Got me a SERE 2000!

Joined
Apr 12, 2000
Messages
2,116
Alright, I had to pick one of these up after so many glowing reviews. I'll admit, it's a solid and tough looking knife. However, upon closer inspection of this heavy duty liner lock I've heard about, I began to wonder how heavy duty it really is. Sure, it looks thicker than most, but when I looked inside I noticed it has a hole cut out in it! I drew a rough sketch to demonstrate. Around the area where the hole is the liner is also notched out to let it bend in I guess. So around this area there isn't a whole lot of metal. In fact I'd say there is less metal at the point than in just about all liner locks I've seen. So does this mean this section could buckle? The red areas in the image are the thin parts of the liner in question.

sere2000.gif
 
I always noticed the relieved area along with the cutout. I assume it was done to get the needed "bend" in the liner for it to spring. The SERE 2000 has one of the stiffer liner locks in prodution liner locks I've seen. With the steel liners being hardened it would probably take a good bit of stress to buckle the liner. Btw Wade, how is the lockup? Read stories about lock slippage but never had any problem with the ones I've owned.
 
I'm probably just being picky, but I figured it would make for some interesting debate. :) The lock up is very solid. I haven't smacked the spine of the blade with anything other than my hand. I might try a little wack with a rubber mallet to see what happens. :) Good to know about the liner being hardend. It's probably fine. :)
 
No worries about the Sere 2k....

I've used my knife on my construction site with no problem at all! It's right up there with my Spydie Police, Buck/Strider SP and BM 750. Thrown lots of abuses on them and they hold up very well.

Last night, I've done up the Sere free hand on my Sharp-maker and now it's popping hair off without touching skin!

The liner holds on well and has not fail even after I slam it against some 2x4 I've got on site. However, the blade will seem to move a little if you twist it. You've got to watch out for that.

It's a good buy. Congrats!
 
Thanks Glockman! :)

Sean, what edge angle did you use on the Sharpmaker to get it poppin' hairs above your arm? Do you need thick arm hair to do this? :) I just got the ultra fine rods to try. :)
 
I'm hoping to join the SERE club after christmas, as i have been thinking about getting one of these for a while for my workhorse knife. I'm not worried about the cut out bit on the liner, as as other leaf locks have that hollowed out part to allow the spring.
The MT SOCOM is one such knife and the lock is stiff to disengage.

:)
 
I'm chinese so we're not known to have thick arm hair... Just fine ones....

I've always prefer sharpening free-hand without any specific guide for angles. Don't actually know what angles my blades are at... Must be some mystical chinese-oriental thingee:D

I sort of go with the flow and use the finger nail test. As I don't have a strop (sp?) I usually finish with a very light stroke on the fine stone at a steeper angle. Usually that will give my an extremely hair popping edge....

However, that will also depend on the blade material. I can achieve extreme sharpness on my BM, Buck/Strider, Spydie and Al Mar folders but can never go beyond very sharp on my CRKT and SOG folders... Strange:confused:

Sean
 
WadeF,

Congratulations on your holiday score! I hope that the other SERE users can put your mind to rest.

For hair popping with the Sharpmaker (I can pop hair using one, but can't do the tree-top thingy yet), either angle can be used, though establishing a bevel with the 30-degree setting and then placing a final edge with 40-degree setting makes for an edge that is sharp and durable. In any event, to pop fine hair, start with the corners of the brown rods and make several alternating strokes. Assuming that the factory edge isn't too thick for the setting you've chosen, you should be able to get a hair popping edge at that setting. Assuming that you, like everyone else, chose the 30-degree setting, try several more strokes with the Sharpmaker's brown rods and it will happen.

But you're not done yet!

That was just step 1. Step 2 is using less overall strokes on the brown flats. Step 3 is using slightly less strokes on the white corners. Step 4,using a similar number of strokes on the white flats. Step 5, using a similar number of strokes on the UF corners, but with less pressure. Step 6, using barely any pressure at all, often less than the weight of the blade, on the UF corners. At step 6, slow, gentle, and steady are the key.

Step 1 is critical. Without the edge being hair-popping sharp at that step (If I can do it with M2, you can do it easier with M2 and easier still with VG-10), or maybe as late as step 2, you'll just be smearing the metal into your perfect edge. Works fine, but tends to unsmear itself and generally be a weak, non-lasting edge.

The faster alternate, which I rarely try, is to use either the diamond rods or rods coating with coarse sandpaper at the 30 degree angle, raise a burr on one side, scrape it off and raise a burr on the other side, and then use the UF hones at the 40-degree setting. Did something similar once with the EdgePro and an 806D2 (sharpened a main bevel with the EdgePro and immediately microbevelled the edge with the Sharpmaker for a quick-and-dirty means of razor sharpness), and the results were nice. Maybe it'll suit your needs or, at least, take a lot of time off of your sharpening.

Another time saver is to match the angle with an EdgePro and just go to town with that wondrous device.

Sean Hawkins,

Great signature line. Which Extrema Ratio are you saving for?
 
thombrogan: This will be OT but I'm thinking of a Fulcrum IID but would prefer a larger blade. I don't like serrations and the Nemesis's blade looks funny to me (personal opinion!). If only they offer the MPC in plain edge! I'll buy that in a flash!!!
 
Sean,

LOLROF....... :)

I'm Chinese, too -- although my father's side is decidedly hairy (northern Chinese descent), I took after both my father (the exception in the family) and the rest of my mother's side (southern Chinese ancestry), and am decidedly NOT hairy.

What few arm-hairs I have simply refuse to "pop," they're so soft that they literally bend even with the super-scary-sharp edges.

:)

Maybe if I knit my armhairs together, I could produce a slash-proof glove/suit?

:)

Allen
aka DumboRAT
 
Sean,

Your preferences for ER's match mine and yet I ended up buying and thoroughly enjoying the Nemesis anyways. My guess is that the Fulcrum II D, despite its diminutive stature, will make you plenty happy if you can't get over the partial serrations of the MPC (I can't either).

Allen,

ROTFL! That's so creepy it's funny!

We now return you to WadeF's post concerning his glee and concerns regarding the Al Mar SERE 2000 Folder
 
Enough with the HAIR talk! You are making me gag!

Sere2000 lovers might also like the new Chinook II.

Collecter
 
Wade, If you ever grow tired of your SERE 2000, sell it to me so that I can have three.

SERE 2000 Fan Club Member #2.:D
 
Back
Top