Gransfors Bruks Scandinavian Forest Axe. The right tool for the job

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Hi folks

I work as a Ranger in a UK national Park. One of the things I often end up doing (particularly at this time of year!) is clearing the odd windblown tree from one of the paths in my patch. This is something I will prioritise. Most of the time I can get relatively close with a vehicle, so have a choice if sharp objects to chose from when dealing with the offending tree. Sometimes I will have to set out on foot to remote places. I'm often working on my own and Park policy is not to allow we to use a chainsaw on my own. So, last month I purchased a Gransfors Bruks Scandinavian Forest axe after doing a bit of research (youtube/forums, etc). If i'm setting out on foot I now carry a Sliky saw, and the Gransfors together with a first aid kit and possibly a few other tools to repair gates etc on the way. All adding up to a manageable pack for a few hours.

Long story short, I'm very happy. Despite the axe's relative lightness, it's balance make it powerful and controllable without using too much energy. So far it has happily tackled fallen trees up to 10 inch diameter. As in the past anything larger often means planning into another day with extra manpower, winching equip, etc anyway. At least by carrying this axe if it's manageable I can do it there and then.

A note: Gransfors advertise this as a limbing/snedding axe. The thin blade profile makes it perfect for this. By cross cutting/felling with it I am already pushing beyond what it is designed for. However, cutting a wide 'V' enables me to get away with it. I'm surprised that people buy these axes with splitting in mind. I'm also surprised that axe people have posted their disappointment with this axe because it has a thin, concave head shape as opposed to the convex head on a general purpose American axe. I've spent many years working as a Tree Surgeon and a forester (as did my father and grandfather). The techniques you are taught for snedding trees with a chainsaw (keep the bar of the saw flat on the stem of the tree and keeping the saw on the other side of the stem where possible) are exactly the same when snedding with the axe ( I suspect these techniques were passed from axe to chainsaw). The shape of the head enables you to keep the flat of the axe head on the stem with the edge of the bit always leading into the next branch where it joins the stem. This is more energy efficient and would be more difficult with a convex axe head. This axe is also designed with conifers in mind (plenty of them in Sweden). It manages most hardwood quite well however.

My Grandfather carried an axe like this just for snedding together with a felling axe and a cross-cut saw. Gransfors' advertising is honest with what it describes this axe as being for and it over achieves in that task. It is a specialised tool. Asking it to do anything else as people seem to be is pushing a highly developed tool into foreign territory.

This chap is far better than me at it:)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1199Y...eature=related

Cheers

Sam
 
Thank you for your work. I do trailwork in a US national forest in New Hampshire.

I don't have the scandi but have a GB American felling axe. It is really nice axe. It's chops well and holds an edge well.

What model Silky saw do you use?
 
From Wikipedia:

"Snedding is the process of stripping the side shoots and buds from the length of a branch or shoot, usually of a tree or woody shrub. Most commonly this process is performed during hedge laying.

The verb, "to sned", analogous to today's limbing, was also used by woodcutters in Scotland to refer to the process of removing branches from felled trees. Whether using an axe or a chainsaw the relative difficulty of snedding was a key measure of the difficulty of the job as a whole.

The word comes from the Scandinavian snäddare, meaning a smooth log via the Old English "snaedan"...
 
I would tend to agree with Peter Vido on flat sided axes in general.

"A flat-sided ax is fine for limbing small to mid-sized limbs, cutting saplings the size severed in about one to three strokes, for dressing timber (i.e. carpentry work), and making kindling out of small dimension round stock or scraps of boards. In other words, for all tasks where the ax is not sunk so deep into material that will then exert significant side-pressure upon its face."

Maybe I don't understand your point on the flat face being advantageous for limbing. I have always used a 2 1/4 pound Mann (high centerline, etc) for limbing, cutting tops and bucking logs and I haven't found myself wishing it were thinner. In fact, it is a bit on the fat side so as to "throw" the chip better in green wood. The edge isn't given any special treatment either, if it cuts paper its good enough. I don't own a GB, but for cutting small (2"-4") green limbs, I would think the depth of cut (as a result of the thin, flat face) would cause bind and a particularly annoying tug to release it.
 
In my opinion,besides custom axes,Gransfors Bruks makes the finest axes money can buy.I have the Wildlife Hatchet and will get the Scandinavian Forest Axe next.That Sweedish L6 is no joke.
 
I have read the concave cheeks also mean less binding when cutting green wood, particularly conifers which cover most of Sweden, I guess.
 
I guess it would in theory, but I think having the hump would work better in reducing surface area, as well as throw a chip much better. concave face would be harder to maintain as well, hard to shape.
 
I think the "concave cheeks" refer to the outline of the cheek going from the side of the eye down to the bit. Both of the axes pictured below have this concave aspect, the Gransfors as well as the Keen Kutter. The Keen Kutter has the additional feature of the high centerline "convex-sided" geometry (which the Gransfors lacks):

Steve Tall said:
[Written by Peter Vido]

Keen Kutter with high-centerline "convex-sided" geometry:
killa+concept+Keen+Kutter+B_1_3_1.jpg


Gransfors Bruks with "flat-sided" geometry:
killa+concept+Gransfors+B_1_1_1.jpg


[above photos courtesy of killa_concept]
...
Click to expand...
 
