Gransfors Bruks v. Himalayan Imports

Twindog

Gold Member
Joined
Apr 6, 2004
Messages
3,987
Two awesome choppers go head to head (clear winner)

I have to admit that when I got my Himalayan Imports WWII 18-inch khukuri, I was disappointed. I have seen nothing but raves on Bladeforums about these knives. I like modern knives with their perfect lines, so the rough finish on the blade and hand-forged character of the HI turned me off. The wood handle just didn't look tough, it looked fancy.

I also didn’t get the purpose of the three tiny fixed-blades then came with it. One didn’t even have a sharpened edge.

But the heft spoke of serious purpose, and the guarantee was certainly as good as it gets.

I liked my Gransfors Bruks carpenter hatchet immediately, even though it was a little rusty. OK, this is hand-forged, too, but it feels like it came out of a factory. It also has a wood handle, but it's hickory and nothing seems fancy or weak about it. I’ve had it for a couple of months and use it every day to split kindling for my stove. I liked this model because it has more heft and leverage than the wildlife hatchet.

I had been debating what to do with the HI khukuri. I thought of selling it, but the finish on the blade looked so bad (mostly a mirror finish, but it looked like someone had rubbed large parts of the blade with sandpaper) that I thought I’d take too much of a loss.

Then a big wind storm hit. Winds gusted up to 80 mph. I made a ton of electricity with my wind turbine and easily rode it out because everything around my cabin is well tied down. Wind storms are common here in the winter. I live off-grid in a remote area of the Olympic Peninsula.

But lots of trees and big branches came down, many landing on small conifers – cedars, fir, hemlock and spruce – that I had planted. It was going to take a lot of chopping to get all that wood off my trees.

So that became my test: the GB hatchet v. the HI khukuri.

It was quickly obvious that these were both serious choppers. They went through just about anything – mostly 1-inch to 4-inch branches. The HI was a little easier to swing, but the handle was slippery. The flared base was the only reason it didn’t slip out of my hand. I was wearing gloves that quickly became wet.

The GB was a better chopper, however. It’s sharp, and the heavy head adds real oommph. The HI would be a much, much better weapon -- scary awesome -- but in this test none of the branches were fighting back.

I kept switching off between the two. Both worked great, but the GB was obvioulsly more effective and easier to hang onto. I noticed that the rough area on the blade of the HI became rusty almost immediately. So much for selling it.

I thought I was going to say that the contest was relatively even, with the GB coming out a little better. But when I got back to my cabin to oil the blades, I noticed that the HI had two deflections (each about a quarter inch long) along the edge of the blade.

That cinched it for me: The Grandfors Bruks is the clear winner.
 
I keep a GB Small Forest Axe under the back seat of my truck and it will make small work of anything I have yet thrown it at. I was at my mom's place on the penninsula (near forks) cleaning up after a wind storn a week ago and used it to limb a couple of pretty good sized trees and it came through just fine. There was some dulling of the edge, but a little work with a pocket stone and it was back. Steven
 
The unsharpened accessory 'knife' is intended to be used for burnishing - similar to a butcher's steel. They can make a surprising difference in sharpness after a heavy chopping session.

I'm surprised to hear that the finish on your khuk was uneven - I've never heard of such a thing. Did you buy it secondhand or as a blem?

Anyway, the rust will come off in a few seconds of polishing, and some people prefer to buy khuks with a satin finish. You might have more luck selling it than you might expect.

You didn't clarify 'deflections', but if you think there's a problem with the workmanship on the blade, I suggest you contact Yangdu of HI. I'm sure she'll get things worked out. If they're minor deflections, I suggest you try sharpening the khuk once or twice - the polishing the kami's use to put the mirror polish on will sometimes soften the outer layer of the edge. More than a few people have found that the edge gets 'stronger' after the initial edge has been sharpened away.

I know khuks aren't for everyone, but if you're interested in trying to get a bit more out of your purchase, come on over and visit us in the HI forum - we don't bite. :D
 
Thanks, Kazeryu. I had no clue about the burnishing tool. This knife came with almost no information. The rust is in pitted areas, in the rough spots on the finish. I did not buy this as a blem, but as a first quality. The rolled edge (two areas, one to the right and one to the left, each about a quarter inch long and an eighth of an inch deep) is not severe, but enough to look like they will be difficult to sharpen away. These deflections are not workmanship issues. They didn't come with the khuk. The knife actually kept a good sharp edge, but couldn't take the torque of heavy chopping.

The sweet spot on the chopping power seems to be below the heavy and widest part of the blade, contrary to what I expected. Chopping on the heavy part is unstable and exposes the edge to torgue if the blow is not exactly struck. And these kuhks can develop a lot of torque.

There is a learning curve to Khuks that I have not mastered, but the hatchet is nonetheless more effective for chopping.
 
If you bought it as a first and it was pitted when it arrived, you might want to give Yangdu an email. She's absolutely incredible for customer service. :thumbup:
 
Where along the edge were the dents? This type of problem has been reported a few times before, it is usually addressed by a resharpening to a fuller convex profile. As noted the level of customer service is very high, there is no need to resell it, just return it.

-Cliff
 
I think the reason you had those deflections is because you chopped with the back part of the blade ( first 6" starting from the handle) that area is not hardened as far as I know. Only the first 6" starting from the tip of the blade is hard which is the part ur supposed to chop with not the back. I have a 18" Ang Khola and I mostly use the back part of the blade for cutting, I use the front part for chopping and had no problems with it. i have cut a 5" wide pvc pipe, chopped logs and 2x4 4x4 had no problems with it, however i had a small dent about 1/4" long and 1/16" deep when i hit a nail that was in a log, but all i had to do is sharpen the khuk and it was Ok.
 
The supposedly quench it with water they pour on the edge of the blade with a teapot. Because of this combined with the inherent curvature of the blade, sometimes the end and beginning of the blade are soft.
 
The blade is zone hardened on purpose, the tips and the edge leading towards the handle are a lot softer than the center of the curvature. There have been a few issues with the primary edge folding/chipping on a few models which is generally fixed with a regrind to a more suitable edge geometry.

-Cliff
 
The tip is left soft as it is argued that it takes severe impacts often and it keeps it from resisting fracture, the part towards the grip is not used for a lot of cutting traditionally so isn't hardened. Valiant Goloks are hardened in the same manner for likely the same reasons.

-Cliff
 
What proportion of the knives would anybody say is the soft tip/ grip edge. Both of the kukris that we own are fully hardened- and we bought them from a local guy who has his wifes relatives in Nepal make them?
Is it primarily HI knives?
 
HI does sell fully hardened ones, I had a villager which was really hard, even in the spine. Most if not all of the standard ones are zone hardened, as are the ones from Khukuri House who supply most of the smaller distributers.

-Cliff
 
Back
Top