Gransfors Bruks Splitting Maul

bae

bae

Joined
Nov 21, 2001
Messages
848
My GB SPlitting Maul/Hammer Poll Axe just showed up in the mail this morning.

I was a little bit skeptical, as I've been using a much heavier Collins maul for years, but the GB Large Splitting Axe I got last week worked so nicely on small logs I thought I'd give the big guy a try.

Wow.

It's like a light saber for wood.

Probably 2-3 times as effective as the heavier Collins maul. It'll split things in one swat that required wedges and sledge before.

Just amazing. Plus, out of the box, it looked like you could shave with the thing.

I don't think I'll tell my wife about it - otherwise she'll find more chores for me to do with my newly freed up time.

If you have to split wood, get one. Now.
 
I've been using one for a couple of years. Both it AND the wedge would actually shave hair with the factory edges---no kidding.

I agree that the GB works better than a lot of heavier mauls. The geometry of the head must be just perfect. But the wedge, with its forged-in twist and friction reducing chevrons, is just as excellent.

I never let anyone else split with mine. More work for me, but it stays in good shape.
 
The problem with a lot of mauls is that they are wedged instead of convex and the edges are far too thick and blunt. One of the best features of the GB products is that they don't subscribe to the belief that sharper tools are more fragile. If a splitting maul has a blunt edge you lose a lot of force in crushing the wood against the edge instead of splitting down the grain.

-Cliff
 
Would you happen to have a link? I heat with wood, and as odd as it may seem I have a bad back and gas splitters are to hard on me. The lifting you know? And I can split faster than many gas splitters can.

This may be more than you want, but I will explain two ways I use. The first is with a mounting block, but this is slow, but the standard way.... Place the wood to be split on the block, and read the checking, move to it, ot move it to you, and give the wack...

I prefer since I live on a hard pack dirt road to set up the stove cut length wood in a circle, with all the checkings facing in. Then I wack each one, and move to the next. It makes no differenc to me if I fail to slpit one, or 6. I just keep splitting untill I complete the circle. Then I stop and rest. While resting I pick up any fallen pieces, and reset them for another go round. Usually most of the wood is split the first time, but still to big for the stove. I generally need 1/4 size.

I have used gas splitters and they are good for burls, and forks that never would split other wise, but in decent wood you can beat the machine. The wood I cut to stove length is 24" to 26" long. I try to stay 3 years ahead, but that don't always happen:rolleyes: Mac
 
Gransfors Bruks axes and mauls are Awesome.Nothing I have found even comes close to the outstanding quality and cutting ability. Most of the hillbillies I know use the junk from the hardware store and have never seen a fine Swedish axe. Once a guy tries one he has to have one. I sold one to a friend last week and he slept with it in bed for 3 nights like a new girlfriend. Daren

http://www.cutsforthknives.com
 
And I thought that my social life was in bad shape! I've got a harem of maybe 7 or 8 GBs, but none of them has ever made it into the bed. It would take something like the Fowler/Szilaski knife and hawk set for me to think about bending that rule!
 
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