Good target hardness for 80crv2 in a folder blade?

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I've got some baker forge stuff with 80crv2 as a core... Peters said they can push it up to 64-65hrc but wouldn't recommend it that hard. The article by Larrin Larrin states that this steel has almost no carbide so it highly benefits from hardness increases.

The folder blades are not hard use and I'm used to using s90v and such (will be for daily use though).

Even if I push the hardness up to 63hrc (according to the knife steel nerds chart) it looks like the toughness ft/lbs would still be around 20 (or 64 would be around 10) which is around the cruwear range for the former (20) and vanax range for the latter (10).

What hardness should I have peters heat treat to?
 
I run my 80CrV2 fixed blades in the 60-61 range but I grind fairly thin so I don’t want them too brittle. I’d have to believe you could go a little harder on a folder blade.
 
You need to keep in mind how frustrated someone might get trying to sharpen a blade at 63-64hrc. Also how easily will the edge chip if torqued? People do some not-so-smart things with folders like trying to pry things, turn screw heads, etc.

Eric
 
It's a lower carbide steel, so it's not bad to sharpen at 63-64. 80CRV2 at 62 is a breeze to sharpen! Touches up super quickly, too. Easier than AEB-L at that hardness and takes a wicked fine edge. I am used to Magnacut, S90V, 20CV and other harder/alloyed steels and 80CRV2 just sharpens so nicely.
 
It's a lower carbide steel, so it's not bad to sharpen at 63-64. 80CRV2 at 62 is a breeze to sharpen! Touches up super quickly, too. Easier than AEB-L at that hardness and takes a wicked fine edge. I am used to Magnacut, S90V, 20CV and other harder/alloyed steels and 80CRV2 just sharpens so nicely.
I'm exactly the same... This will be insanely easy compared to s90v haha.
 
I have made plenty of 80CrV2 fixed blades at 62-63 Rc with around 0.012 bte and have had zero issues or reports of issues. For a folder I would lean towards 63-64 Rc. For me personally I find I need around 12-15 ft-lbs of toughness from Larrin's test to be fine with thin edges and harder use.

I think people often get carried away by the perceived amount of impact toughness they need in a knife.
 
I have made plenty of 80CrV2 fixed blades at 62-63 Rc with around 0.012 bte and have had zero issues or reports of issues. For a folder I would lean towards 63-64 Rc. For me personally I find I need around 12-15 ft-lbs of toughness from Larrin's test to be fine with thin edges and harder use.

I think people often get carried away by the perceived amount of impact toughness they need in a knife.
I think you're right... I'm gonna go with 63-64
 
We’ve come a long ways.
When I started making knives in ‘78, most factory knives were 54-55 hrc. Most custom knives were 57-58 hrc. It was thought that over 60 hrc was too brittle. Over time, it started to creep up to 59-60, then 61-62. Today most knives are over 60 hrc, lots of 63-64 thanks to all the testing. I’ve seen a few close to 70 hrc.

You’ll be fine at around 63-64 hrc. The harder the blade the easier it is to sharpen because it produces a smaller burr.

Hoss
 
We’ve come a long ways.
When I started making knives in ‘78, most factory knives were 54-55 hrc. Most custom knives were 57-58 hrc. It was thought that over 60 hrc was too brittle. Over time, it started to creep up to 59-60, then 61-62. Today most knives are over 60 hrc, lots of 63-64 thanks to all the testing. I’ve seen a few close to 70 hrc.

You’ll be fine at around 63-64 hrc. The harder the blade the easier it is to sharpen because it produces a smaller burr.

Hoss
Thanks Hoss, I appreciate you chiming in!
 
Like Hoss, I grew up with all knives being in the low to mid Rc50's hardness. You sharpened them with a file and any abrasive thing around. Every kitchen had the required washer type sharpened. It shaved off steel along the edge like a bastard file on mild steel. We sharpened knives while camping on a rock and stropped them on our boots or belt.

Knives were sharpened at much higher angles than today o make the edge last a little longer. If you went for a lower angle the wire created was a big problem to get rid of.
One noticeable thing back then - The wire from sharpening was really a large projection from the edge, because the steel was so soft. You could flip it back and forth with your fingers.

When I made my first knives in the 60's, good steel was whatever I could find that would harden. When a knife was finished, I thought it was the hardest things on earth. I water quenched, forge tempered, and probably hit Rc55-57. There was no real way to know the actual hardness back then, and to tell the truth, I didn't even know that there was a measurement system for hardness. My only use of the words rock and well was dropping a rock in a well to see how deep it was.

By the mid 70's a commercial knife was around Rc57. When I went back to knifemaking in the late 1990's, I hardened to around Rc58-59, like everyone else did. Now my soft blades are Rc-59-61, and chef blades are 62-63-64.

Part of this is the far better steels available today, but much is better HT and understanding of metallurgy. Hobby and custom knifemakers now use HT ovens, proper conditioning of the steel prior to quench, and accurate tempering ... plus actually measuring the hardness.

Re-reading my post makes me feel really old. I mention an open dug well (don't see those anymore), found steel being the best source, young kids having knives, sharpening knives with files and pull-through sharpeners, and not knowing any metallurgy or what hardness really was. That would seem like caveman technology to todays knifemakers.

Funny (not so funny to me at the time) memory from this:
In 1959, I was getting ready to go camping with dad and his scout troop for the first time. I wasn't a Boy Scout yet, but went to the meetings with dad and had spent lots of time in the woods and camping as a family. He was letting me come along as a mascot. I had my gear packed early Friday morning and decided to make sure my pocket knife was sharp. I pulled it through the kitchen hand-held washer sharpener a few times ... and the last pull it dropped across my thumb. It sliced to the bone. Mom had to take me to the navy base hospital and four stitches. We got back with plenty of time to meet dad and the troop at the church. I went to get my gear and was told that I couldn't go for fear of getting an infection. I was so bummed. I made the best of it by pitching the tent in the back yard and spending the weekend outside. To this day you can still see the place where I cut that thumb.
 
I'm doing the same thing here, Baker Forge framelocks at 62-64 RC after I do more reading. My real concern is what detent material do I run with the softer cladding. Does it even matter? I think I will run steel and tune it on the lighter side... lots of folders out there with this stuff. I'm running some with wrought cladding and think it will all be good.
 
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