got me a double cut bead blast assault shaker :D

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Jun 22, 2003
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recieved a nice little item in the mail today (thank you jerry and crew :) ) wich came 5 days earlier then i expected (got here in 2 days :D); a 3/16th double cut bead blast assault shaker with a (or as near to as i ever want to get) zero edge style edge.

i wish it was 1/4, or 5/16, or even 3/8th, but its still a very handey little blade :) i feel safer with the thought of using this as a prybar then i do with useing a 1/4 blade of different steele and origin. (not that i want to use this as a prybar
:rolleyes: )

fit and finish are perfect :) AND THE EDGE!!! wow... soooo little metal behind that edge... the thing coul be rounded off, and still be sharp.

man.... its 5:30 in the morning... and im kinda delerious from sharpening...... sooooo.... im just going to put up picks and say that this is one awesome little knife...

great ergonomics, secure grip for how small it is, very, very, very sharp edge geometry.


oh ya... the sharpening.... i removed the factory edge... because the factory edge is weeeeird..... its something like 30 degree's (60 included), maybe a little lower (35), so its not really sharp by angle standards, but thats not the part that always throws me off with the factory edges, the thing that throws me is that i can draw it across my hand, making it turn white, without cutting myself.

ive taken a few shots of the factorey edge.... cant really give a reason why.... white the edge looks rough, its a high high polish, especially along the initial cutting edge, so things just slip across it. i couldnt cut anything with the first cutting surface of my pd striaght from factory....

(please keep in mind that these shots are of an assault shaker, wich is a fiarly small knife to beggin with, so these macro shots are really blowing it up - while it may look like a corregated fence, its not as large as it appears)
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on this assault shaker, all that is over shadowed by the edge geometry, and how short the cutting surface is on most of it. theres so little metal behind the edge, that you dont really get a feeling of it being 35 degree's, like you do with the pd. it shaves hair straight out of box, and is good slicer, but again, the edge is all polishy...


SO. out comes the old apex, sand paper, and sanders sponge.

i bring most of my busse's down to a 24 degree primary, and a 21 secondary (and a 17 (tertiary?) when i want a really nice edge curve), and then sand it down to a curve. i tend to leave it at about 180, with a once over with 320 grit, to make it look nice.

all i can say is... im more careful with this knife now then any of my other knives ive ever owned. not only is there basically no metal behind the edge that isnt part of the cutting edges angle, but its highly aggressive. at 100, i cant even play around with running it across flesh, and it has a snaggier feeling, so i put it to 180/320 so i can still get the benifits of push cutting with it.

the 1/4 rat shaker is thicker behind the edge of my assault shaker, but you only notice it so much, do to the rat shaker haveing a prettty wide 24/21/17 edge curve on it.

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the rat shaker was 70$, but were only available at blaewest.

the regular black rat shakers were available at blade east for 50$ (a serious steal...)

and the assault shakers are normally 117$. the double cut bead blast finish is 35$ extra (so 152$), but i really only got it because it was the assault shaker that was avialable :) and couldnt be any more happy with it :D (unless it was 50+% thicker :D:D:D)

im one of those guys who when i want a specific knife, will pay almost anything to get it as quickly as possible, and for the most part the market keeps the price reasonable.

and i got to get this straight from busse combat, wich is always a nice plus :)


i sure do wish i had snagged one of the (combat 4/satin jack?) variants that were at the show... (as i look at the double edged steel heart on badmojo in complete awe and wonderment...)
 
Originally posted by SethMurdoc

SO. out comes the old apex, sand paper, and sanders sponge.

i bring most of my busse's down to a 24 degree primary, and a 21 secondary (and a 17 (tertiary?) when i want a really nice edge curve), and then sand it down to a curve. i tend to leave it at about 180, with a once over with 320 grit, to make it look nice.

all i can say is... im more careful with this knife now then any of my other knives ive ever owned. not only is there basically no metal behind the edge that isnt part of the cutting edges angle, but its highly aggressive. at 100, i cant even play around with running it across flesh, and it has a snaggier feeling, so i put it to 180/320 so i can still get the benifits of push cutting with it.

the 1/4 rat shaker is thicker behind the edge of my assault shaker, but you only notice it so much, do to the rat shaker haveing a prettty wide 24/21/17 edge curve on it.

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Damm, you just said a whole bunch of stuff of which I understood donut...:confused: I really need to take a class in sharpening so I can understand what the frig u just said...Awesom pics by the way...Sweet little knife:D
 
I wonder why the bead blasted finish is extra? They must have to finish the steel down to a finer grit for the bead blast. You can probably get away with a rougher finish under that powder coat. I think I just answered my own question.
 
PK! ...can you send me an email bud? I need to discuss something with you...;)
 
the bead blast is a hand finished knife, hence the extra money

you are right that the unground portions of the busse knives that are coated are pretty rough, partially because they dont need to look pretty, but also because a rougher finish allows for the coating to grip better on the surface of the steele (or so goes my understanding)


as to the sharpening stuff, i got my 24 degree mark from gators site :)

heres a picture that kinda describes it... i did this on illustrator at 3:45am, so it may be crap...

i use an edge pro apex sharpener, wich allows me to set the angle that i want to sharpen at.

for sanding, i just use a sanders sponge with sand paper on top, and sharpen like a normal stone. i use 100 grit first, and then robe the edge over 220 or 320 grit sand paper to smooth it out a little, because a 100 grit sand papered edge is pretty darn rough and snaggy....


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