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Greek Swords?

Joined
Aug 23, 2004
Messages
1,499
Hi all,

Just wondering if any of you have heard of any leaf-blade short swords (ancient greekish) that are of usable quality. I've found a couple by Windlass, but I'm not sure about them.

Any knowledge here?

Nam
 
They arent really greek style but they are leaf blades. Look at www.allsaintsblades.com/museum.htm and look at the 21st century section. This is the main storefront for Angus Trim (ATrim). These are probably the MOST USEABLE swords on the market. They have a low end polish so you shouldn't worry about scratching them, beating them up, what ever (but just like a HI product you should not go out and beat on a 55gal. drum and *expect* it to survive, though it probably will).

You can get hilt upgrades through www.christianfletcher.com. He gets most of his blades from Angus and Albion Armorers (albion-swords.com). They are both very good but albion has more historically accurate fittings than a standard ATrim.

To order them you need to go through another site due to health issues with the guy who actually runs allsaintsblades. I think you can order any of ATrims swords (including the ones listed at all saints) through www.atrimasa.com and www.christianfletcher.com but I need to check to double check that.

My name is Jacob and I am a swordahollic :D :rolleyes:
 
I think they're known as the Xiphos or something like that?

Anyhoo, you can get a decent one in Australia at a pretty good price (considering the exchange rate down here in OZ) and it's made to really great standards.

www.manningimperial.com

Craig Sich (Sitch?) is a fantastic guy. I've spoken to him a few times and he's actually met Peter Lion (the guy who made swords for the LOTR Movies) and apparently, Peter Lion pretty much took whatever he knew from Craig!
 
I have an Al Massey Leafblade. It is a bit larger than a greek blade, with a 23" blade, and it is about 28" overall (33 oz). I spelled out the length of blade, width, etc.

Check out his web site. I haven't looked for awhile, but there used to be a link at the swordforum web site.

Massey will do his designs, or alter them to suit you - but does not do Asian styles. His blades are through-hardened.

He prices blades by the inch, but will charge at a higher rate for Damascus.
The price was much lower than Albion or ATRIM, and it is a hand-forged blade.

Since it is hand forged, there will be some variation in it, but I highly recommend Massey. I love the sword - As I recall, he charged $15 per inch of blade, with a higher price for special handle materials. He does daggers as well.

You need to be very clear about what you want, and whether you want a base mode or a "pretty sword" with a fine finish. Try a search on the Swordforum for examples of his work and to get his web site.
I waited about 5 months, but it was worth the wait.
 
Hi There
I have swords from both Craig Sitch and Peter Lyons and would say that they each make weapons in their own style. Unfortunately Peter doesn't seem to be available for private work these days although I did see him at a jousting meet last weekend. Craig is a great guy, if sometimes hard to contact, and would make you exactly what you want without a silly price tag.
Phil :)
 
I would like to comment on finish qualities and forging.

The finish on ATrims comes from not wanting to increase the cost of a tool that is ment to be used and scratched up. The finish on an Al Massey blade is similar as he does not want to take the time it takes to clean it up. It does not mean that it is more "historically accurate" or better in any way. It just means that Al does/did not want to remove the hammer mark which he has ample opprotunity to do so. The finish is not a sign of being a stock removal sword or a forged sword but of how clean you want it to look. So while the finish on an Atrim is like a HI villager and the finish on an albion is more like an HI export.

One of the differances between Albion, ATrim, and Al is tang designs. ATrims are hardened the same and tempered the same throughout. He uses a threaded tang with a pommel nut. This makes for ease of cleaning if necessary and ease of customization. Albion hot peens their tangs for security, but I am not sure about their heat treat as they have not published that article yet. Al cuts off whatever handle he used while forging the sword, welds a piece of mild steel on, and heat treats the blade, not the ricasso or tang. I have never heard of one of his swords failing due to this, but I have heard of many wallhangers that have failed due to welded on tangs.

BTW, what is your budget like?

If it is only a couple hundred then your options for a decent blade might be limited. if it is a bit higher then you might be able to get a christian fletcher (whose leafblades come from albion, but you can get the hilt of an ATrim customed).

Youmight also look here for sword reviews, but I'm not sure if they have any leafblades.
http://www.myarmoury.com/home.html
 
As for the price, Yoiparri, we can consider this a "wish list" item! :D

My interest is serious, but my ability to get it is limited. This is just a serious curiosity for now. :)

Al Massey looks pretty good. Yoi, you mentioned that his tangs are welded. This is of some concern. I'd like to hear more about this. He says, however, that he makes all of his swords as users, and warrants them against defects in normal use. Sounds like they must be reliable, or he wouldn't do this. Also, if his stuff wasn't good, we'd hear about on the net. So far, only positive stuff (except the finish stuff).

I will also look into the others, just haven't had time yet.

Thanks for input, fellas. Appreciate your wisdom as always.

Nam
 
Kris Cutlery makes a celtic style leaf blade that has had many good reviews. I do not own one yet, but I will eventually. It is more of a chopper than some of the narrower greek swords, though.

stevo
 
Hi - I got this email from Massey:

"I'm actually in the process of getting another website set up. As for the
tang construction, it depends on the nature of the piece, i.e, threaded on
or riveted end of the tang. I use mild steel for part of the tang if there
is going to be a lot of peening down at the end. What I use is an
interlocking forge weld, which gives a mechanical as well as a welded joint."

"This is a thread I started on tangs..."
http://forums.swordforum.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=43522&highlight=Massey

From what I can tell, he did not use a weld on mine, because it was a smaller blade with a threaded on end of the tang.
 
As I said. I have not heard of any problems with his tangs, just that I have heard of similar styles of tangs that inherintly have problems.

He is a good smith and all and the only things that I have heard about his work one way or the other is that his polish is pretty rough and his tangs and ricasso area is un hardened and some of it is welded on.

On the other hand I have heard nothing but praise for people like Angus Trim, Michael "Tinker" Pierce, John Lundemo (of odinblades), and Rick Barrett. Those last two are high end custom smiths and have a good sized waiting list but if you wanted something real specific (or if you gave them a general idea) and had a little money to throw at it they would be the first on my list.

I just rememberd this and decided that a leafblade discussion could not go with out at least mentioning it.
 
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