Got my wicked edge, ready nightmare inside.

MyLegsAreOk

MyLegsAreOk

Joined
Aug 31, 2017
Messages
607
Ok so I did a few knives
Then a few more

HOW DO I AVOID THIS SH*T:
68sl5go.jpg

On my Carbon Fiber NUMBERED Spyderco Yojimbo 2 that is worth a fucking fortune I got these massive gashes. I have to ask in a future thread about regrinding the hollow portion. I want to send it away to get redone. The other one is just a kitchen knife.

Other side:
8FPkC6Y.jpg


They get these massive awful gashes yet I do them the same as the other knives. These two needed to be really ground to get to 15 degrees all the way across but it worked and in the end both are now sharper than factory new but holy christ.

THESE GASHES
HOW THE PISS DO I GET RID OF THEM
A NUMBERED SPRINT RUN F*CKED UP
 
HA HA HA HA !!!!
Laughing WITH you because I did the same shit.
I did a couple of mid line practice blades first though. Take your time, start with the block on the heel and stroke up and away(in one motion) to the tip. Those scratches are from the stone coming off of the bevel. Either grinding spine to edge and back or be hitting the side of the blade befor making contact with the bevel.
 
Ouch that does looked like it hurt. As Mr.Wizard said use some cheap knifes. I went to Walmart and got some 10ish dollar ones (and 5ish dollar in store brand).

Really try to get the motion of touching just the edge. Start slow and steady and get use to the sharpener. You truly have a great sharpener just need to get use to it. Wicked Edge has great customer support if you ask them anything they get back to you pretty quick.

*Edit also might take a look at some videos to use to it this one is 3 parts and pretty detailed.
.

Clay also has good videos
 
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The other guys have nailed it. The wicked edge does have a learning curve. Go slow learn the motions and train your muscles to work within those parameters.
 
Agreed with what the others have said. You're either letter the back edge of the stone drag across the blade of hitting the blade with the leading edge. I suspect it's the back edge.

What kind of strokes are you using. Are you using edge leading strokes where you start high and end low or edge trailing strokes where you start low and end high?

I prefer to use edge trailing strokes where I start at the back of the blade and low and stroke up and outwards creating an arch to match the curve of the blade. Upwards and outwards. I think this works best with the WE. I do use edge leading strokes downward and inward but this is mainly at a very slow pace with lower grit stones.
 
I just free hand sharpen ,I know I'm not as accurate or quite as sharp,but i get my edges hair popping/usable sharp without wearing my blade down too much..
 
I learned a valuable lesson with my Senenza while using my Wicked Edge sharpener: put masking tape on the section of the blade going in the clamp. I sent it in to CRK and they removed the scratches to the flats so happy endings do happen
 
CPP said:
I learned a valuable lesson with my Senenza while using my Wicked Edge sharpener: put masking tape on the section of the blade going in the clamp. I sent it in to CRK and they removed the scratches to the flats so happy endings do happen
Click to expand...

I also use tape to cover the internals of the knife. Nice not to get any metal shavings in your knife when sharpening. I also do on sides of expensive knifes but biggest thing for me is take it slow and enjoy it. I have had multi-day sharpening just going slow and taking breaks.

Once you get use to it you can go crazy fast, but I still enjoy slow and steady more.
 
An Edge Pro Apex and some tape. The best tape of late is thickish clear box tape rather than painter's tape.
And you can go on vacation afterward with all the money you'll save.
 
MyLegsAreOk said:
Ok so I did a few knives
Then a few more

HOW DO I AVOID THIS SH*T:
68sl5go.jpg

On my Carbon Fiber NUMBERED Spyderco Yojimbo 2 that is worth a fucking fortune I got these massive gashes. I have to ask in a future thread about regrinding the hollow portion. I want to send it away to get redone. The other one is just a kitchen knife.

Other side:
8FPkC6Y.jpg


They get these massive awful gashes yet I do them the same as the other knives. These two needed to be really ground to get to 15 degrees all the way across but it worked and in the end both are now sharper than factory new but holy christ.

THESE GASHES
HOW THE PISS DO I GET RID OF THEM
A NUMBERED SPRINT RUN F*CKED UP
Click to expand...

It looks to me like these are scratches made from the diamond dust that comes loose from the diamond plates. Especially when using new diamond stones they have alot of loose diamond dust come free. If you touch the blade to wipe it off or whatever the very hard diamond dust will leave scratches.

There are a few solutions some people blow off the diamond dust. I like to keep the diamond stones wet with some water with a tiny bit of dish soap. You can use a spray bottle to keep the diamond stones wet.

When I need to clean the blade I just dab it off with a paper towel making sure to never wipe it off.
 
Lapedog said:
It looks to me like these are scratches made from the diamond dust that comes loose from the diamond plates. Especially when using new diamond stones they have alot of loose diamond dust come free. If you touch the blade to wipe it off or whatever the very hard diamond dust will leave scratches.

There are a few solutions some people blow off the diamond dust. I like to keep the diamond stones wet with some water with a tiny bit of dish soap. You can use a spray bottle to keep the diamond stones wet.

When I need to clean the blade I just dab it off with a paper towel making sure to never wipe it off.
Click to expand...


