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The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is$300$250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
Graymaker Bowie & Wild Rose Sheath-Chapter 2
- Thread starter Wild Rose
- Start date
- Joined
- Dec 7, 2000
- Messages
- 5,179
Well I'm left speechless... Dan you have outdone yourself with that knife, that must be the most beautiful thing you've done yet. I don't even know where to start, except to say I'll dream about that grind.
Chuck, no one could have sheathed that beauty better. What is along the edges of the sheath? Is that leather overlay also? I find myself as interested in the construction of the sheath as the knife, but far more in the dark. What work!
Are you guys bringing this to Blade by any chance? See, I keep asking this and my list of people & places to see will become impossible.
Dave
Chuck, no one could have sheathed that beauty better. What is along the edges of the sheath? Is that leather overlay also? I find myself as interested in the construction of the sheath as the knife, but far more in the dark. What work!
Are you guys bringing this to Blade by any chance? See, I keep asking this and my list of people & places to see will become impossible.
Dave
- Joined
- Jul 8, 2001
- Messages
- 849
A great Knife and Sheath. Fantastic!!! Gib
- Joined
- Feb 15, 1999
- Messages
- 11,566
Nice Combo. Dan is the Man.
- Joined
- Feb 6, 2000
- Messages
- 3,021
That grind is scary sweet!!
The sheath really matches it too. I love the way the mouth of the sheath blends into the handle
- Joined
- Aug 23, 2002
- Messages
- 1,398
Thanks guys. Dan can tell you more about the knife, but I do know it's a repro of a G Wostenholm original of which only 5 are know to be in existence with this style blade. Saw one of those recently on an auction site and the minimum bid was $50K!
Dave D - This one won't be at Blade (and neither will I
) - it's on it's way to the owner who has been patiently waiting for it and the sheath.
The construction is a 8oz vegtan core - two sides and a welt glued together. I then rounded the edges and covered it with a piece of 3oz to which the Sterling concho is attached. I ran a groove along the top of each edge. The cover is wrapped like you would a center seam sheath. The carved pieces - a Turkish/Persian motif - at the mouth and tip are 4/5oz. The mouth is fully wrapped around the top and glued down with an overlap. The two ends are skived to a feather edge before overlapping to reduce bulk. Sorry I didn't get a chance to get a photo of the back side. I used a 1" rectangular metal loop to which the leather belt loop is attached.
The tip is made up of three separate pieces. The front carved piece, a back piece, an edge strip. This is where it gets REAL painstaking. The edges of both pieces are fitted close to the outline of the core and then skived to a feather edge. They are then carefully aligned, first the front and then the back, and glued down. The face is dampened lightly along the edges and they are then trimmed and fitted to meet along the centerline of the edges. It always wants to "wrinkle" at the tip, but if you have skived it thin enough you can work it - aka rub it - smooth. Let sit for 24 hours. Carefully scribe a pair of lines 1/8" to 3/16" wide straddling the center line along the edge of the tip only. Even more carefully scruff up BETWEEN the lines with a piece of fresh 120 grit. Then cut a piece of commercial lace, either 1/8" or 3/16" to match (I have also made my own lace, but the best quality commercial works very well)that is long enough to fit all the way around the tip with a little on each end to spare. Then use a good contact cement and a fine brush evenly spread a coat of the glue between the lines and on the back of the lace. I usually put two or three thin coats - you want it to glisten with glue but have no thick buildup. Finally start at one end of the tip and wrap the lace around it pressing down as you go - making sure that it is glued down solidly and between the lines. After it's attached from end to end rub it down with a good rub stick, trim any excess lace at the ends, and if everything went right break out the Beer! Look closely along the edges of the lace strip and if there is any exposed glue immediately take a rubber eraser and carefully rub along the length of the edges of the lace to remove. DO NOT use thinner to remove as it will loosen the glue under the lace and then you might as well start over.
Leave the whole thing sit for 24-48 hours before dying and finishing.
When done right the glue will hold forever.
Dave D - This one won't be at Blade (and neither will I
) - it's on it's way to the owner who has been patiently waiting for it and the sheath. The construction is a 8oz vegtan core - two sides and a welt glued together. I then rounded the edges and covered it with a piece of 3oz to which the Sterling concho is attached. I ran a groove along the top of each edge. The cover is wrapped like you would a center seam sheath. The carved pieces - a Turkish/Persian motif - at the mouth and tip are 4/5oz. The mouth is fully wrapped around the top and glued down with an overlap. The two ends are skived to a feather edge before overlapping to reduce bulk. Sorry I didn't get a chance to get a photo of the back side. I used a 1" rectangular metal loop to which the leather belt loop is attached.
The tip is made up of three separate pieces. The front carved piece, a back piece, an edge strip. This is where it gets REAL painstaking. The edges of both pieces are fitted close to the outline of the core and then skived to a feather edge. They are then carefully aligned, first the front and then the back, and glued down. The face is dampened lightly along the edges and they are then trimmed and fitted to meet along the centerline of the edges. It always wants to "wrinkle" at the tip, but if you have skived it thin enough you can work it - aka rub it - smooth. Let sit for 24 hours. Carefully scribe a pair of lines 1/8" to 3/16" wide straddling the center line along the edge of the tip only. Even more carefully scruff up BETWEEN the lines with a piece of fresh 120 grit. Then cut a piece of commercial lace, either 1/8" or 3/16" to match (I have also made my own lace, but the best quality commercial works very well)that is long enough to fit all the way around the tip with a little on each end to spare. Then use a good contact cement and a fine brush evenly spread a coat of the glue between the lines and on the back of the lace. I usually put two or three thin coats - you want it to glisten with glue but have no thick buildup. Finally start at one end of the tip and wrap the lace around it pressing down as you go - making sure that it is glued down solidly and between the lines. After it's attached from end to end rub it down with a good rub stick, trim any excess lace at the ends, and if everything went right break out the Beer! Look closely along the edges of the lace strip and if there is any exposed glue immediately take a rubber eraser and carefully rub along the length of the edges of the lace to remove. DO NOT use thinner to remove as it will loosen the glue under the lace and then you might as well start over.
Leave the whole thing sit for 24-48 hours before dying and finishing.
When done right the glue will hold forever.
- Joined
- Mar 14, 2000
- Messages
- 509
Holy freakin' crap Batman... Beautiful on both accounts! Absolutely outstanding work both of you. I hope that someday I can make a knife as nice as that and deserving of a sheath like that. It's because of pictures like these that I don't post pic's of any of my knives.
Rick
Rick