Interesting for sure. I have yet to see an axe bite deep enough in chopping use to where the bevels or the mid-blade hollow makes a difference. On my 2 1/4 pound Mann, the high centerline starts maybe 1 inche back from the edge, or something like that. The point being, it actually enters the "kerf" of the axe and I think makes a difference in function. I have an old John King single bit, made in Oakland Maine about 80 or so years ago, that has almost no hollowing when you lay a straight edge on it. There is maybe a 1/8th inch hollow just at the part where the eye is. Despite that, and the very thick bit, it cuts really well with a good edge and I have never had it bind. It releases from the cut on its own without any tugging or wiggling.
 
"snedding":confused:
this word is unfamiliar to me.
of course we are separated from you Brits by a common language.:D!@#$@&^%

thanks for your reply

buzz

i am glad someone has finally stated the differences between these two styles of axe designs,
refer to original description above
 
Last edited:
G-pig said:
Interesting for sure. I have yet to see an axe bite deep enough in chopping use to where the bevels or the mid-blade hollow makes a difference. On my 2 1/4 pound Mann, the high centerline starts maybe 1 inche back from the edge, or something like that. The point being, it actually enters the "kerf" of the axe and I think makes a difference in function. I have an old John King single bit, made in Oakland Maine about 80 or so years ago, that has almost no hollowing when you lay a straight edge on it. There is maybe a 1/8th inch hollow just at the part where the eye is. Despite that, and the very thick bit, it cuts really well with a good edge and I have never had it bind. It releases from the cut on its own without any tugging or wiggling.
Click to expand...

G-pig, if you have a moment sometime, it would be interesting to see a profile picture of that John King.

It seems to me that there is a certain trade-off. A thin axe will bind more, cut deeper, and dislodge chips less. A thick axe will bind less, cut shallower, and dislodge chips better. There are pro's and con's of both. In my mind, an axe that binds more has the distinct disadvantage of being more likely to suffer a broken handle, as tugging a stuck axe out of wood is one of the easiest ways to break the handle (other than an overstrike).
 
"A note: Gransfors advertise this as a limbing/snedding axe. The thin blade profile makes it perfect for this. By cross cutting/felling with it I am already pushing beyond what it is designed for. However, cutting a wide 'V' enables me to get away with it. I'm surprised that people buy these axes with splitting in mind. I'm also surprised that axe people have posted their disappointment with this axe because it has a thin, concave head shape as opposed to the convex head on a general purpose American axe. I've spent many years working as a Tree Surgeon and a forester (as did my father and grandfather). The techniques you are taught for snedding trees with a chainsaw (keep the bar of the saw flat on the stem of the tree and keeping the saw on the other side of the stem where possible) are exactly the same when snedding with the axe ( I suspect these techniques were passed from axe to chainsaw). The shape of the head enables you to keep the flat of the axe head on the stem with the edge of the bit always leading into the next branch where it joins the stem. This is more energy efficient and would be more difficult with a convex axe head. This axe is also designed with conifers in mind (plenty of them in Sweden). It manages most hardwood quite well however. "

this pretty well states the facts about the differences of purpose
buzz
 
I don't have a pic of the John King, but I have this picture of my Snow and Nealley double bit that has the same profile shape

Picture078.jpg
 
cooperhill said:
Thank you for your work. I do trailwork in a US national forest in New Hampshire.

I don't have the scandi but have a GB American felling axe. It is really nice axe. It's chops well and holds an edge well.

What model Silky saw do you use?
Click to expand...

Hi cooperhill, nice to meet a fellow trailworker:)

I use a Silky Gomtaro 12". This is probably the smallest they produce as a fixed blade but i also use it as a pruning saw when climbing and for fine work on things like gates and stiles so it's a bit of a jack of all trades:)

Sam
 
Steve Tall said:
From Wikipedia:

"Snedding is the process of stripping the side shoots and buds from the length of a branch or shoot, usually of a tree or woody shrub. Most commonly this process is performed during hedge laying.

The verb, "to sned", analogous to today's limbing, was also used by woodcutters in Scotland to refer to the process of removing branches from felled trees. Whether using an axe or a chainsaw the relative difficulty of snedding was a key measure of the difficulty of the job as a whole.

The word comes from the Scandinavian snäddare, meaning a smooth log via the Old English "snaedan"...
Click to expand...

Fascinating info from everyone, especially the WiKi info. Great pic's too:). I was clearing a couple of windblows today, one larch and one Douglas fir. I think I'd struggle to bury the head of the axe too far, there simply isn't enough weight in it. By the end of the Douglass the head was covered in a nice rustproof resin coat! Again it comes to the right tool for the job. Call me a wuss but i enjoy having a bit less weight to carry a few miles, when I get there I'll only have a couple of trees to deal with tops so I'm happy to chip away with a lighter axe. I think if I was working with an axe all day I'd be a lot fitter and looking for the best combination of efficiency and weight I could get my hands on. Funny, I was chatting to my dad about this and he said the most revolutionary development for my grandfather before the chainsaw was the bow saw. All of a sudden you had a cross cut saw which only needed one man. Something we forget these days:)

Sam
 
i keep several bow saws on the place.

the old American bow saw was a necessity in the old days of keeping a wood cook stove going in the winter here in north Mudzoory

i like making bow saws from round or green wood. when the green wood shrinks the blade gets even twangier tight.

i have enjoyed this thread.
all good


buzz
 
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