. Blade was angled downward, since the wood was on a 21" high house block when I smacked it. Not bad penetration, almost an inch on the short side. It did bind horribly on all cuts (6 total, only uploaded a few pics) especially near the knot. Before I destroyed the edge, I sharpened it-from a fine silicon carbide stone, to medium and fine sharpmaker ceramic rods held flat, to 2.5 micron SiC paste on newsprint, to a chromium oxide loaded leather strop. I struck closer to the handle as well, where there isn't visible damage to the blade, but the edge reflects light-it blunts like mad. It can still shave in between the two areas of failure, and near the tip.

Of course, it's a cane knife, not meant for chopping wood. I just got bored-and I am wondering about geometries for choppers. Maybe 1/8" thick, convex ground in a tougher and harder steel could survive this.
 
I don't know what steel it uses but i have a cold steel Kukri machete and it works realy well for choping wood. however the handl has no shock absorbing qualities.
 
The stainless ones are often found on "fantasy" designs and designed more for visual appeal than actual working performance.

-Cliff
Say Heah Cliff, I'll get right to it, Is a 52 RC good for a 13" Machete made from a L6 Steel, Thanx in advance

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Really old thread and Cliff is banned. My favorite machetes are made by Condor. Pick the one you like. My generalist blade is the 18" El Salvador (latin type) or a panga type design. Condor makes many sizes and shapes and both their 420HC and 1075 works well with their machetes.
 
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