Gransfors Bruks Axe Handlle Boiled Linseed Oil - Tool Question in General

[Hale Storm]

Okay, so I picked up a couple new GB's (SFA and a double bit) and I also rehung two other axes and a hatchet that I have. All are hickory handled and my question is about the boiled linseed oil and treating the handles over time to keep them from drying out.

I want to make sure I have this right before I treat all five handles and make a mistake.

1. Lightly sand the handles to insure the pores are open? All of these have been lightly used lately, but have no excessive oil from the hands or stains yet on the handles. Do I clean the handles with anything first?
2. Boil the linseed oil - Use a regular pot or buy a throw away? - Will the oil damage or stain my pots?
3. Use a rag to rub the oil onto the handles liberally.
4. Let dry for ??? How long? Hours? Days?
5. Wipe off excess oil.
6. Perform this task annually.

Thanks

 

[SC T100]

1. Lightly sand the handles to insure the pores are open? All of these have been lightly used lately, but have no excessive oil from the hands or stains yet on the handles. Do I clean the handles with anything first?
2. Boil the linseed oil - Use a regular pot or buy a throw away? - Will the oil damage or stain my pots?
3. Use a rag to rub the oil onto the handles liberally.
4. Let dry for ??? How long? Hours? Days?
5. Wipe off excess oil.
6. Perform this task annually.

Thanks

You won't need to actually boil the linseed oil...BLO is a commercial product. I always sand any new/rough handles with 60-grit, wipe on some BLO using a blue shop towel, let it sit for about 10 minutes, then reapply if the wood is absorbing the BLO (really dry handles will take quite a few coats). Once it stop absorbing just wipe the excess off if the handle well and let it sit for a day or two. It should be good to go after that. The hit them with a light coat of BLO every now and then until the handle stops absorbing it altogether.

Make sure you don't leave any balled up BLO-soaked rags laying around...they have the ability to spontaneously combust. I leave mine on the bare concrete floor to dry before throwing them away...that way any heat has ample room to disperse.

Some folks seem to prefer finer-grain paper for their handles (200 and 400 grit), but I like the feel of 60-grit with BLO when it's done. It allows for more fine dirt to stick in the wood, but I don't mind a bit.

Your GB handles have already been treated with BLO at the factory, then coated in beeswax I believe...they state what they do on their website. I hit mine with a few light coats, but it didn't really accept any except for the wood above the eye. Until they get used a few times you really don't need to treat them yet.

A light coat on the heads themselves will form a protective barrier from water and rust, but too thick and the entire head will feel gummy.

 

[Alocksly]

Like SC T100 said above, you can buy BLO at the hardware store. If you already have some raw linseed oil you can use that as is as well without boiling it yourself. I'll also echo the caution about not leaving balled up BLO soaked rags or paper towels. They can and will smoulder and flame all on their own.

 

[Hale Storm]

The Gransfors Bruks website say the handle is already treated in linseed oil from the factory and treated with beeswax as well. I'm assuming I need to sand it lightly next year when I do the annual linseed oil treatment? Or, how do I remove the wax so the oil will absorb? Or should I not worry about it at all?

 

[halfaxe]

Boiled linseed oil is good to have on hand. I treat all my wood handled tools annually including shovels, sledge hammers etc. as well as axes. I only sand if there are scratches or gouges to smooth out. If you start to notice cracks or checking in the wood, you waited to long. I wouldn't sand off the wax but I do sand off varnish in the grip area of a new handle.

 

[Hale Storm]

Thanks SC T100, alocksly, and halfaxe,

I'll get some BLO next time I'm at the Home Depot or Lowes and treat all my handles.