Good thin pocket or BOB stone for carbon and stainless

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Apr 3, 2018
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I am trying to find a really nice, preferably thin and lightweight, single or dual grit stone that will work well on both stainless steel and carbon blades. It will be carried in my SHTF and BOB gear. Also I would definitely prefer a water stone over oil. Weight and size are real factors as well.
So what stone would you recommend based on your experiences?
Thanks
 
Welcome to BF!

What kind of stainless steel blades will you use in your emergency gear? The first 2 examples below can handle modern PM steels with high vanadium carbide content (like S30v), while the last one does great on carbon steel and other stainless.

My faves:
* DMT dual-grit diamond folder sharpeners (I like the XC/C, and the F/EF ones--if you just get one, I'd get XC/C for emergency and utility use).
* Spyderco DoubleStuff 2. Dual-grit, CBN 400 mesh on one side, fine ceramic on the other. Pretty good, and VERY compact and pocketable, but not as effective at sharpening as the 1st and 3rd options listed.
* Baryonyx Arctic Fox field stone. Dual grit, basically a coarse and fine grit.
 
In addition to what is listed above, another option for the high vanadium content steels are the Venev dual sided stones. They come in a variety of grits and a variety of sizes. There are two smaller dual sided options that would fit your needs. They use water as a lubricant. I really like them.

For carbon steel, check out the variety of stones that fit the Edge Pro. You can get water stones in a variety from aluminum oxide to Shaptons. They are compact and fairly rugged since they are adhered to an aluminum backing. I don’t have the EP but use the stones on my carbon blades when traveling.
 
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I have a custom made Gerber I received back in nam. It is not like any other gerber you ever saw. It has an aircraft grade aluminum handle and a very thin surgical stainless blade about 3 inches long. I used it for certain things a few times. I have always used a polishing wheel to keep it, the blade, nice with some jewelers rouge. It looks a lot like one of those robust moras but without the horns or stops on the grip. also a good bit smaller. I kept the grip wrapped with electrical tape as it was impossible to hold when my palms were sweaty. Thats for my self defense.
I also have a beat up BK 7 and I have been considering a knife I saw on Youtube "Bushcraft Knives - 'The Myths Exposed!'". Called the Bushprowler made by a guy named ilkka Seikku. Love at first sight for me. I can feel it in my hand already. And I want to get a stainless mora, maybe the Robust as a camp knife.
So that's the mix. I have been ogling baryonyxknife.com. I can get a education just reading the descriptions. And I have checked out the Spydercos on amazon. Thanks Maximus83, for pointing them out. I have seen a few nice ones that look like they are what will do the job. The Venev stuff I see is russky so no way for me.
I have seen those folding diamond sharpeners but I have always heard they don't last, the diamond grit will soon fall off. anyway, I like the idea of stone and water. I had a tiny ceramic pocket stone that came with my Gerber but lost that years ago so I had switched to a piece of very smooth ceramic tile from a kitchen floor with 3-in-1 oil, then I ran into a guy who sharpened doctors surgical knives and he showed me how to polish the edge with a rag wheel and rouge.
So that's about it. I would like some ideas on what grits on the dual sided stones would be able to do both stainless and regular steel.
 
For the steels mentioned (carbon steels, simple stainless), a simple aluminum oxide pocket stone like the one demo'd above^ would likely be fine. The Gerber stainless mentioned is likely akin to something like 440A, which can be sharpened up easily on such a stone, as would also be the case for simple carbon steels. I generally favor stones like this for such steels, and/or something like a medium ('soft') Arkansas stone for additional refinement, beyond the finish left by the AlOx stone.

If choosing a diamond hone instead:
Bias the choice toward the finer end of the grit scale, for use on simpler steels. The suggestion of a Fine/EF diamond is pretty good. Since the steels being sharpened aren't very wear-resistant, i.e., they don't contain heavy amounts of hard carbides, it doesn't take a very coarse diamond grit to keep those in shape, or even repair some relatively heavy edge damage. A Coarse or XC diamond can leave edges on such steels very ragged, and will remove more metal than is necessary. Hence the recommendation to bias the choice toward the finer end of the grit scale.

The one caveat that might influence choosing a coarser grit, is if any heavy grinding needs to be done on larger/thicker blades, like big, heavy fixed blades. Overall, a larger stone in a Coarse/Fine grit (or even XC), would handle that work more efficiently, cutting grinding time down by as much as 3X - 4X. But, if the knives are small/medium-sized, and the upkeep doesn't involve heavy profiling or complete regrinding of bevels, then a pocket-sized Fine/EF diamond (600-1200) should be enough, and can leave great working edges as well.

ALL diamond hones should be used with a lighter touch than most would be accustomed to using on other stones. If used properly, a diamond hone will last a couple decades or longer; especially if it's just a maintenance hone for use on simpler steels.
 
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