got my BM 806 D2 today!

Joined
Mar 3, 2003
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I looked around the blade forum and the enthusiasm here for the 806D2 persuaded me to get it. For $108 (no tax, with shipping). Good price I feel. I want to thank all for sharing their experience.

The handle is good. That curve at the end does feel good, but not incredible. I like its shape for the ease to apply force in a thrust. I have small hands, it seems. The 3.9" blade model is a bit big. Not terrible. The liner plus plastic in the handle makes for a solid handle and no blade play. This is one solid knife.

The blade is big (3.9"). The way I like it. It has good mass that wrist flick is easy. I find I like to open the folder with the thumb hole to start, then a light flick finishes the job.

One problem though, the release knob on the AXIS lock seems to stick. I suspect the knife may have sat around a counter for a while because the joint and the release have some gunk/grease. The result is that the knife will get stuck in the open mode once every half dozen open/closes or so. I'd have to work the knob loose, or pry it from inside the handle to close the folder.

Does anyone think this is an issue worthy of a trip to BM? shipping and insurance cost money and time. anyone else have this problem?
 
Hello, Ian! If you hold the axis lock button back and flick it open, sometimes the blade locks "hard". That is, inertia carries the blade just a bit further than it would normally go if you opened it using the thumb hole (as Benchmade intended.) Mine has been a bit hard to open fater a few lock-button flicks, until I got down the "feel" to use just enough "flick" to open it without it hard-locking. Once the blade opening gets looser, it takes very little to flick it open. The opening smoothens up with opening and closing. You can also loosen the bolt, but I just let mine "work" itself in. You can test by holding the knife hoizontally with the blade facing the floor. Hold back the button and if the blade "falls out" on it's own, you need very little wrist flick to make the blade lock. Generally, I flick just enough to let the blade's own weight carry it to the end of the travel without additional force from my hand driving it more than it's own weight. This will keep it from hard-locking. Also, release the lock button just as soon as the blade begins it's travel. You have a fine knife there, Ian.
 
Also, if you get the "brownie pop" down pat, it should not hard-lock after doing that. The nice thing about the curve of the handle is that you can actually rest the curve in the palm of your hand with your index finger in the finger cutout and thumb along the top of the handle/spine. This adds an inch or more to your "reach", though practice is needed to attain good control doing this. Also, holding the knife "normally", the round "butt" of the handle protrudes from the back of your closed hand and presents itself as a semi-pommel to deliver blows with. There are so many variations on holding and opening this knife, I think it's probably one of the most versatile folders I've ever seen. This knife became my every day carry the exact second I got it out of the box from New Graham. I learn "new" methods of opening it or variations every week I handle it. Once it loosens up, you can even open it most of the way by holding the knife horizontally with the blade facing the ground and holding the button back. This will release the blade and it will fall of its own accord to a point where the slightest flick locks the blade. A great "behind-the-back" concealed open after secreting the knife behind your back. No one sees you ready the knife.
 
Just run it under hot water to get the gunk out of the lock area, flush it out with WD-40, then apply your favorite Teflon-based lubricant. Then sit back and cycle the thing until the sticking is gone. If the sticking is from opening the knife force-fully, the cycling will also take care of most of it; however, if you open it too hard, it will stick to some extent.
 
Thank you. I'll try cleaning the joint and release.

How goes, Kevan? I'm carrying two knives now. Incase one hand is busy and cant reach. I love the big folder. It's sharp, has mass on the blade. I nicked myself a couple times just having the blade fall onto my knuckles while pressing the release button.

I ordered my knife from Ultimate Outdoors. Did not get a box of bandaid with my order like I read somewhere. Coulda used it. :D the blade is heavy and sharp. one light touch and it breaks the skin. :cool:
 
The only weapons I clean with hot water are muzzleloaders. On a folder, there are too many places water can hide. While WD-40 does "push" water out, it cannot be counted on to do so all the inside. I don't totally agree with lubing a folding knife you carry in a pocket. Lube attracts lint. Lint gums up actions. It's harder to clean oil-soaked lint out than just plain lint. Oil should be applied, if at all, in a drop that a microbe could barely take a bath in.

Carrying two knives is a very good idea. Plus, it helps n situations where you have two really great knives you want to carry and don't want to have to choose between them. :)
 
When there's "gunk" in the pivot area from the factory, the hot water option seems easiest. After, it can always be blown out by compressed air or WD-40, then dried out with a hair dryer to ensure that no water remains. All this of course is just for the initial clean-out; for regular maintenance usually compressed air or WD-40 works fine to blow out debris from the pivot area.

Teflon-based dry lubricants don't really attract much lint at all IMO especially compared to oil, and improve the "smoothness" of the action greatly compared to a knife without, especially with AXIS-lockers when you want to flick it open by pulling back on the locking bar.
 
I think the 806D2 is the next purchase for me, but now I have to decide if I want the plain edge, or the combo edge. I have the old AST-34 liner lock version with a combo edge already and it is nice to have those teeth there. Althought it would be fun to sharpen up that D2 all the way. What did you guys choose?
 
Benchmade recommends Milli-tec as the lube. They used to recommend triflo.
 
its up to BM to recommend a lube. but it's up to us to find something that works. compressed air sounds like a good thing to have on standby.

I chose plain edge because I want to make sure I can sharpen the D2 blade. serrated edge is hard enough to sharpen without a hard material.
 
WD-40:

I've heard that it leaves a fine laquer-type finish which builds up and hardens over time. not something you want in a presicion folding knife locking mechanism, though it's fine for a garden shovel.

Edges:

PLAIN!!! I've had an AFCK in plain and combo and plainis THE way to go! There's nothing I can't cut with that screaming sharp D2 plain edge, but there's plenty of times that the combo serrations get in the wayof a good clean cut. If you feel you need serrations, get a fully serrated knife to use as a utility (spyderco Rescue or similar)

-John
 
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