Seems to be a weird angle and pattern to be from wiping a blade. I've done that with grit and typically the scratches run with the blade length. Weird angle, and pattern for that.

They do look just like the scratches left when I was careless with my Lansky guided system and I drug the corner of the stone up past the edge....
 
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Bigfattyt said:
Seems to be a weird angle and pattern from wiping a blade. I've done that wirb grit and typically the scratches run with the blade length.

They do look just like the scratches left when I was careless with my Lansky guided system and I drug the corner of the stone up past the edge....
Click to expand...

Idk, if he’s trying to clear any debris from the edge he could easily pinch the blade with a cloth or whatever and drag the cloth down past the edge.
 
Alright guys I've read the thread and thought to change up my game. Here's what I'll say

Lapedog said:
It looks to me like these are scratches made from the diamond dust that comes loose from the diamond plates. Especially when using new diamond stones they have alot of loose diamond dust come free. If you touch the blade to wipe it off or whatever the very hard diamond dust will leave scratches.

There are a few solutions some people blow off the diamond dust. I like to keep the diamond stones wet with some water with a tiny bit of dish soap. You can use a spray bottle to keep the diamond stones wet.

When I need to clean the blade I just dab it off with a paper towel making sure to never wipe it off.
Click to expand...

I doubt it's diamond dust as these scratches are so deep I can't take it off with magic blue or jewelry cleaner. They're light enough to not be able to be seen at a distance but up close you can feel they are less that a grain of sand deep. Incredibly shallow starches. It must have been the paddle coming off near the end and swiping the grind. Again this only has happened on these two knives and I did....6 so far I think? Started with 3 cheap knives that I reground like nuts to break the stones.

aleforme said:
Agreed with what the others have said. You're either letter the back edge of the stone drag across the blade of hitting the blade with the leading edge. I suspect it's the back edge.

What kind of strokes are you using. Are you using edge leading strokes where you start high and end low or edge trailing strokes where you start low and end high?

I prefer to use edge trailing strokes where I start at the back of the blade and low and stroke up and outwards creating an arch to match the curve of the blade. Upwards and outwards. I think this works best with the WE. I do use edge leading strokes downward and inward but this is mainly at a very slow pace with lower grit stones.
Click to expand...

I stroke from the the back of the blade going forward. Bottom of the stone gets pulled down as the stone moves forward. I think this will bring up the most issue because if you continue past the stone it will drag on the surface of the blade. I'll try this next on some kitchen knives I'll do tonight, report back.


It's a shame it happened to such a fantastic piece of mine, I'm almost scared to move on to another one.
Guess now that I can't put my yoji 2 up in the display case I'll um
Just have to buy another yoji 2 sprint!
 
MyLegsAreOk said:
Alright guys I've read the thread and thought to change up my game. Here's what I'll say



I doubt it's diamond dust as these scratches are so deep I can't take it off with magic blue or jewelry cleaner. They're light enough to not be able to be seen at a distance but up close you can feel they are less that a grain of sand deep. Incredibly shallow starches. It must have been the paddle coming off near the end and swiping the grind. Again this only has happened on these two knives and I did....6 so far I think? Started with 3 cheap knives that I reground like nuts to break the stones.



I stroke from the the back of the blade going forward. Bottom of the stone gets pulled down as the stone moves forward. I think this will bring up the most issue because if you continue past the stone it will drag on the surface of the blade. I'll try this next on some kitchen knives I'll do tonight, report back.


It's a shame it happened to such a fantastic piece of mine, I'm almost scared to move on to another one.
Guess now that I can't put my yoji 2 up in the display case I'll um
Just have to buy another yoji 2 sprint!
Click to expand...

I don’t know what caused yours so all I can talk about is my experience,

If I’m using new diamond stones and I am not paying attention I often end up with scratches. I didn’t even know where they came from at first either and they leave quite bad scratches.

Not saying that is where yours are from but just a warning to be aware of that and watch out.
 
Lapedog said:
I don’t know what caused yours so all I can talk about is my experience,

If I’m using new diamond stones and I am not paying attention I often end up with scratches. I didn’t even know where they came from at first either and they leave quite bad scratches.

Not saying that is where yours are from but just a warning to be aware of that and watch out.
Click to expand...

The hairline scratches can come from wiping the blade off and the diamond dust getting between your paper towel and the blade, or using a dirty rag/paper towel. Taping will def. prevent this issue. But if you don't want to tape, one way to help prevent this is to keep the blade relatively clean by wiping it frequently, but making sure to wipe WITH the grind lines, not against them. I usually use fresh paper towels with a squirt of windex on them.

But I agree, I don't think that came from diamond/metal dust, they are way more prominent than the scratches from dust/particles would be (at least, in my experience). It looks like the stone slid down off of the bevel onto the primary grind - taping won't fully prevent this issue as the stones will rip right through the tape. The only solution is either muscle memory or a stop collar on the rods to prevent them from going that low.
 
Just place a tight fitting faucet washer on the guide rod above the heim joint so the top of the hone can't be moved below the edge and contact the side of the blade. Works perfectly to keep from scratching the blade sides. When sharpening a larger or smaller blade slide the washer up or down as needed.
 
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