Grind and finish opinions please !!!

Battle Creek Knives

Battle Creek Knives

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Feb 23, 2010
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I'm looking to hear some feedback from you pros out there.. this is my first knife grind in its rough state, I kinda like where its at now and won't be taking it all the way to the lines.. I still have some file work to do around the choil area and obviously its far away from finished..

what type of grind should I put on this one?? at first I was going for a scandi, but now I'm kinda unsure.. any tips on scribing the center freehand??

any and all comments welcome, especially the critical ones..

aol 8 3/4", blade 4", 1/8" stock

Thanks !!!
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Looks like a scandi design to me, I would do a grind line about 1/3 the blade width at the choil.
 
Any height grind would look good with that blade. I'd personally go with a high flat grind.

As far as finish options go, I always machine satin finish all of my blades. I rough grind with a 60 grit Blaze, then a 180 3M Gator, and then go to a very fine green scotchbrite belt. This puts a super finish on any knife. It's very nice looking.

Maybe you can get your center line by marking the edge with a sharpie, and then taking a drill bit that's the same height as your steel thickness, lay them both flat on a flat surface, and run the edge along the tip of the bit? Sounds pretty easy to me. Save you from buying an expensive scribe.
 
Full flat grind. With thin stock like that it won't take much work and you'll get a nice keen bevel. The Sharpie/drill bit trick isn't perfect but it does work.
 
psycho78 said:
Maybe you can get your center line by marking the edge with a sharpie, and then taking a drill bit that's the same height as your steel thickness, lay them both flat on a flat surface, and run the edge along the tip of the bit? Sounds pretty easy to me. Save you from buying an expensive scribe.
Click to expand...

The cost of the scribe is what I'm trying to avoid at the moment, I need more of the essential tools right now and would like to build a forge and have a hand HT myself.. That sounds like a good trick I'll have to try that and see how it goes..

right now I have a 1x36 I've had for a while I've used to sharpen my knives, its ok for some things but I know I'm going to have to step up and I'm not sure I can get a scotch brite belt in that size..

thinking about selling more of my knives to fund my new found love :)
 
Clamp a drill bit to the table and pull your blade edge across it after blacking it out with a sharpie. Flip the blade and do it again. Unless luck up and find a drill bit that's the exact thickness of your blade with an exactly centered point, you'll end up with a wide scribe line or, even better, a narrow double line. Do this on the flattest surface you can find. My experience is that you need to clamp the bit so it doesn't move and screw up your line.

I'd flat grind it also.
 
Using a drill bit is the most cost effective way of scribing a center line.
For grins and giggles you could take a piece of your 1/8 inch steel and file a point, harden it and make your own "custom" center scribe.

I vote for a scandi grind, as J Hoover said, take the bevel 1/3 of the way up the blade.

- Paul Meske
 
Seeing as how you are working with 1/8" stock, a scandi grind ground at 12 degrees per side will not go very far up the blade. At 12 degrees you will be ground to the center of the edge in a hurry. Take into account how a scandi grind is sharpened and I think a full flat grind would serve you better. With the scandi the blade will be at full width [1/8"] very close to the edge which would not facilitate its cutting ability.

Post a pic when you have completed whatever route you take. Fred
 
Okay I think the scandi is out (for now) although I've already ground another blank just like this one so I may do flat and a scandi version, micarta/wood version :D...

but first things first, I must finish this blade !!! I still have more supplies to buy!!!! is this common?? :)

Fred I guess I'll have to wait til after 9 tonight to see if I need to scribe this thing or not ;)
 
I broke down and bought a scribe from TKS many years ago. For me, it IS an essential tool. My grinds would be crap without having those reference lines.

I've found that early processes affect later ones alot. So for me, uneven grind lines lead to poor geometry, warped blades, and a scrapped knife. I think the scribe is worth it. The drill bit is ok in a pinch though.
 
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