Green polishing compound?

[Nogorn]

Is this the best edge i will get with green compound on a leather strop?
[video=youtube;9lsgsdAheQU]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9lsgsdAheQU[/video]

 

[Nogorn]

The lower portion of the blade is the only sharpened part. The upper part thats not clear at all is not sharpened. Im talking about the slight foggyness of the bottom portion of the blade.

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

Is it just me, or was there no demo of the cutting? Hard to say if the edge is 'best' or not. The polished bevel looks pretty good. How it cuts will be the best indicator, as opposed to how polished it looks. If it cuts well (paper slicing, shaving, hair-whittling, etc.) and is durable in doing so, then I'd say the edge is pretty good.

Whether the edge can be improved on the strop or not, depends more on the work done on the stones, prior to stropping. If that's done to completion, then the green compound will be that much better in refining it. If the stone work isn't done as well (edge not apexed), then green compound by itself won't likely help much.


David

 

[Nogorn]

Its sharp enough to shave with and can slice paper with ease. Keep in mind its a no name knife with stainless steel for the blade. it dulls fast. I was just wondering about getting a less foggy edge.

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

The lower portion of the blade is the only sharpened part. The upper part thats not clear at all is not sharpened. Im talking about the slight foggyness of the bottom portion of the blade.

The 'foggyness' is probably a result of not refining the scratch patterns during sharpening, prior to stropping. Green compound is very fine, and won't remove heavier scratches from coarser sharpening stages by itself. Taking each grit as far as possible, to reduce the depth/width of the scratches, will do more to help make a high polish later on, with the strop & compound.

There's always a possibility of strop contamination too. Any coarse dirt/stone grit or other debris on the strop can produce new scratches, which will contribute to the 'foggy' haze on the polished bevels.


David

 

[Nogorn]

Thanks. I guess maybe i just need to work on the stones longer. I hate the ceramic stones though. They get clogged with steel just after a few passes and there near impossible to clean easily like lower grits.

 

[Bigfattyt]

I was waiting for any kind of demonstration of sharpness.

Shiny? May not be sharp.

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

Thanks. I guess maybe i just need to work on the stones longer. I hate the ceramic stones though. They get clogged with steel just after a few passes and there near impossible to clean easily like lower grits.

Some tips to help clean your ceramics, and even to slow down how fast they clog:

• Using some lube on the ceramic, like water + dish detergent, or even mineral oil, can help to keep the swarf from clogging it so fast. The water + dish soap can obviously be used afterwards, to clean it up. This is what I usually do after each sharpening session.
  
  
• When it does get dirty, using some Comet/Ajax with water, as a paste, can scrub a lot of that away.
  
  
• If it's really dirty and clogged, Bar Keepers Friend powder, mixed to a paste with water and scrubbed, works better than anything, and will leave the ceramic in almost-new shape. It contains oxalic acid, which literally dissolves the iron in the swarf. Needs to be used carefully, so read the warnings on the container and heed them.
  

David