grind angle on CQC-7B? Detent issues?

[Lothar.OTHP]

Is it the same as on the -7A? Just curious, before I go and buy.

I also wanted to know if the detent hold was as loose on the -7B. I pulled out my -7A the other day, and just in the movement required to hand it to a friend, the blade flipped open, and I damn near stabbed him... is it supposed to be that loose?

 

[wire edge]

My "A" has a more acute angle than that of my "B", as in, the grind is higher on the "A".

Secondly, it sounds like the second detent isn't engaging. I have had one that was this way, a small QC problem. If your sure it's engaging, tighten the pivot a small bit. That's how I keep the blades closed on the models I've taken the second detent out of.

 

[biogon]

The grind on my 7b is very steep.

In fact, I've been trying to reprofile it with a Lansky (non-diamond) and it's a bzatch. The angle flattens out, even at the "30 degree" marking, very significantly. The exposed metal almost doubles in length. I can't seem to raise a burr on it... but I'll get it eventually.

If the blade is too loose, you can try two things.
1) Disassemble the knife and nudge the secondary detent over with a screwdriver so it engages the blade more tightly.

2) Tighten the pivot screw.

I find the first helps to make the "sucking and keeping closed" feel stronger, whereas the second just makes the whole action stiffer.

Hope this helps.

-Jon

 

[Lothar.OTHP]

ok, biogon... by "nudge over" the secondary with a screwdriver... do you mean farther through the liner?

If it's a QC thing, should I maybe just send it back and see if they can fix it there? I've tried tightening the pivot screw, and it's about as tight as I can go wihtout making the action too stiff.

I had to re-grind my -7A, too. Lansky, etc... but I will say this: I hate lansky set up normally, (I'm a freehand person) but for a constant angle, it helped on that project.

Jury's out on buying a 7B, with the grind angle and the detent issues on the one I have now... but many thanks for the info so far.

 

[biogon]

Yep, farther through the liner, towards the blade, away from the scales -- i.e. more towards the "inside" of the blade (if it were still assembled).

The idea is that the ball detent pushes up against a dip in the blade to hold it shut. If you bend the secondary detent such that it pushes the ball bearing harder into the dip, it'll stay shut harder.

Mine didn't have a detent issue really. It didn't open by itself or anything; I just prefer a really tight shut.

The grind, however, is irritating. I'm going to try the instructions on Emerson's site next...

Hope this helps.

-Jon

 

[Lothar.OTHP]

It helps a lot Jon, thanks... I'll give it a try tonite.

As far as re-grinding the blade, the Lansky rig seemed the easiest way. I was at it for well over an hour, starting with the rouger stones. For some reason the burr never really completely formed. There was a real slight one when I finished, but stropping it on the back of an old notebook seemed to help a lot. There's a lot more metal showing across the grind now. It's not really shaving sharp, more like a working sharp, but it cuts really well. I thought about doing a regular v-grind, but it seemed like it would remove maybe too much metal that way. Maybe if I'd thoght about it before doing the grind, it would have worked out. If the grind angle is so much more ("duller," if you can really apply the term to an Emerson) then maybe you'd have more luck with a v-grind, assuming there's a primary bevel on the other side of the blade. (Beveled up to the edge, as opposed to a completely flat surface... I can't tell from the publicity photos if it's beveled on both sides like my 7A is.

Other than that, not much I can say, except be patient while you're doing it. The lansky helps some, keeping the angle for you while you're watching TV ro listening to some tunes. Sharpening's not really a good thing to do on autopilot when you're reworking a grnid angle. You can always tune back in during commercials, though.

Have fun, and thanks again.

-James