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- Jul 1, 2001
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I like it alot but the AFCK is alot smoother. The 710 is very tight will it ever loosen up. Or is mine just in need of some type of tweeking? Any one else have a real tight 710?
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Got my BM 710.
- Thread starter Bladeswinger
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- Jul 1, 2001
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I thought that screw would be filled with locktite correct? I am going to Militech 1 it right when I get home, I hope that helps. I have also noticed that the Axis lock is tighter than my AFCK. I hope this will start to fly as quick as my AFCK.
In my experience, BM has not Loctited the pivot screws. You should be able to move it. If not, try applying a small-wattage soldering iron (30-40 watts) to the pivot screw, and any loctite will loosen up quickly. Good luck. Let us know your reactions.
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2000
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- 981
It's too tight?
Hmmm, that's totally uncharacteristic compared to mine. Mine was smooth right out of the box with no blade play. The action should feel like a good quality lockback but lighter (ie a bit of springy resistance as if the tang was riding on a ball bearing).
My 710 is so smooth it has shocked people opening the blade. One guy, who has some nifty knives himself including MOD and Spydercos, was shocked and commented, "Was it this smooth when you first got it?" In fact, with the Axis lock pulled back, the blade should plop out like a gravity knife.
Try a drop of 3-in-1.
It's also possible that some loctite spilled on the pivot screw during manufacturing in which case it will loosen up in a short time. Otherwise, return it to the factory if you don't want to violate BM's anal retentive warranty, or just unloosen it yourself. You might want to get some loctite (or comparable fastener adhesive) at your local hardware/plumbing store so the pivot screw doesn't keep loosening.
Hmmm, that's totally uncharacteristic compared to mine. Mine was smooth right out of the box with no blade play. The action should feel like a good quality lockback but lighter (ie a bit of springy resistance as if the tang was riding on a ball bearing).
My 710 is so smooth it has shocked people opening the blade. One guy, who has some nifty knives himself including MOD and Spydercos, was shocked and commented, "Was it this smooth when you first got it?" In fact, with the Axis lock pulled back, the blade should plop out like a gravity knife.
Try a drop of 3-in-1.
It's also possible that some loctite spilled on the pivot screw during manufacturing in which case it will loosen up in a short time. Otherwise, return it to the factory if you don't want to violate BM's anal retentive warranty, or just unloosen it yourself. You might want to get some loctite (or comparable fastener adhesive) at your local hardware/plumbing store so the pivot screw doesn't keep loosening.
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- Jul 1, 2001
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- 1,297
I think I'll lube it when I get home and give it a few days and see if I notice any difference. If no change I will send it to BM for some tweeking, I don't want to mess up the warranty! I don't know maybe I got a bad one.
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2000
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- 981
Okay, now I'm concerned for you guys because how you describe your knife is not at all like mine. I've brought my 710 out and it's here with me as I write this.
First, it is a circa 2000 model with ATS-34 (I believe BM uses 154CM now).
Second, it is still "as new" since I don't use it. It still has the original factory edge (that's not saying much! Sorry BM).
Third, it has not been modified or tweaked except for the occasional drop of oil on the pivot and lock, and a light coat of oil on the blade.
Okay, here's the test. If I hold the knife parallel to the ground and pull the lock back, the blade falls out via gravity and its own weight just shy of 90 degrees. You shouldn't have to nudge or bounce your wrist to get the blade to pivot out. If your 710's blade doesn't drop down, then the tightness in with the pivot screw. By the way, there is absolutely no blade play up and down, nor laterally.
If it's not the pivot screws, perhaps Benchmade is using stiffer Omega springs.
First, it is a circa 2000 model with ATS-34 (I believe BM uses 154CM now).
Second, it is still "as new" since I don't use it. It still has the original factory edge (that's not saying much! Sorry BM).
Third, it has not been modified or tweaked except for the occasional drop of oil on the pivot and lock, and a light coat of oil on the blade.
Okay, here's the test. If I hold the knife parallel to the ground and pull the lock back, the blade falls out via gravity and its own weight just shy of 90 degrees. You shouldn't have to nudge or bounce your wrist to get the blade to pivot out. If your 710's blade doesn't drop down, then the tightness in with the pivot screw. By the way, there is absolutely no blade play up and down, nor laterally.
If it's not the pivot screws, perhaps Benchmade is using stiffer Omega springs.
- Joined
- Aug 25, 2001
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- 843
I have always adjusted my new Benchmade knives to my liking with the pivot screw. I just use a Torx size T9 (which I got at Sears). I have never encountered any difficulty turning the screw that would lead me to think they use thread adhesive. I have not had any problems with the screw changing position but if I did I would use a drop of LocTite blue on the threads.
- Joined
- Jul 7, 2002
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- 426
My 710 (plain edge 154cm BT coated) was also stiff, especially in comparison with my SOG PE and new BM921. After breaking it in it is a smooth knife but still doesnt match those other 2. When I recived my 921 I immeadiatley noted it was 5,737,841 times smoother than my 710 was out of the box. Then I recall something I had read once on the Benchmade forums. That Benchmade 2 different kinda washers between thier blades and liners; nylon washers and bronze ones. So I checked the washers and the 921 had metalic brown ones and the 710 has black ones. So I thought maybe that had something to do with the mystery one the stiff 710. Anyone have a 710 with bronze washers?
I have a recent 710, satin finish, plain edge, with bronze bushings. It is as smooth as silk. I think BM is moving to bronze bushings on all the upper-priced knives. I'll admit to a bias in favor of bronze, but I know many top custom makers use synthetic bushings (teflon, nylatron, etc.). I'm not sure if my bias is rooted in sound science/engineering, or is just a bias. Might be a good topic for a separate thread.