Got my hands on a BIIIIG oven!

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Nov 26, 2001
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I have a big ceramist oven all for myself! :D
It has an electronic temperature control which allows me to choose the heat up rate and allows to cool slowly, so to anneal almost everything...
It can be pumped up to 1100 °C

The only problem is that it opens from the top.
Any suggestions as to how open safely an oven containing 8-900 °C hot air and how to get what's inside before it cools down too much?
 
CAREFULLY!!!!!!!!:p
Wish I knew this answer also as I have 2 kilns at my disposal from when my Mom used to do ceramics..
Bruce
 
Well, if you don't need to move the kiln around much, you can always go the Gnomish way...

Set the kiln up (I'm also hoping that this doesn't require a lot of coordinated gidget manipulation to open--you know: hold button 'A' 3/4 of the way in, while twisting crank 'C' four full revolutions as you open the lid...) and secure it wherever you're going to use it. Then, directly above the hinge for the lid, attach a pulley to the ceiling. Several feet away, attach a second pulley, so that the feed from one to the other is a clear, straight path. Then, thread the pulleys with something like 1/8" or 3/16" aircraft cable, and attach it to the handle of the kiln lid.

Now, when you pull the cable, the lid should lift, allowing you to be safely across the room when that blast of ultra-hot air rolls out. The aircraft cable should be able to withstand the momentary blast safely, and you can rig some sort of cleat or lock-off point to secure the cable end to, so that you can go over with your tongs and remove the pieces from the kiln.

Mind you, this is TOTALLY theoretical, so if you maim, kill, or otherwise damage yourself, the management (and me, too!) take no responsibility! I can't see why is SHOULDN'T work, though...

Of course, that's what the designers said about the Titanic's design, too... :rolleyes:

Good luck!!

Kal
 
I thought of something like that, but unfortunately it's not feasible...
I'll have to think something different...
 
Maybe we're trying to over-engineer this...

How about using a length (10'-12') of electrical conduit, with a hook at the end? Again, it shouldn't melt in the opening blast, and the length, coupled with the thin walls and hollow nature of the conduit should dissipate any heat that might build up as you're opening the kiln.

We'll get something working for you, Bro!

Kal
 
I think I'd just cut a hole in the side, glue a brick (don't know how) to cover the opening. This would be for hardening so I could get the blade out for quinching.

I was just at the blade show and saw the oven/kiln that I would like to have. The only problem was that it was $2,000 and I didn't win the lottery. The replacement components didn't seem expensive, heater wire and such, and it was made from the soft kiln bricks. My only sticking point was the controler. Isn't there someone who could whip us up a schematic and components list? Please!Please!

Hopefully, Lynn
 
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