Good whittler

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yjackets07

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Sep 6, 2014
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Looking for a good comfortable multi blade whittler. I've seen a few but can't remember what they were as I'm not deep into traditionals. I'd like something with a good tough steel like D2 but I wouldn't dismiss a stainless either. I carve a bit of what I consider a medium hard wood as I don't like buying wood offline and there aren't many local sources of basswood or good pine. I know this is probably beaten to death but the search function is working right on my mobile
 
yjackets07 said:
Looking for a good comfortable multi blade whittler. I've seen a few but can't remember what they were as I'm not deep into traditionals. I'd like something with a good tough steel like D2 but I wouldn't dismiss a stainless either. I carve a bit of what I consider a medium hard wood as I don't like buying wood offline and there aren't many local sources of basswood or good pine. I know this is probably beaten to death but the search function is working right on my mobile
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There have been a few threads out there that come to mind. For D2 I would look at queen. I think in the thread below even a good starter wood is mentioned.

Good luck with the hunt.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...-what-s-your-go-to-GEC-knife-for-this-purpose
 
You used the word comfortable, that is something you need to decide. I read the thread which talks about GEC. I will be ordering one to see why so many people like them. I have been seriously carving / whittling since I retired almost 10 years ago. I have Case, Schatt & Morgan, Queen, Buck (pre China old USA made), Marbles( MI made), Bulldog, ETC multiplied knives I use to whittle. Currently, my favorite is the Case Seahorse whittler ( I have three just in case something happens to the one I carry they went out of production then came back) SS main blade purpose sharpened. The knife feels good in my hand, I have lots of control, the blade is not too long, I can strop it back to scary sharp if need be. For small detail I use a Marbles small wharncliffe ATS-34 multi bladed knife, this is a Gladestone, MI product, Mables are now made in China don't bother with them. Any knife with good steel will work to get you started, you may have several already. The secret is in the blade shape and how it is sharpened. No production knife (other than dedicated carving knives from established companies (Helvie, Cape Forge, North Bay Forge to name a few) comes with an edge I care to use, they are sharp, but not profiled right IMO. Flat ground seems to work best for me, but most are too thick and require a lot of time to hone them to a useable edge. I don't use anything but stones (diamond, ceramic, natural), I do not like hollow ground blades they bite too much. One of my favorite starter knives is the old Buck 301 - 70's vintage. It was made by Camillus for Buck - I do not know the steel, but they can be sharped to a wicked edge (do require some attention to stay extra sharp - strop) but they are available used at gun shows and on ebay since there were thousands produced. I keep several around and when people or kids that I know who seriously what to start carving I will give them one along with some basswood. I'm sorry if I am rambling, but as I was told a long time ago, it is not the knife that makes the carver, it is the desire to carve and the ability to get the edge sharp. Have fun and start carving.
 
I've been carving with my rat 1 and opinel 10 but I find them just too big and awkward in hand for the size of wood I use. My favorite knife I had was an old Imperial I found at a junkyard I used to work at. The owner found it in a car and threw it in a desk drawer. It was rusted solid. A little BG Inforce and steel wool and it was looking great and had a great patina. The main blade was about perfect after I thinned the blade a bit and the other blades I found very useful. The original owner of the knife had modified them greatly and sadly I do not have any pictures of the kmife or the knife it's self. I'd love a good dedicated carving pocket knife. Hard, thinner blades that can maintain a keen edge. I have bigger hands so the handle would be better if it were thicker. I've been thinking of getting a UHC Bearclaw from I believe is Roselli knives. I'd also love a good wharncliffe blade solely for the fine sharp tip for smaller detailed cuts
 
If I remember correctly, Boker makes a particularly fine congress with blades designed by a famous would carver. Somebody or other who has posted here and carves a lot has one and said it was dinkum for carving.

I don't happen to carve, but if I did, I likely would not use D2. With its large carbides, it would not be the best alloy for carving. For carving most folks want a blade steel that maintains a fine smooth edge. Most of the folks who carve around here prefer carbon steel or a simple stainless, something with out carbides. You can get a very fine edge with a carbide containing alloy, but it soon turns gritty as it wears.

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Here's how they describe it on the Boker website:
Pocket knife designed by a carver, for carvers. Special blade configuration Congress knife for the carver in the family. Carbon steel sheepfoot, pen, coping and spey blades with rosewood handle. Closed length: 3 3/4".
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Hi,

I suggest the Mora laminated fixed blade carving knives
At about $20 each you have very comfortable carving knives that hold an amazing edge
 
I saw an Early Reserve at Collector Knives for a GEC #38 Whittler. It's 1095, so not stainless, but it looks pretty nice.
 
Don't worry much about the steel. Your sharpening ability will be much more important than any super-ultra-mega-modern powder steel. Plain old 1096 or 420ss will be fine.

Even hard woods, like maple & oak, are not particularly abrasive.

Look for something comfortable in hand and with 2 or 3 blades. 1 for roughing big chips away, and another 1 or 2 for small detail work. Comfort is most important though, and only you can answer that.

My favorites are:

Case Seahorse Whittler (main blade is a little too thick though)
Old Boker Congress (carbon steel, super thin, hones to razor sharp)
Oar Carver (Modified Queen Canoe)
Flexcut fixed blade (by far the BEST for carving only)
Mora carver (kind of thick...)

Also, any of the Whittler patterns are called that for a reason, so keep them in mind as well.
 
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