Got my Fallkniven F1 today, very excited!

S

SkaerE

Joined
Sep 9, 2001
Messages
428
its a much bigger knife than i thought it would be.

well, stouter at least.

i dig it. just made a kydex sheath for it (ordered it with the open top leather one) BIG fan (in case i didnt make that clear)

now i just need to take it out and use it, its gonna accompany my HI 16.5'' WWII khukri.

:D

no question here, just wanted to share. i'll post some pictures tomorrow. :p
 
You will love using this knife, and will come to rely on it's strength and sharpness. I would not want to be without mine. Good choice.

Ready
 
My favorite for "soupy" weather backpacking and one of the standards. (In case it doesn't come with the "instructions," the little notch is said to be for breaking wire.)
 
It looks similar to the CS Master Hunter. I wish I could handle the F1 myself. Does the sharp spine hurt your thumb when you use the knife? Do you think you can drive the point into wood without damaging the back end of the handle?

Thanks!
 
Craig_PHX said:
It looks similar to the CS Master Hunter. I wish I could handle the F1 myself. Does the sharp spine hurt your thumb when you use the knife? Do you think you can drive the point into wood without damaging the back end of the handle?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

I have not had a problem with the sharp spine, in fact it is a plus in my opinion, as it throws a huge amount of sparks off a Ferro rod.

You could pound the end of the F1 pretty hard with wood, before messing up the handle. If your wood is soft it might dig into the wood and then it could hurt the handle a bit, but it is a really tough handle. I love the grip as it is 'sticky' enough, yet very tough and almost hard.

Ready
 
I have a stainless CS Master Hunter , an excellent knife , but now I have an S-1 ! Trying it on everything ,opening boxes , cutting up chickens , cutting brush etc . VG-10 is really nice !
 
Craig_PHX said:
It looks similar to the CS Master Hunter. I wish I could handle the F1 myself. Does the sharp spine hurt your thumb when you use the knife? Do you think you can drive the point into wood without damaging the back end of the handle?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

You can hit the handle with a wooden baton as hard as you can.
I brought down a tree with the method Peter Hjörtberger told: Drive the point into the wood, weaken the wood this way, then it will be easy to break down.
I nailed my F1 into a somewhat hard, dead beech tree, that was about 15-20cm diameter. I then batoned the knife left and right to loosen it in the wood and then rotate it out from the tree. Then repeat. The knife and the handle remained intact. I love this knife.

http://www.survival.hu/mambo/images/zoom/portaltali10/img_8754.jpg

http://www.survival.hu/mambo/images/zoom/portaltali10/img_8755.jpg
 
Amiga,

Oh wait! I remember that there was a change in the F1. One has the spine sticking out the end of the handle and the other does not. Is yours the new or old model? I have lusted after an Fallkniven F1 for years, but I have never seen one in person. I hate to buy expensive things, sight unseen. Just one unpleasant feature can make a thing undesirable.

Great pictures! I think if I hammered my knife into a tree like that I would never get it back out!

Thanks!
 
amiga said:
I then batoned the knife left and right to loosen it in the wood and then rotate it out from the tree. Then repeat. The knife and the handle remained intact. I love this knife.
Click to expand...

How did the handle hold up to being battoned to loosen the blade?
 
SkaerE, the F1 is a nice, practical looking blade. If I didn't already have a CS SRK I would look at one of those. If I had had the choice when I was buying the SRK years ago I would probably have chosen the F1.

Nice knife. Enjoy.
 
I had a CS SRK. I gave it away. It seemed clumsy to use. I didn't like the long choil. It seemed to keep my hand too far from the cutting part of the blade. Maybe I should have tried putting my first finger on the choil and using it that way. I have a CS Master Hunter in Carbon V. It is a good knife! I just wish the blade had less taper toward the tip. I currently use a modified CS True Flight Thrower with heavy duty boot laces on the handle as my survival knife. It is also make in Carbon V steel. It the proverbial sharpened pry-bar. However, for a pry-bar it is very sharp. Did I mention that Cold Steel comes to Phoenix once a year for a gun show. They have their seconds on sale with screaming deals.
 
neat images - good line. i've been thinking of a S1 or A1 instead of an F1. the A2 looks rather huge. i'm mostly waiting to see if i can find one used. i'm all about the bargains, but i'm gathering it's one of those things people get, and don't tend to give up (like beckers, rare to see used, unlike others).

i have a CS MH in carbon V as a second - it was $25! it's unkillable. love it.

lately, i've been beating up some of the ontario line (TAK and RTAK). man. they really take it. while the TAK is thick like the CS-MH, and presumably the whole S1/A1/F1 line... it can really cut for something so stout. the RTAK is actually very thin, but i can baton that through 8" of seasoned hemlock no problem (it's very dense stuff). unlike the CS-MH though, the exposed tang - nice!

has anyone bought a naked (no handle) blade and done a paracord wrap on that instead?

bladite
 
Craig_PHX said:
Oh wait! I remember that there was a change in the F1. One has the spine sticking out the end of the handle and the other does not. Is yours the new or old model?
Click to expand...

I don't know if it's old or new, bought about 2-3 years ago, and the spine is slightly sticking out, about 1-2mm. It really was a series when the tang was not visible at the end of the handle? I can't remember to see an F1 (or an S1, A1, H1..) without this feature. But it doesn't really matter, the handle material is (in my experience) tough enough to not being damaged by batoning anyway.


Temper said:
How did the handle hold up to being battoned to loosen the blade?
Click to expand...

Just fine. I can't notice any damage on the handle.
 
The F1s with the Thermorun handles all have the 1-2mm exposed tang at the butt of the knife.

The F1s with Micarta scales do NOT have the exposed tang at the butt. The tang is flush with the handle.

IMO, the Micarta version is more comfortable to hold and to use as it fits my hand better. I'm willing to give up the ability to hammer directly on the tang for that.
 
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