Gransfor Bruks anyone?

Joined
Apr 20, 2005
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24
Everywhere I look, Gransfor Bruks appears to be the number one axe/hatchet, but why? Wood handle, steel head, why are they so special? I can see that they have something good going for them, one because of the price and two because they have a crazy warranty, 20 years! Anyone have one that they would like to explain why they are so reputable; like how they perform for chopping/splitting, the usual stuff.

Thanks,
Andrew
 
I have a Brux's hunters axe. I like it. It's neat,balanced nicely,excellent forge work and heat treatment. I have not used its flaying poll yet. Just used it as a light field axe. I bought it because I needed a field axe and the hunter model was on a tabel at Dixon's gunmakers fair by chance.
 
I have had my hands on almost every thing that they make while at Smoky Mountain Knife Works. They are special because they are made one at a time by a craftsman who cares enough about what he does to put his initials on each head he makes. They come very sharp with good leather covers for the heads to protect the edge. They are a purpose built cutting machine.
 
I've been able to handle the hunters axe some and it was the best small axe I've ever used. Price is a bit steep for me though, so when I go for an axe, I'll go with the Wetterling, which is another fine axe that sells for about half the money.
 
I sold a Wetterling #13 (The smallest model) to a pal recently. It performed wonderfully. Its my understanding from the reviews that I have read that the Wetterling is a great hatchet and just the tiniest step down in terms of performance to a GB, but at a significantly less price. I whole heartedly reccomend the Wetterling stuff.
 
balance, blade geometry, the whole package. GB got it right...use one and you'll understand...they go through wood like butter - i can take down pine trees on my property faster with my forest axe than my stihl chain saw...'course, i get tired much more quickly, but my point is they really cut well.

cheaper axes tend to be big fat wedges of steel...GB's are shaped much slimmer and with a very effective geometry for slicing through wood efficiently...they tend to be smaller and lighter yet cut much better.
 
A quick google search turned out the following reviews of GB axes,a ll of which are pretty intensive. There are several more here on Bladeforums, and numerous more on other outdoor forums.

http://www.physics.mun.ca/~sstamp/knives/gb_forest_axe.html

http://www.physics.mun.ca/~sstamp/knives/gb_hatchet.html

http://www4.gvsu.edu/triert/cache/articles/ce1/cegb1b.htm

http://www.oldjimbo.com/survival/gransfors.html

http://www.shotgunreport.com/Reviews/GransforsBruks/Scandinavian.html

Basically, GB axes offer a good steel, hardened decenty hard (much harder than common axes), good handles both in terms of shape, grain and being free of defects (most of the time), excellent profiles for soft woods, excellent edges (shaving sharp from the factory, many sharper than most knives), good balance, good quality control (evenly forged eyes, no scallops in the edges, no defects in the steel (inclusions, folds, etc).
 
andrew_belicka said:
...why are they so special?
Because everything else is crap. A generation ago a GB level axe would be what you found if you just asked for an axe in general as that is how they were made. However the quality has declined to such an extent that now "axe" has even become a degrading insult to apply to a knife which is dull and cuts poorly.

In comparison, an actual wood working level axe has an edge which is far more acute and far sharper than most tactical knives. That condemnation would have been very odd to implicate depreciated performance 25 years ago, if anything it would have been a complement.


-Cliff
 
Can anyone give me a comparison between the hunters axe and the small forest axe? I want a light axe and have narrowed it down to these two. Other than the flaying poll does the hunters axe offer any better performance over the SFA? I am kind of leaning towards the SFA, but I wanted to keep my options open.
Thanks
Mike
 
They are quality tools forged by people who know what the hell they are doing. Most off the shelf hatchets are hardware store junk.
 
Cliff:
Because everything else is crap.

I will be the first to admit you know more about axe use than I do, however I respectfully disagree with your assessment.

There are other axe works that put out a very decent product, Wetterling, Snow and Neally, Vaughn, Bahco, etc. put out a very decent quality product. No, they are not up to the high standard set by GB, but they are far from crap. An analogy to that would be calling a new C6 Corvette crap because it is not as nice as a Ferrari or Maserati.

As for the quality of axes declining, I differ with you as well, especially with regards to initial edge quality. I began buying axes over 25 years ago, and some in my family decades before that. What was generally available then (around here) were axes like Plump and Collins brands.

From my memory, most axes did not come with an edge applied at all. I think the further back you go, the more true that is. A friend is a collector of old axe heads. He has reported that many producers shipped their products completely unsharpened, and this was not unusual since people buying axes expected to put an edge on it that matched its intended use.

Further, they were shipped from the factory in crates, no head covers and a fine edge would have chipped out in transit, etc.

Also, I think the quality metallurgy and heat treatment in top end axes has improved to a noticeable degree. I have several axes over 50 years old, all are much easier to file, stone and polish then GB axes. They are not nearly as hard.

In talking with "Old Timers" about axes, many have reported that an edge that was too hard to file easily was seen as not desirable, since the thought was that it would be brittle. I ahve shown my GB axes to several older relatives an in-laws, all with considerable timber time. Every single one has been impressed, noting they were the best they had seen. No exceptions.

