Grind Influences Performance

David Martin

David Martin

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I'll get a photo posted of some knives that we just tested on how they cut crip apples. After
seeing some feed-back in another topic I though there maybe some interest in discussing this topic. Please, chime in with your thoughts or experiences. Thanks, DM
 
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The cuts were made by standing the apples and pushing the blade through at each 3/16" thick slice. All the blades were sharpened on the fine India or fine crystolon and end burrs removed on the x fine diamond. With as few lite strokes as possible & water on the stone. Some of these
steels are more burr prone than others. We were wanting to just test the grind geometry. Not the edge retention of the steel. Our thinking was to get at which grind / blade profile cut with the least resistance. Plus, a firm apple, not like cutting soft cheese. More like preparing potatoes. So, began thinking on this. DM
 
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With all these knives having various grinds we (my wife and I) mostly push cut several slices of firm, crisp, apples. We did not discuss w/ each other which blades we thought performed the cuts the best. Then after we had cut enough and were firm on our alignment of first to last, (blade requiring least effort to requiring most to make the cuts). We then put them in the chosen arrangement and told why we thought this.
My wife went first. I'll say the top knife should not be in this grouping as it's a custom with fuller, thinner hollow grind and mirror polished w/ 440C. The second blade is a Buck 1993 so, 420 steel w/ thinner hollow grind. Third is SK's contract 110 w/ s90v blade and drop point. Fourth
is Buck's contract 334 Millennium Trapper w/ 420 steel and full flat grind. Fifth is Buck's 111 Classic a 3 dot blade w/ clip point.
I'll give you till 2 pm to guess what alignment we picked based on how they cut. DM
 
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Top to bottom is too obvious. :)
So, I'll guess bottom to top, even though (generally speaking) a thinner blade slices best, but you may have given it a 70° or 80° inclusive edge, which would not cut as well as a shallower edge.)
And I'll agree with jbmonkey jbmonkey . I find it difficult to believe that three could out-slice the trapper ...
 
1 - the top knife custom with fuller, thinner hollow grind and mirror polished w/ 440C
4 - 334 Millennium Trapper w/ 420 steel and full flat grind
3 - SK's contract 110 w/ s90v blade and drop point
2 - second blade is a Buck 1993 so, 420 steel w/ thinner hollow grind
5 - Buck's 111 Classic a 3 dot blade w/ clip point.
 
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I'm some late getting back. The results: my wife and I were in agreement on the top 2 knives, which were the sod buster and the thin blade Bucklite clip point. There was not doubt in either of our minds. Those 2 were the top cutters on the apple. The next pair we were in disagreement about. She picked it just as the photo shows; the #3 knife being SK's 110 drop point w/ s90v steel and 4 the 334 Camillus Trapper with full flat grind. My pick on this middle pair was these two switched. #3 being the 334 Trapper and #4 SK's drop point in s90v steel.
So, this middle pair is real close. The last blade had not been thinned and it had a broken point when I purchased it. Which I restored. Still, this
blade needs some thinning to be in the same class as the others. Even though it is mirror polished it had a thick profile and required more force to make the cuts but was still a good cutting steel.
Which leads me to a top point with this: steel type is not a major part of the way a blade cuts. (2 of the tops was 420 steel) Perhaps how long it cuts.
Point 2, one would have to purchase a custom ground blade to notice much difference in cutting enhancement and all of these are not made head and shoulders above. As there were only 'subtle' differences in how the top 4 cut. Feel free to disagree, I'll respect your opinion. I still have a pumpkin and can run the test again on this material. Thanks, DM
 
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