Got my NO today

B

BUSHMASTER100

Joined
Jan 22, 2002
Messages
18
This is one tough looking knife. I made the right decision choosing the Busse over the Strider. I cant wait to test it, but that will have to wait until I get back from this military deployment first. My Busse will be going with me. How do I sharpen it if it needs it? and with what and where can I get a sharping tool?
 
Here are a few links relating to Busse sharpening:

http://www.bussecombat.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=1&t=000107

http://www.bussecombat.com/sharpen.html (has a sharpening video)

http://www.bladeforums.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/000923.html

http://www.bladeforums.com/ubb/Forum39/HTML/001096.html

Forgot to add, just in case you didn't know, most Busses have what is called an assymetrical edge; one side of the edge is flat-ground, the other is convex ground.

To sharpen it just use a ceramic rod on the flat-ground side (you should be able to tell the convex side from the flat-ground side by eye...I don't remember which side is flat and which is convex), and strop the other side with a leather belt or strop loaded with flitz or another metal polish. The posts include suggested ceramic rods. You can use Sharpmaker rods, actually. Also, you can quite easily put a regular v-ground edge on your NO with a little time with a stone.

Thanks for stopping by the Busse forum, you should check in more often :) . Nice choice going with Busse and the NO. I'm sure it won't let you down! :D
 
Awsome BUSHMASTER! Cant wait to get one, if I can find one that somebosy wants to trade.... :(

Let us know how she handles...

Be safe!
 
Bushmaster,
Congrats on your Natural Outlaw, great choice!!:D
Good luck and stay safe in your deployment. And thanks
for serving our country!!!



Guy,
Good luck, seems like everyone is keeping their Busse's.
I'm not having any luck trying to trade for a Battle Mistess E
either.:(
 
Congrats BM, isn't the Outlaw badazz:p
For a compact do all blade the NO rocks!:D:D:D



Andrew covered a lot of Busse sharpening FAQ in his post, and the edges should all be ground with the convex/wider bevel on the right side of the blade as you hold the knife by the handle out in front of you with the spine up. Then the flat side is then on the left (it's not as wide of a grind as the convex side either), this is the side you want to drag against the stick.

If you have any other Q's just drop in again.

Kev
 
Natural Outlaw is the best all around knife in the Busse lineup IMHO

John
 
Bushmaster, congratulations and welcome!

Can you post pics?

What is next in line?? BM? SH? AS??

Welcome to the fold.

Mike
 
CHIP!

I have some knives up for trade, some listed, some not.....send me an email and I will give you a list..
 
Bushmaster
Congrats on the NO, it is a great knife, I'm sure it will serve you well. Let us know your impressions once you get a chance to beat the crap out of it ;):D

If I haven't welcomed you already, welcome to the Busse forum. Stay safe on your deployment and check in with us when you have a chance.

BTW, which ones next??;):D
 
Jerry, Eric and Contender,
Sorry for breaking the rules!!:(

No dealing in the forums!!!
 
Same here with apologies people - got carried away with excitement!

I am fast learning that the word Busse does that now and again.
 
Ok now do I need the DMT fine or regular diamond rod? what grti DMT stones do I need also? Does the cermacic rod come in different grits?Thank you
 
BM, all you really need is a fine rod. Ceramic will become finer with use, but the idea is to use it on a somewhat regular basis so as to mimic what a good steeling would do in the kitchen.

At one time I considered the DMT fine diamond folder to put in a pouch or pack but was concerned with it's corrosion resistance. There seems to be enough steel exposed beyond the diamond material that it could be a rusty mess if it got wet.
I am still curious if anyone knows if the rod material with the diamond material is stainless or not. They do look like a great option for in the field.
 
Congrats on your Natural Outlaw, nest to the Assault Shaker, it is my most often carried Busse.

You will be a fine Busse-ite. Your well placed questions show that you are not just someone with the money to purchase who wants to be a me too kind of guy but rather someone who appreciates untimate performance tools and seeks to care for them properly to maintain optimum performance. Trust me, you and Busse knives will get along just fine.
 
Bushmaster,

Congrats on acquiring an absolutely bombproof blade!!!

One of the great characteristics about INFI steel is that it is really hard carbides held in a relatively ductile (but really TOUGH) metal matrix. This is why the edge will tend to roll when you inadvertantly whack it into a rock or other hard object rather than chip out or suffer other catastrophic failure. That ductility also allows INFI to respond very well to steeling or evening out the edge with a smooth rock in the field, since the metal matrix realigns readily without fracturing off. I have found that if the edge does chip out, INFI answers well to sharpening on ceramic sticks, diamond rods, or sharpening stones.

Strabs gave you the straight scoop on the flat/convex configuration of the Busse edge. As he noted, the flat ground side of the edge (which is the side of the edge you'll strop on the ceramic stick) is the left side of the blade when you're standing with the blade tip pointing away from you and the spine of the knife is upward.

To strop the blade you start with the heel of the knife edge at the tip of the ceramic stick, then draw the blade toward you (edge trailing on the ceramic stick) so that you end with the blade tip's edge positioned near the handle of the ceramic stick. If you've worked with Arkansas stones to sharpen knives before, this process is sort of backwards from that. On stones you are pushing the knife along the stone edge-first. Here you are drawing/pulling the knife along the ceramic rod edge-last.

To help determine if you've got the correct angle as you strop the edge, you can use a magic marker to "paint" the edge of the blade. If your stropping on the stick is removing the marking further up the blade from the edge, you need to steepen the angle between the blade and stick so that you're removing the marking off of just the very edge of the blade. After some practice, you can dispose of the marking process because you'll know the angle by feel.

There used to be a video clip around showing how to sharpen Busse blades. If someone has the URL for that clip, please post it here for us & thanks in advance.

Your in nuclear long-windedness,
Greg
 
The one point that you made that is really true is that the ductility of INFI is really something to behold - it is certainly true that you can even strop the blade against many things other than ceramic sticks or sharpeners. When in the field a number of common items can help - rocks, leather or even jeans can do it when only a "light" touch up is required !!
 
Contender is right, I have used Carhart material, the jean material of my pantleg on my thigh and leather jackets to put a quick dress-up on the edge. INFI is very ameniable to touch-ups for eeping keen.
 
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