I would agree that the market has been flooded by Made in China junk steel axes with knotted handles, and I would never waste my money on them. However, the quality of top end axes is really, really good.

As well, I think the variety of axe types has really diminished. 25 years ago you could find axes of many varieties, head shapes, etc, now these can only be found on Ebay at sky high prices.

But comparing axe heads 25-100 years old to modern GB axes, I have not seen any that offer higher quality steel or heat treat. Some have head profiles more optimal for certain tasks (especially hard woods) but none are clearly superior in overall quality.

However, axes were used commonly enough, and expectations were high enough that no reputable seller would be caught selling the Chinese jun axes that are prevalent today. The average axes quality might have decreased, but only because the "bottom of the pool" has been so heavily diluted with poor quality, the top end stuff is as good, if not better, then ever in my opinion.

As for axe handles, most that are sold today are junk, that is true. Walk into home depot, lowes, Canadian tire, etc and you will be ahrd pressed to find a really good handle in the whole store with hundreds to choose from. Not shaped right, bad grain, sap wood, knots, bad balance, etc. Some of the furniture coming on GB axes is really good though, especially if your seller will hand pick them.

Most people on the various outdoors forum seem to buy from Darren Cutsforth, and the reviews indicate he will hand pick. If you can buy them locally, you can choose your own of course.

Of course, our different perspective may come from what has been available in your area. perhaps NF and Northern Canada had some really exceptional axes that were only available locally.

Again, I am not trying to claim that I know more about axes or their use than you, as I am sure that is not the case. I just happen to have a different perspective on this issue.

If Jim Aston still posts on the forums, maybe he can add some insight, as he is one of the most knowledgable people I have come across as far as vintage axes, as well as modern ones, proflies, uses, technique, etc.
 
knifetester said:
There are other axe works that put out a very decent product ...
Yes, I have a large Iltis which is decent, I had to rework the edge, but not a major reshaping of the primary grind, just an edge angle alteration. The above statement, which I should have clarified, was intended to convey that the reason GB products are regarded as "special" is simply because of what they are being compared to, specifically with the modern perspective of what an axe is and what it should be used for. Are there equal of GB's in production, sure, and some which are better such as various customs, but in general what people think of now as an "axe" and what they did a generation ago is massively different.

As well, I think the variety of axe types has really diminished.
Mainly as there is no serious felling now, axe wise anyway. Even if you restrict patterns to the states you can find many head shapes and grinds wer used, worldwide there were dozens - pretty much all gone now outside of collectors. I don't think anyone actually makes true felling double bitted axes anymore now. I have checked ebay off an on for a few years and have not seen one.

But comparing axe heads 25-100 years old to modern GB axes, I have not seen any that offer higher quality steel or heat treat.
Head handle alignment and grain is one area where they can't stand up. There would be no trouble matching the head pattern or finding a similar one a generation ago, though yes sharpening was necessary usually. In fact where I live, the community stone is still functioning. Passed down from father to son, this is a huge crank driven wheel which was used to adjust edge angle profile which everyone did for the type of trees commonly cut.

...may come from what has been available in your area.
Locally everyone here burned wood, and it was cut with an axe. Quality was very important because if you didn't get enough wood you went cold, fairly simple, so people were *really* critical. Outside of initial sharpness GB would not have impressed anyone, and many would be rejected because of grain and/or handle alignment issues. Every barn or porch would have an axe of high quality, they were everywhere.

No one then would have been impressed on inspection with the sharpness because every axe was that sharp. Now the profile is decent for pine and the softer fir's, but too thick for juniper and the harder spruces so would need to be ground out. This would not have been a complaint as often you could not find the exact pattern you needed and have to alter a stock one, which everyone did to some degree anyway to accomodate skill and strength.

Solid axes, and aside from the handle issues, they would have been well recieved here a generation ago, but nothing special noted about them. Now though they are pretty standout and offer a very nice performance / price ratio. For anyone serious about bushcraft paring a Wildlife Hatchet, Mora 2000, and Martindale machete would cover a lot of ground for a decent amount of money.

-Cliff
 
Do any of ya'll have any experience with Russian axes? There seems to be more and more coming in of late, and that is a country with a hell of a lot more axe use than most.
 
lumpymike1 said:
Can anyone give me a comparison between the hunters axe and the small forest axe?


lumpymike1,
I own and have used both the SFA and Hunter's Axe. I prefer the hunter’s axe due to the handle shape and texturing. In terms of performance while chopping wood, I can tell no discernable difference. Again this is my opinion, but I think the handle shape and texture is more comfortable on the hunter’s model.


Jason
 
i have done some chopping and skinning with the hunters axe, and the flay poll does work well, it will skin easily i have tried it on deer and wild hogs. the axe is the right shape, size and weight for me, and would be my choice for an alaskan hunt where the axe may be called on to build camp, break down big game animals, and if needed as a survival tool. the polished flay poll might not be first choice for pounding stakes.

alex
 
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