Gransfors SFA put to use

Joined
Jan 13, 2005
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3
Until recently, I have only had a chance to chop some small stuff with my new Small Forrest Axe. A week ago I felled an apple tree with it. The tree had several trunks ranging from 3 to 6 + inches in diameter. The SFA performed beautifully.

For comparison, I took a few swings with my trusty Estwing 26" camp axe. The weight of the camp axe is distrubuted more evenly down into the handle making it a bit awkward in comparison to the SFA. While the camp axe has a larger head/longer edge and is heavier, I was able to do more work with less effort using the SFA. The camp axe is a great tool, I have felled trees with it. However, due to the odd distribution of weight, it is harder to use than a traditional axe.

The SFA went through 3 and 4 inch trunks and limbs in 10 or 12 strokes at most. The larger trunks took more work, but the SFA just cut right on into the wood. The length/weight/balance of the axe is superb. The head is only 1 1/2 pounds, but the design of the axe helps it do a lot of work.

I did notice that the bit goes deep on straight-in cuts. Very deep in fact. With one trunk I could only cut down and then straight in, but not up to make a vee cut. The angled cuts really removed wood, but the straight-in cuts sank deep. A couple of those and the blade got warm from the friction.

The handle shape surprised me. I had originally thought the sharp step at the bottom would help with holding on. I learned quite the contrary. The shape is, for me, slightly inferior to a sheeps foot design with a slight swell at the end. The handle could stand to turn a bit more for more leverage in the swing. This is not a complaint, mind you, I just have to get used to it.

The size of the SFA is just what I expected. The length allowed me to get a lot of power from my strokes. It is short enough, though, to use in tighter quarters (still safe, mind you) and carry easily.

Overall I am extremely pleased. The axe is more than adquate for making firewood from small stuff, and almost enough to fell small trees regularly. If I felled trees often, I would get a Scandinavian Forrest Axe and American felling axe. I would also like to have an axe with a larger head, like the Scandinavian's , on a shorter handle like the SFA. The extra weight would and larger bit would make for a great tool.

I have only used my Mini Hatchet for small stuff and taking a few limbs off a tree. It also does a lot of work for its size. More on that later.

jeff <><
 
Jeff, great review.

I agree on your SFA vs. Estwing 26" comparison having used both as well. My observations mirror yours.

The GB has better balance, accuracy, profile, steel (stronger, the Estwing is super soft and thus deforms really easy), shock absorbtion.

The Estwing is good to keep in your car though, break up ice, chop large fallen limbs on concrete, vehicle rescue if needed, etc.

The axe is more than adquate for making firewood from small stuff, and almost enough to fell small trees regularly.
Yes, the SFA is adequate for any bushcraft related task, from shelter, fire to raft building.

I bought my SFA after reading this article, and have been very happy with it as well.
http://www4.gvsu.edu/triert/cache/articles/ce1/cegb1b.htm
 
Jeff Holt said:
If I felled trees often, I would get a Scandinavian Forrest Axe and American felling axe.

I have not used the felling axe, but the bit profile is way too thick for anything but very soft woods, Iltis makes a nice felling axe for spruce, birch and oak. The GB forest axe is a really nice full size limbing axe though.

-Cliff
 
I have a real weakness for GB products and really enjoy the splitting axes and Maul. I don't have the felling axe as I inherited a great full size axe from my dad. It's made in Sweden and over 50 years old. The Scandanavians sure knew how to make a good axe. I am glad GB inherited this tradition.

The forest axe is an amazing limber and great all-rounder. I also love the hunter axe but admit an adversion to chopping bone with such a fine instrument. The size of the hunter is really useful...portable but a lot more power than a hatchet.
 
I don't think the hunter is called hunter because of bone chopping ability.
It is called the hunter because of the rounded poll used for skinning.
Instead of a normal poll that can be used for hammering.
Splitting ribcage and pelvis is different from chopping bones too.
 
It is promoted for chopping bone in the description on the GB website :
[font=Verdana,Arial,Helvetica][size=-2] Besides that the axe is good for chopping, in wood as well as meat and bones.[/size][/font]​
[font=Verdana,Arial,Helvetica][size=-2]
[/size][/font]-Cliff
 
I gotta think there is a translation problem there or something. The Hunter's I looked at was ground even thinner than the SFA. No way it can stand up to chopping bone unless the edge was seriously thickened.

I gotta guess they were thinking popping joints, not cleaving through bones.

For general utility, I prefer the slightly rougher and way flatter poll of the SFA.

See Eric's comments on the Hunter's axe at www.woodsdrummer.com
 
Yeah, when I first got the Wildlife axe I chipped the edge on some frozen knots, thick bone is way harder still. I sent them an email about this before I posted the above to see if they would clarify it.

-Cliff
 
Mine micro-chipped on caribou ribs at -20 the first time I used it. Mind you it helped me process five caribou. I admit to taking to using a cheap Normark or skinning axe that has no soul for actual hunting. The damn GB looks good on the wall mount though.

I followed Cliff's suggestion in an earlier correspondence and ground a blunter micro bevel on the GB and that made it much tougher...I still have a hard time taking on even light bone with such a fine tool however.

