Got my first Emerson...

J

jcaledun

Joined
Dec 12, 2008
Messages
5
Now looking at a second one!

Picked up a Commander BTS two weeks ago and now think I want the CQC-12.

This is addictive!!!
 
jcaledun said:
Now looking at a second one!

Picked up a Commander BTS two weeks ago and now think I want the CQC-12.

This is addictive!!!
Click to expand...

Congrats on the Commie :thumbup:

You do want a 12 but get it soon, they are starting to go up in price now and plain edge 12s are getting tough to find.
 
I got the BT. I do have a question... Should the frame lock barely engage? I've only opened it a few times but one of those times I was able to close it without disengaging the lock...
 
jcaledun said:
I got the BT. I do have a question... Should the frame lock barely engage? I've only opened it a few times but one of those times I was able to close it without disengaging the lock...
Click to expand...

Sounds like you have plenty of room for the lock to wear.
Just keep opening and closing it for a bit. After a couple hundred open/close cycles, it should be all good.
If it isn't engaging good by then, then I'd see about getting the issue rectified.
 
On my new cqc-14 my liner lock didn't engage fully, like maybe 3/4 of the ti liner lock was on the blade, 1/4 off.

I noticed I could play with the blade, while open, and make the ti liner lock sort of jump.

So I (carefully) tried to make the liner lock open/close and scrape the blade a bit. I did this for an hour or so throughout the day.

Now it is 7/8 of the way on the blade and the lockup is really good.

It may just be this though: there is a difference in opening the blade quickly vs. slowly.

If you open it slowly (which I was doing), the little ball point, located on the liner lock, 1/2 down inside the knife, goes off the knife blade, then the only "spring" is the liner lock - since was just resting on the blade for a moment.

If you do it quicker, by a flip of the wrist, the liner lock "spring" is the height of the little ball point, and while this isn't much, it seems to make a difference.

Sorry for being long winded, but that's what happened with mine.
 
Actually, had a question, on the liner lock staying put.

Is this a valid test? Open the knife with a good flick of the wrist. Hit the back of the knife blade into something soft enough, like the carpet.

I can do that 3 times, not too hard, and the knife releases.

I've done this test maybe 5 times, and releases each time.

My liner lock is about 7/8's of the way onto the blade, so appears to be a good lockup.

I can even perform the test after pushing on the liner lock - to try to push it into a more locked position.

Thanks
 
That would be a "spine whack" test.
Its not particularly valid regarding normal use, you will notice slip joints
always fail that test :rolleyes: and they are pretty commonly used.

If the lock is slipping or walking then that would be a problem and should be checked out.

Can you get the lock to fail by just moving the blade about rather than hitting it on something ?
 
First: I don't recommend anyone do this test without a good pair of gloves : )

I did the test a number of time, then got careless, small cut, geez.

Anyway, before, yes I could get it to unlock, just by moving the blade, or flexing it with thumb on the wave.

Just now though, I used a flat larger screwdriver, and pressed the liner lock in towards the blade (carefully so not to mess it up, or the handle) and now it locks up 100%.

I guess general question - if the liner lock is not atleast 100% on the blade, is that too little?

Mine is now finally 100% onto the blade, and at this point, I can whack it into the carpet 10 times and no issues.

Before, it was 7/8's onto the blade and would pop off.

I did also tightened the pivot bolt, so at this point that isn't part of the problem.
 
The lock should work all the way over the lock face. This allows for wear through the knives life.
All my EKIs locked up at about 20-50% when new and wear in accordingly.

I think id have your knife looked at i was you, best to be safe than sorry:thumbup:
 
Thanks, contacted customer service.

I may ask to exchange for their fixed blade knife the police utility knife instead : )
 
i dont know if they would do that, they are gonna wanna repair your knife vs swap it out, wont hurt to try though.

FWIW i would rather have a commander vs a PUK.
 
A correctly made liner/frame lock should always "fail" towards the deepest part of the knife. ie) towards the engagement side. For instance if you are applying pressure to the blade through cutting and you can feel the lock slip it should slip towards the deepest part of the lock up and not back out to unlock. That is in regards imho as to no matter how you grip the knife.

There is mucho debate on the worth of spine whacking a knife blade to try and make the lock fail. Me I always do it, and I do it hard, if the lock fails I don't want it nor do I want to use that knife. Every single folder I currently own save for one(which I don't carry but won't sell/trade either because of this) pass this test with flying colors including every EKI I own. The stickier feeling the lock is to release the better I like it too. I just put a bit of pencil lead on the back of the blade tang where the lock engages and I am good to go. keepem sharp
 
I had sort of whacked my liner lock to the engagement side, and now it locks up a little better. Now 100% of the liner lock is finally on the blade tang.

I added a little pencil lead, to see if it would slide over more, to the engagement side, but now it definitely just slides off to the release side, and that is just with finger pressure. Geez.

Luckily, the dealer I bought it at is going to take a look and see if they can help. Got it from http://www.srknives.com/ in Toronto.

Thanks all for the advice, I appreciate it.
 
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And I still want more! =)
 
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