Gransfors 3.5# felling axe

Joined
Jan 19, 2016
Messages
10
Hey all, I'm new here, I didn't see an introduction area so I figured I'd just jump in. I received this as trade recently, it was clearly made for US sale as it's weight is stamped in lbs (at least I assume that's what the 3 1/2 means.) It's in decent shape and though I haven't sharpened it yet it seems to be decent steel. It's in vinegar right now to remove rust and then it'll get fixed up and re hafted. Does anybody know when this may have been made or any other info? Thanks!
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I removed the rust and paint and sharpened it up and put a handle on it. Pretty hard steel on this one.

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Nice, back when GFB made no nonsense affordable axes for the US market. Should serve you well.

Needs the blue paint!
 
Yeah, I wonder where one gets that baby blue color. Unfortunately one of the metal wedges I added split the wooden wedge and handle, but I think it's still pretty secure.
 
Yeah, I wonder where one gets that baby blue color. Unfortunately one of the metal wedges I added split the wooden wedge and handle, but I think it's still pretty secure.

If the handle is split below the head you will want to pull the handle and put on a new one now before going to work. It is just asking for safety issues and will undoubtedly just break off when you are trying to use it. This is why a lot of people on here, myself included don't use the metal wedges and just stick with a wood wedge only. If you can post some close up pictures of the cracks you are talking about though some of use can comment further.
 
It's nothing that severe, I don't think it even extends past the top exposed portion of the handle. I would have pulled it already if I was concerned. I always use metal wedges on my tools, and this has happened on occasion, I've never been able to pinpoint the cause when it happens. I'll see if I can get a pic later
 
Likely manufacture is sometime after 1955 and before 1980. There were a wide variety of Swedish tools marketed (certainly in Canada) during the 1960s. They could compete against domestic manufacture but not with the influx of Asian goods that began to make huge inroads in the 1970s.
 
Likely manufacture is sometime after 1955 and before 1980. There were a wide variety of Swedish tools marketed (certainly in Canada) during the 1960s. They could compete against domestic manufacture but not with the influx of Asian goods that began to make huge inroads in the 1970s.
Great thanks! I had assumed '70s or '80s, but why do you say after '55, out of curiosity? Did something happen/change that year?
 
don't use metal wedges unless you have to.
nice axe by the way
Thanks! I'm not understanding this anti metal wedge that's come up a few times... I can learn new tricks, but explain the logic if y'all are willing... My tools get worked pretty good and usually 40 miles from a place I can pound a wood wedge back in, so I pin them for security, I'm willing to listen though.
 
Thanks! I'm not understanding this anti metal wedge that's come up a few times... I can learn new tricks, but explain the logic if y'all are willing... My tools get worked pretty good and usually 40 miles from a place I can pound a wood wedge back in, so I pin them for security, I'm willing to listen though.

It's just a preference some have. I make my wooden wedges fill the eye and kerf fully then glue them in, and glue is another no no! The metal wedges will split the wood most times, so best to save them for down the road if things are tight without them. You can use linseed oil or swel- lock on the wedge in place of the glue if you want. Either seems to be more acceptable.

I think that blue is Robins egg or maybe even delphinium blue. I had a '58 Chevy truck that was close :).
 
It's just a preference some have. I make my wooden wedges fill the eye and kerf fully then glue them in, and glue is another no no! The metal wedges will split the wood most times, so best to save them for down the road if things are tight without them. You can use linseed oil or swel- lock on the wedge in place of the glue if you want. Either seems to be more acceptable.

I think that blue is Robins egg or maybe even delphinium blue. I had a '58 Chevy truck that was close :).
Interesting. Maybe I'll try one without, it's just not how I've ever done it, never had an axe fail prematurely, that I hung, though a few new purchased have( though they had steel wedges when they were bought so this isn't an argument for them.) I've also never painted an axe... I think I may attempt it here.
 
I don't think the split from metal wedge is usually significantly harmful, but it does stand out, especially when leaving wood proud of the eye, which is a somewhat new trick for me, but one I've come to like.

You did a very nice job of bringing that axe back to full utility, and painting is your choice, so don't let my opinion influence you. It looks nice as is and paint on axes is not fashionable these days, but I do like that color: it looks retro cool to me.
 
Great thanks! I had assumed '70s or '80s, but why do you say after '55, out of curiosity? Did something happen/change that year?

The global export surge of European goods began after WWII but it took many Countries and their industries time to rebuild/modernize operations and then to design and market goods. The n. American economy was booming by the mid-50s. No doubt some Swede axes trickled in before the mid 50s but my guess is that the majority of sales would have been later.
 
Nice score, restoring and old good quality axe always has more value to me than a shiny new one.
I agree! I have maybe 7 or 8 refurbs I've done, it's always a rewarding project ( though the double bits and big felling axes rarely see use, I use chainsaws for the bulk of the work load.)
 
The global export surge of European goods began after WWII but it took many Countries and their industries time to rebuild/modernize operations and then to design and market goods. The n. American economy was booming by the mid-50s. No doubt some Swede axes trickled in before the mid 50s but my guess is that the majority of sales would have been later.
Thanks again for the info/further info!
 
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