Grind Question

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WoodenChicken

Joined
Sep 11, 2008
Messages
633
Okay, I don't know squat about knives compared to most people here, so let me ask this:
I have read a thread about the "obtuse grind" on the Delica, and I also had trouble sharpening that grind (will send it off soon). It seems the "full flat grind" is the sharpest or more favored blade?
If this is true that grind slices or cuts better, why do manufacturers not just use "full flat grind" on all knives? :confused:
 
i can send you pictures of how you can keep the edge touched up if you want it sharpened in a convex edge. send me an email and i'll send you pictures of how to maintain the edge. if you want to read about my sharpening ability, check out this thread. http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?p=6289413#post6289413
i have been told that i get my knives too sharp. since you are in new jersey, contact jtr357, if you are close, i'm sure he will let you check it out firsthand and you can decide for yourself.
 
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The reason we have quite a few different edge grinds is the same as why we have different types of knives and steels. Each has it's own strong points, and weaknesses. They're not too restrictive though, as a convex can be used for nearly everything, as can a full flat, and every other. It's just that convex grinds are generally more suited for heavy chopping, while a hollow ground is a good slicer.

Full flat is sort of the jack of all trades. It's simple, it's the type of grind you would expect on a knife as an average user, I suppose. They're decent at everything, from my experience, and easy to keep up on stones.

That being said I wouldn't say full flat is the "Sharpest", which depends very heavily on the materials and the sharpening as well. If you simply mean the closest though to a scalpel then I guess that would have to be a hollowground, but it's also a tad bit weaker than a convex edge.
So again, the grind all depends on your end use, choose accordingly. And also don't be affraid to pick something you're comfortable with, if you can't adequately maintain it, while you might be able to do just that on another grind, then it's no good either.

As many have said before me; Your Milage May Vary.
-Jody.
 
WoodenChicken said:
Okay, I don't know squat about knives compared to most people here, so let me ask this:
I have read a thread about the "obtuse grind" on the Delica, and I also had trouble sharpening that grind (will send it off soon). It seems the "full flat grind" is the sharpest or more favored blade?
If this is true that grind slices or cuts better, why do manufacturers not just use "full flat grind" on all knives? :confused:
Click to expand...

The full flat grind refers to the primary grind, while the obtuse comment refers to the edge grind. You might want to check out the FAQ's, I think they have illustrations which will make it clear.
 
with a convex edge, you can get by without using any stones and just a piece of abrasive cloth and a somewhat soft backing if you are on an outing. if you dont want to carry stones, this is the way to go.
 
WoodenChicken said:
Okay, I don't know squat about knives compared to most people here, so let me ask this:
I have read a thread about the "obtuse grind" on the Delica, and I also had trouble sharpening that grind (will send it off soon). It seems the "full flat grind" is the sharpest or more favored blade?
If this is true that grind slices or cuts better, why do manufacturers not just use "full flat grind" on all knives? :confused:
Click to expand...

It's not quite that simple. If there was one "perfect grind" then none of us would be here. ;) The fact is that some grinds are better for slicing while others are better suited for cutting or chopping.

A full flat grind isn't always the sharpest. One has to take into account the particulars of the steel being used, edge geometry, thickness, etc. For example: My hollow ground Sebenza easily out-slices my flat ground Strider SnG while my Scandinavian ground Puukko will leave them both in the dust as far as pure slicing is concerned.

Horses for courses...

Edited to add that the others who posted while I was typing this reply did a better job explaining than I did. :o :thumbup:
 
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I have had experience with Richard's grinds and sharpening. I sent him my double edged folder (s30v) and it came back screaming sharp. My knife has a flat and convex all the while a hell of a recurve. Dollars to donuts, he can sharpen :D

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Before

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solidsoldier said:
I have had experience with Richard's grinds and sharpening. I sent him my double edged folder (s30v) and it came back screaming sharp. My knife has a flat and convex all the while a hell of a recurve. Dollars to donuts, he can sharpen :D

l_b44343b24a5f159d477a0c81dce187d7.jpg

Before

l_0b1a68919ccfeef913799950ec3264a0.jpg

l_d2bceeace16391e16239fbf5332f35f5.jpg

After
Click to expand...

Did that used to be a Benchmade Skirmish?
 
elkins456299969 said:
Did that used to be a Benchmade Skirmish?
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Yup. Then I introduced it to mr. Dremel.
 
One reason full flats aren't used is that it's technically a harder grind - shows mistakes easy, and you have to control the edge thickness from practically the top of the blade.

Saber grind - halfway up the blade - looks stronger, is easier, and less work. Lots of factories prefer it for the expense.

Edge thickness is probably a bigger factor as it determines the actual cutting angle. There are lots of pro's and cons about that - thin edges are great cutters but more fragile. Early stainless blades had notoriously thick edges to reduce customer complaints of breakage. They didn't cut well, but the stainless took the blame.

It's why knives can be so contradictory. A thick looking saber ground military blade with a thin edge can cut like crazy, but be sticky in thick material. A thick edge flat ground seems to be a little harder to cut, but no worse the deeper it gets. Makers play with this stuff all the time.
 
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