Good way to end stitching cleanly?

Daniel Fairly Knives

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Is there a clean way to end stitching, most tutorials suggest tying and melting the ends or just looping back then melting them into place.

My wife is making leather wallets and she ties and then melts the ends, it works well but leaves a bump on the place where the stitching ends. I am worried that the bump will eventually shear off from wear leaving thread that will unravel.

Any ideas? Thanks in advance!
 
Great question.

I have been squishing my knot as flat as possible with a flat head screwdriver while its still hot from melting it. Sometimes I heat it up a second time and squeeze it with needle nose so its the same width as the stitching then squish flat some more.

It looks better that way but I'm still hoping to come up with something better.

Any tips on improving this would be very appreciated.:thumbup:
 
Back stitch two, pull tight, then snip off the thread at the surface.
Just like Uncle Al (Stohlman) taught us.
I know a lot of people can't wrap their mind around the fact that the stitching will stay put, but they will.
 
Do exactly as Rayban said, and if you are still a little bit unsure, then just before you pull that last stitch really tight put a very tiny dot of Elmer's white glue on the thread and let it ride into the hole as you pull the thread very tight. That will still be there when hell freezes over.

Paul
 
"Do exactly as Rayban said, and if you are still a little bit unsure, then just before you pull that last stitch really tight put a very tiny dot of Elmer's white glue on the thread and let it ride into the hole as you pull the thread very tight. That will still be there when hell freezes over."
^This.^
 
Back stitch two, pull tight, then snip off the thread at the surface.
Just like Uncle Al (Stohlman) taught us.
I know a lot of people can't wrap their mind around the fact that the stitching will stay put, but they will.

Thanks! I really appreciate the help!

Do exactly as Rayban said, and if you are still a little bit unsure, then just before you pull that last stitch really tight put a very tiny dot of Elmer's white glue on the thread and let it ride into the hole as you pull the thread very tight. That will still be there when hell freezes over.

Paul

Thanks Paul! That is all the information I need. :D
 
What I do is cut the thread close to the surface and then melt it with a soldering iron. With a little practice you can melt the ends so it hardly looks any different from the rest of the stitches.
 
Paul, it seems like I am riding your coat tails today - but thanks for this one too. I have always backstitched (as I learned from Stohlman's book and Chuck's videos) but never used the white glue. I have had one stitch in my time that worked its way out - and I wager the Elmer's would have stopped this.

TF
 
I put the knot down in the hole... a surgeon's knot. After pulling the knot tight using both strands, put tension on only one side and snip/cut as close to the leather as possible (I use a blade rather than scissors to get super close). Then tension the remaining strand and repeat. If the thread is visible, you can use an awl or embroidery needle to push it into the hole gently (but it's rarely needed).
 
Back stitch two, pull tight, then snip off the thread at the surface.
Just like Uncle Al (Stohlman) taught us.
I know a lot of people can't wrap their mind around the fact that the stitching will stay put, but they will.

I've done it this way for years on my sheaths and hunting pouches, but I would also melt down the sinew just a touch causing it to recede just beneath the surface of the leather. I have yet to have anything become unstitched with this method.
 
I have made a few belts (10+) and a few sheaths so I have limited experience.

But I have followed the Stohlman (and others) instruction on backstitching two or three stitches and then cutting the threads. Using one of the needles I push down the ends back into the hole. My first belt is about three years old, used daily and none of the stitches has come loose (6 SPI, bridle stitching that runs in the direction of the belt).

I do not know how nylon thread behaves, I have only used Linen (waxed) and in comparison the nylon might be a bit slick so it might be a problem.

/C.
 
I do not know how nylon thread behaves, I have only used Linen (waxed) and in comparison the nylon might be a bit slick so it might be a problem.

/C.

They actually sell a "burner" to burn down the ends of machine stitching (usually nylon or poly)...it forms a bead at the end that you just mash down to the surface....I just use a Bic.
 
My wife Sara says thanks very much everyone!

The tips you guys gave really helped out a lot, here is a sheath she just finished up.

077-1.jpg


075-7.jpg
 
Congrats Sara! That looks very good! :D
 
Back stitch two, pull tight, then snip off the thread at the surface.
Just like Uncle Al (Stohlman) taught us.
I know a lot of people can't wrap their mind around the fact that the stitching will stay put, but they will.

This. It is how the pros do it. I have sheaths 25+ years old with this stitching method that are still nice and tight.

I make my own sheaths, and this is the same method I use.

I will have to add the tiny dab of Elmers on the last pull through.
 
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