Grind question...

Joined
Mar 20, 2015
Messages
3
Hello all!

Just got my first in two areas. 1: My first Fiddleback! (And I love it! The craftsmanship is incredible!) 2: this is my first convex grind.

My question, it seems as though there is a secondary bevel on the grind. Is this normal or am I just showing my ignorance (Constructive criticism please...)? I can clearly see a particular portion of the knife that is more polished and as I look at the back of the blade at the tip, I can definitely see a second angle that breaks away from the convex grind.
 
Hi and welcome aboard!

All Fiddleback convex knives have a secondary convex bevel. It makes them easy to maintain. I have found though, that after years of use and stropping, the secondary edge shoulder can be worn away. I've got convex knives with and without the sec bevel. I like them both just the same.

Post up pics of your knife if you can! :)
 
Gearhead,
Welcome, and congrats on the knife. One thread I found interesting and helpful is on Fletcher Knives page here on Bladeforums. Dylan Fletcher was an apprentice under Andy a few years ago. He has a thread called "new sharpening video" or something like that. The video shows how Dylan sharpens his blades. It's also a method I want to try.

The care and maintenance thread is a really good resource as well.
Have fun with the Fiddleback. One more thing - pics or it didn't happen :D
 
Someone correct me if I'm wrong please, but I believe Andy uses a convexed grind on the flats of the blade, but they don't come with a convexed edge.

When my Bushboot arrived from the forge it had a sharpened bevel with a tiny micro-bevel on it as far as I could see with 60X magnification. It's not too much work to make the edge convexed as well if you want to though.
 
Heya Gearhead, welcome to the forum.

Here's what Andy said on the matter a couple years ago:

...

I put the edge bevel on the knife so that it is stronger (I have to warranty this knife) and easy to maintain and sharpen. Dylan uses stones, Ron uses ceramic rods, I use sandpaper over leather. I never scratch up my blade, and neither to the others. The steel is 01. It is the easiest steel there is to sharpen. Guys, if you want to pushcut paper and shave with your knives, simply polish the edge. You don't have to zero grind your knives to get this sharpness. You just have to polish the edge up.

...

See his full post here: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...r-micro-bevel-and-why?p=11933410#post11933410

It contains some good info about sharpness and cutting performance.
 
Here you go! It certainly isn't the most beautiful or elaborate one I have seen here... But strangely enough the burlap handles that Andy does has, for some reason, peaked my interest. It's no exotic looking wood but it's mine and I love it!





So much so that despite the size and how far down it hangs on my belt, it has become a mainstay in my everyday carry. I'll have to make a higher ride holster here pretty soon.





Thanks for the prompt reply guys.
 
Someone correct me if I'm wrong please, but I believe Andy uses a convexed grind on the flats of the blade, but they don't come with a convexed edge.

When my Bushboot arrived from the forge it had a sharpened bevel with a tiny micro-bevel on it as far as I could see with 60X magnification. It's not too much work to make the edge convexed as well if you want to though.

I am fairly confident the secondary bevel is convex as well. Andy sharpens his knives with sandpaper over leather. This sharpening method will produce a convex edge due to the surface not being completely flat (it has some give).
 
Congrats on your first Fiddleback. I'd say there's no universal norm when it comes to grind types/combinations. My recommendation would be to use it and see how it works for your application. As someone quoted Andy already, O1 is a fairly easy steel to sharpen, so you can always extend the secondary bevel to achieve a shallower angle, and/or polish the edge up with higher grit sharpening medium of your choice.
 
the secondary bevel is actually convex due to the bevel is set on a slack belt then followed by a leather belt strop.
 
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