Got some sandpaper

O

Omega Leather Works

Joined
Jun 13, 2007
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Ducked in to the local autozone and grabbed a multipack of high grit finishing 3m wet/dry.

Is there any way that you can think of to use it with the EP stones? I mean aside from buying a blank. I don't have any problem buying one, I just want to monkey around with this right now. I suppose it would add the width of the paper, but I can compensate for that.

Aside from the EP how do you use it? Range is from 1000 (I believe) to 2500. Stroping maybe? I've got a near polished edge on my native and endura. I suck at freehand (hence the ep) but maybe if I go very slowly...
 
I did some deeper digging and found some answers. Looks like trailing only. I may still try and use the EP as a guide but only for down strokes.

I need to figure out how to attach the paper to the stone though.
 
I don't have the EP, but have used wet/dry once or twice with my Lansky and/or Gatco, over a fine/ef ceramic hone. If the paper is used wet, edge-leading is possible if used with very light pressure. It's better the more tightly the paper is glued/held down flush to the hone. The high-grit paper (maybe 600-2000 and higher) feels quite 'slick' when wet, which lends itself pretty well to the fine-polishing stages. Makes for nice feedback to the fingers.


David
 
David how did you hold it your stone? I've done some very funky things using the lansky guide over the years. I may be able to get away with folding the paper over the edges and holding it in place, but it may be hard.
 
Strigamort said:
David how did you hold it your stone? I've done some very funky things using the lansky guide over the years. I may be able to get away with folding the paper over the edges and holding it in place, but it may be hard.
Click to expand...

When I used it, I just did as you described, by holding it in place. Sort of pinched the paper with my fingers on the back side of the hone. Worked well enough for my purposes at that time. As I mentioned, if used wet, the paper is easier to manage as it becomes slicker, and also will tend to cling more snugly to the flat surface of the hone. It's not as prone to catching or binding against the edge of the blade this way. Just make sure to keep the paper as tight to the hone as possible, and keep pressure light. If it gets a little loose, the paper may tend to roll around the edge, or will simply be cut by it (if edge-leading). You could take it further by using some adhesive or by using zip-ties to hold it, but that's up to you.


David
 
If I can find some of my daughters tiny rubber bands I may try that. ;)

I'll let ya know how it goes.

As of now I haven't achieved great results with my native in a trailing motion but I suspect impatience as a culprit. On my Opinel carbone I have made better progress. I think "tree topping" is a term that gets thrown around a lot. More so in other sub-forums but the practice has not been accomplished by me, at least not yet. I'm not sure if you are familiar with the No8 but it is a very lightweight knife. I can hold it in the middle of the handle and the weight of the blade will cut through ad print paper. Still, when I brush a hair across the edge it remains intact. I may need to reprofile it again at a more acute angle in order to get satisfying results. I believe it's at 24°(ish) inclusive at the moment.

I still need to think on my freehand technique with this paper. I'm currently using it on top of my thin leather strop. I suppose it could be convexing my edge on a micro level. I'm not sure though if that will keep me from my new tree topping goal.

Hmm...
 
Others may have said it, but put it on a glass plate and use a lot of water to hold it down (make sure there are no air bubbles underneath) then use just like a stone, edge leading strokes are fine. Also check out Lee Valley fir grits as fine as 0.1 microns.

Connor
 
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