The Normark I lean into with abandon. I have also used an Eastwing and it's so soft steel is chip proof might bend a bit but easily fixed up and if slightly damaged who cares?
 
North61,
Great story!! I always appreciate information from people who have used their tools for their intended purposes.

That is a lot of Caribou!

I have enjoyed reading your posts, they have good information, a great perspective and just plain common sense. Very cool.

I have also used an Eastwing and it's so soft steel is chip proof might bend a bit but easily fixed up and if slightly damaged who cares?

Yes, I have a pair of Estwings, a 26" Campers axe and a leather handled Hatchet that I use for rough work as well. As you indicate, the steel is very soft, and I would not choose it as a wood craft tool but for abusive work it is great.

I use the 26" for chopping roots when pulling bushes, breaking ice and such. Things I would NEVER do with my Gransfors.
 
Knifetester you have to stop encouraging me as I finished building the deck and am on holidays. I have lots of time on my hands.

Cost of food is high here so my wife and I get 5-10 caribou/year. Far from caribou here so we have to travel 8-10 hours on road and ice road in the 95 Ford 4x4 and the Yamaha skidoo so we have started getting all our caribou in one go. For whatever reason I have found that my skills in skinning/cleaning and processing have grown a great deal from doing the work all at once rather than spreading it through the year as we used to. I have learned more on the last 15-20 caribou than I did on the many dozens before that spread out over time.

Perhaps one of the reasons is that here in the sub arctic it is warm enough (-20 C or warmer) that you can actually take your time and think about what you are doing.

Up in Nunavut I often hunted in -30 to -40 weather and brother it was always a race between processing and the hands and boo freezing. If you go fast enough the exposed caribou aill keep your hands warm.

I am no longer embarrassed when an elder comes buy and the RWED guys were actually pretty complimentary when they came to see our six caribou all neatly processed in the snow.

I use the Inuit style of animal processing where you:

1) Skin Completely
2) Remove rear legs/haunch and front legs/shoulder and the head
3) Gut
4) Remove backstrap and tenderloins
5) Remove Ribs
6) Wrap meat in skin to keep from freezing together or let freeze first then load so you don't get a solid mass of meat.

The axe speeds up removing the head and ribs. I'll try the GB hunter again this year and see if the micro-bevel does the trick.
 
knifetester said:
I gotta think there is a translation problem there or something. The Hunter's I looked at was ground even thinner than the SFA. No way it can stand up to chopping bone unless the edge was seriously thickened.

I gotta guess they were thinking popping joints, not cleaving through bones.

For general utility, I prefer the slightly rougher and way flatter poll of the SFA.

See Eric's comments on the Hunter's axe at www.woodsdrummer.com


I have indeed used my GB hunters axe to chop thru deer bones and it chipped the edge up pretty badly. I can't remember what forum I posted a pic of it on, but it had a lot of "micro serrations" after that ;) :rolleyes:

As somebody above noted the edge was very thin on mine also. I took it and put it on the belt sander and convexed it out to a little steeper angle but still very sharp and it chops fine. Have to wait till next deer season to let you know if it chips again.
 
Cliff Stamp said:
It is promoted for chopping bone in the description on the GB website :
[font=Verdana,Arial,Helvetica][size=-2] Besides that the axe is good for chopping, in wood as well as meat and bones.[/size][/font]​
[font=Verdana,Arial,Helvetica][size=-2]
[/size][/font]-Cliff
OK.
Did they mention any thing about the poll?
Or was that all they said?
Can you tell me why my GB round stone says "Course" instead of "Coarse"?
 
I asked them specifically if :

"The webpage on the hunters axe mentions "chopping in bone", does that
mean you can split a rib cage or whack off a deer leg?"

The answer was yes, the edge seems thin for me though for bone work.

-Cliff
 
Cliff Stamp said:
Yeah, when I first got the Wildlife axe I chipped the edge on some frozen knots, thick bone is way harder still. I sent them an email about this before I posted the above to see if they would clarify it.

-Cliff

I used my GB Hunters axe to chop some bone on a deer I was butchering last fall. I was just using it to chop the joints off the legs. It chipped up the edge pretty severely. I can't recall which forum I posted the pics on. I put it on the belt sander, reconvexed it and it was good as new, or maybe better I don't know, but mine at least did not seem to stand up to the bone.

I put a bit of a more polished and slightly steeper edge on mine, still razor sharp and seems to cut wood as well, but I'm hoping I can use it for bone I'll
let you know.
 
Thanks, I would be interested in the results. I stopped paying attention to the performance of NIB edges a long time ago, way too often if you resharpen the performance, in particular the durability is massively increased.

-Cliff
 
But I'm glad that the GB performs well. I my comparisons between Snow and Neally (a company over 100 years old and in the US) The heads were respectively heavier in the S & N on each model that was similar to the GB. I went with one and loved it. For instance the GB hatchet is 1lb whereas the SN is 1.25. Same for other models. More hatchet and head weight for the same length ax.

I'm still going to get a GB for the reputation though mine is holding up great.

I'm just providing another alternative.

Cliff
 
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