Gransfors Bruks question.

[paleomanone]

I'm a newbie to the world of Axe's and Hatchet's so I am hoping to learn from this forum. I recently picked a new handle and made the mistake of asking the kid at the hardware store what handle I should use to rehang the GBA ax head that I had resting in a tool box for many years. The kid selects a 36 inch straight handle and tells me this is what I need. So without really thinking this through I pay for it and head home and rehang the Gransfors Bruks. I had to visit the store a few days later and saw the kid working. I couldn't resist so I asked how long have you been working here? This is the end of my 2nd week he says........
First job? Yes Sir, was the reply.....
Well I had to admire his confidence.
So my question is, did I use the wrong handle? What are "pros" and "cons" regarding straight and curved? The more I think about it, I can not help but think I should have used a curved handle. I plan to use it for a some tree stump work, firewood cutting as well as when out camping. I appreciate the feedback.

 

[tanglediver]

There are so many combinations. If it is a tight fit, and it works for you, I say swing away.
If it were mine, I would only change it if I hated it (in a manner of speaking).

 

[neeman]

Perhaps the kid had to split wood when he got home from school and knows??

The handle hangs well?
It is tight?
Then enjoy using it and don't worry

And for a long handle straight is fine

 

[SC T100]

I like straight handles and I like curved handles...as long as it swings and feels good you should be good to go.

However...it looks like he may have given you a double bit axe handle. It might just be the pic angles, but was the eye symmetrical and oval-ish? I ask only because the shoulders below the head look an awful lot like a double bit handle. Was the eye of the head fully taken up by the handle (or at least close to is)? Also, how heavy is the axe head? As long as it's over 3 pounds a 36-inch handle should be fine as long as it's comfortable.

Edit: I don't mean to imply that it must be changed or anything, just curious. As long as it's tight and well-wedged it should work just fine.

 

[300Six]

Before the age of inexpensive machine-made handles homemade and straight hafts were much more common. If the current setup works for you, great. I wouldn't be in any hurry to rehaft it. Length is usually what bothers folks the most; a light head on a long handle is awkward as is a heavy head on a short haft. Straights these days are typically reserved for double bits, Pulaskis and splitters, tools which use both ends of the head. Judging by the mushrooming on yours it has been used at both ends already! The kid at the hardware store probably only had experience with splitting mauls which have a hardened poll and therefore don't suffer from being used as a hammer or sledge.

 

[paleomanone]

Yes, the eye was symetrical/ ovalish. It took me a while to shape it to fit the eye of the GBA head.

 

[SC T100]

Yes, then he likely handed you a double bit handle. Aslong as it's on there good you can certainly use it that way, or you can swap it out for a standard single-bit axe handle. Up to you! Do out overstrike a good bit like I do? You may want to just use it for a whiel until you dial in you swing, and by then it should be pretty damaged like mine get haha. Then you can swap it out for a standard handle and go from there.

 

[Twoinch]

asking a kid(or anyone) at the hardware store about what you need is asking for wrong(and possibly dangerous) advice. i am fairly certain these folks are trained to appear very confident in the advice they give out, even if they are totally winging it.

as for your question, yes. you used the "wrong" handle, in technical terms. the thing is, its a piece of wood. how wrong can a piece of wood be, if it accomplished what you need from it.

curved or straight handle on a single bit is totally user preference. any and all self respecting ax makers today will offer their single bit axes with straight or curved handles. look at the catalogs. i personally much prefer the straight handle on an ax, no matter if it has an edge on both sides or not. why switch back and forth between types instead of mastering one?

the only issue i can see from using a double bit handle on a single bit would be the fact that you would be putting the center of mass further forward, which counteracts the balancing effect of the poll(flat side) of the ax. this is why single bit ax handles have the shoulder of the handles curved on the back, so that the center line of the handle is closer to the bit and further from the poll. this helps the ax balance when being swung, less wobble, more accuracy. much like the much more balanced double bit axes.

it also appears that you trimmed the wedged end of the handle before you fitted the head to it. i definitely suggest leaving about 1/2" of handle protruding through the head when fitting. once its fitted the final time, trim the protrusion down to about 1/4" and then drive the wedge. once the wedge is seated, trim the excess wedge off flush and rasp and sand the small amount of protruding wood until its between 1/8" to 1/4" left sticking out. leave it like that because that flare sticking out will keep the head seated much more solidly for longer.

all in all, if the ax feels fine, and works fine, use it. there is nothing that is wrong about it, in the sense that it wont work.

 

[300Six]

The kid at the store has real potential for a stellar future as "salesman"; never admit to not knowing about something, and positively plug whatever is at hand. In this apprentice-occasion he already did both and you went home satisfied and with a new purchase handle. Next time may be an expensive sports car or some sort of unproven Green technology!