got my 6!

Joined
Mar 22, 2009
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I Got my RC-6 btw guys from cumberland. I love it. Its a beast of a knife. realy hefty. I refer to it as the mini machete. I have carved a couple handrill sticks with it and have processed about 3 lbd of fatwood with it. It chops preaty well. The micarta is awesome, and I didnt know it shed oil! the sheat is 2 pieced. I was today carrying on my belt with the molle locks and that seems find for me. It came shaving sharp, and after my hacking it still had just about the same edge. I touched it up on a lansky fine stone. My only question about this knife is I wanted to know if the edge is convexed. Does Anyone know a local place to buy stones? Would hunting shops carry them? I only want A small one wich I will put in my pouch that i lashed on the front of the sheath. Do you guys know some easy bushcrafting things to do with this knife?My only kinda dislike on the sheah is the jimping u press to pull the knife out. I will fix that with a piece of rubber. (:

PS: pics to come soon.
 
Welcome to the RAT pack.

No, the edge is not convex, it is a standard beveled edge. I've seen a few guys now that have had the edges of their RATs convexed with good results.
I prefer a standard beveled edge for ease of resharpening when out in the bush.

As for fun, bushcrafty projects, my personal favorite ids trap building. You can never practice enough and the materials are easy to come by.
 
Welcome to RAT Cutlery ! ! The RC6 is a great knife.....couple it with an Izula and you 'd have a great Dynamic Duo......Nope, the edge is not convex, Just a plain ole' standard beveled edge...
 
Shotgunner, what kind of traps? I too enjoy practicing bushcraft techniques, and I am always hungry for more knowledge. Thanks as always!!
 
Figure four, snare, arabica bird trap, rock fall, pitch hole.

Google, or better yet youtube. Both have tons of info.

Tom Browns survival book has some really complicated examples in it if you can source a copy.
 
Figure_Four.jpg


One of the most useful as well as the most ancient inventions in the way of traps is the common Figure Four Trap, which forms the subject of our next illustration. It is a very ingenious contrivance, and the mechanism, consists merely of three sticks. It possesses great advantages in the fact that it may be used in a variety of ways, and a number of the machines may be carried by the young trapper with very little inconvenience. Our illustration shows the trap already set, only awaiting for a slight touch at the bait to bring the heavy stone to the ground. A box may be substituted for the stone, and the animal may thus be captured alive. The three sticks are represented separate at a. b. and c. Of course, there is no regular size for them, as this would greatly depend upon the purpose for which they are designed to be used. If for rabbits, the following proportions will answer very well. The sticks should all be square, and about half an inch in thickness. The bait-stick, (a) should be about nine or ten inches in length, one end being pointed and the other furnished with a notch, as indicated. The upright stick, (b) should be a little shorter, one end being whittled to a rather sharp edge. At about three or four inches from the other end, and on the side next to that whittled, a square notch should be cut. This should be about a third of an inch in depth and half an inch in width, being so cut as exactly to receive the bait-stick without holding it fast. The remaining stick (c) should have a length of about seven or eight inches, one end being whittled, as in the last, to an edge, and the other end furnished with a notch on the same side of the stick.

Figure_Four2.jpg


When these are finished, the trap may be set in the following manner: Place the upright stick, (b) with its pointed end uppermost. Rest the notch of the slanting stick, (c) on the summit of the upright stick, placing the stone upon its end, and holding the stick in position with the hand. By now hooking the notch in the bait-stick on the sharpened edge of the slanting stick and fitting it into the square notch in the upright, it may easily be made to catch and hold itself in position. The bait should always project beneath the stone. In case a box is used instead of a stone, the trap may be set either inside of it or beneath its edge. Where the ground is very soft, it would be well to rest the upright stick on a chip or small flat stone, as otherwise it is apt to sink into the earth by degrees and spring by itself.

When properly made, it is a very sure and sensitive trap, and the bait, generally an apple, or "nub" of corn is seldom more than touched when the stone falls.

Jacked from the Net...:D easy example to understand :thumbup:
 
:thumbup: Thanks TTD & Shotgunner you guys are always a huge help. You two rock!!
 
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Ok, so I know of of Arabica coffee beans and ojibwa bird snares, but I have to know, what is an arabica bird trap?

p.s. just used by RC-4 in part to rig up and snare a pesky ground squirrel in the back yard ripping up the flowers. twas a nice specimen whose fur will make some nice fuzzy nymphs for the the local trout and bluegill.

OK, I might have had the name wrong.......mabey........perhaps......


I think the guy in the video got it wrong though personally.:D

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9iR_3zWd0hA

Gentleman in the video is a regular over in the WSS forum, goes by the handle Pict. Very cool guy, christian missionary who splits his time between Brazil and the US teaching outdoor skills.
 
i tried the bird trap and its easy, but i would suggest using bamboo if possible. its much straighter. U have to keep tension on the sticks.
 
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