Gransfor Bruks SFA Handle Questions

C

Cutwater

Joined
Oct 8, 2009
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Afternoon folks, hope you all are enjoy the fall weather. I know I am! (I just realized I spelt Gransfors Bruk wrong in the title, sorry!)

I come to you guys today to ask a question about grain and heartwood in handles... specifically, how much does it matter?

I'll show you a few photos and would you mind letting me know what you think? I'm a bit worried about the grain of the handle and the heartwood in it... are my fears unfounded?

Here are some shots of the sides:
SFABack_zps8ddeab45.png

SFAFront_zps5aae2328.png


A Close up of the wood:
SFAHeartwood_zpsb443f4a8.png


And the grain:
SFAGrain_zpsc11940fe.png


So what do you think; Am I all good? should I contact someone? I'm headed to the mountains this weekend for some early fall camping, and in all honesty, I'm gonna use the thing regardless... but I was wondering if you guys think I might need to invest in a new handle or swing it till the head halls off!
 
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I wouldn't worry about the grain orientation one bit on anything less than a felling / splitting axe. On something this size I think of grain orientation as similar to frame lock % on a quality knife - something to keep people with OCD occupied :P
 
It is not ideal but I wouldn't worry about it, especially in a short handled axe. You have a lot of the growth rings going the entire length of the handle so there is very little grain runout. That is more important than grain orientation. There has been research showing no real difference in axe handles between heartwood or sapwood in hickory.
 
If it was mine would just plan on replacing it. If you don't break it out right, I would bet that it will warp.
 
In my experience (the two handles I've broken), it was because the handle was half and half heart and sap wood. I think the only weakness is the point between the two. If it's all sap, or all heart, it'll hold up. As for the grain, not so great, but it will hold up, especially for the length of an SFA. As stated above, only tools that get a lot of impact (sledges, splitters, long fellers) really need ideal grain.

+1 to Halfaxe for mentioning grain running the full length. Very true.
 
I wouldn't worry about it, use it and if it ever breaks get a replacement handle and follow the instructions in your axe book that came with the axe.

With both my Gransfors Bruks I purchased replacement handles and they come with everything you need to do the job.
 
I'm surprised the company would allow sales of handles like that! Lord knows you 'pay through the nose' for a G-B. Likely as not G-B have come to realize that most consumers wouldn't recognize an ideal handle (aside from is it 'pretty') if it came up and bit them. Your handle is short and thick enough, and also not likely to be unduly abused or used, to likely last you a lifetime anyway.
I never paid any attention to axe/shovel/hammer handle grain orientation in my younger days and broke countless handles!
However that being said; you should be able to select a replacement handle yourself (via side and end pictures) from G-B rather than blindly trust them to select another of these for you if/when the time comes.
 
I just thought I would post a link to Tuatahi axes in NZ, these guys make some of the finest racing axes on the planet so I think it would be fair to say they know a little bit about handles. The interesting part is on red vs white hickory handles and mixed.

http://www.tuatahiaxes.com/axehandles.html
 
i think i would be happy with that handle, consistent summer growth and minimal grain run out.

garry3 said:
I would bet that it will warp.
Click to expand...

do you think the grain orientation thats ~45 degrees from being inline with the eye is enough to cause warping or is there a big kink in the grain or some other visual cue i missed?
 
Your handle should already be kiln or air-dried so that warping is minimal. Having said that I have seen seriously re-curved handles on axes that consistently sat close to wood stoves for years. IMO your handle is far too short and too thick to really want to move in any particular direction anyway.
 
theDH said:
i think i would be happy with that handle, consistent summer growth and minimal grain run out.



do you think the grain orientation thats ~45 degrees from being inline with the eye is enough to cause warping or is there a big kink in the grain or some other visual cue i missed?
Click to expand...

Yes, the 45 degree grain. Aggrevated by the bend in the handle. Just look at one side of the handle compared to the other. Uneven stresses and wood moves around with the moisture content(humidity). I would be surprised if that handle is straight right now.
 
stewey1 said:
I just thought I would post a link to Tuatahi axes in NZ, these guys make some of the finest racing axes on the planet so I think it would be fair to say they know a little bit about handles. The interesting part is on red vs white hickory handles and mixed.

http://www.tuatahiaxes.com/axehandles.html
Click to expand...
Sap wood is live wood (at the time the tree was felled) whereas heartwood is become the structural component of the continually rising tree once the older water and energy transport system has become obstructed with minerals and debris. No reason why live and dead wood wood would suddenly cease to adhere to each other. It's curious that "racing axes" would not distinguish with any of the 1/2 dozen + - desirable species of Hickory that are out there. Obviously they do not seek out nor cut their own lumber!
The old Finnish paddle-maker that crafted a Black Cherry canoe paddle for me 35 years ago said he only used air-dried wood and from Pennsylvania etc instead of central Ontario because he wanted as much space between growth rings as he could get. Said from experience that widely separated growth rings made for stronger wood. His Cherry product has an unbelievable flex to it and I still use and cherish that paddle!

Is someone out there up to try to prove or disprove this theory? Same with testing kiln-dry VS air-dry.
And then of course how about comparing Bitternut Hickory VS Shagbark Hickory VS White Ash VS White/Bur Oak VS Amer Elm VS Rock Elm VS hard Maple VS Hophornbeam VS Blue Beech...........
 
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