Grinder plans

Fiddleback

Fiddleback

Knifemaker
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Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
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Oct 19, 2005
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2x72

Are these on the net for free, or do I have to pay for em?
 
and i thought i was a comedian........... sears has a 2x42 for $130. i know its not what your looking for. have you tried ebay? also might want to try texas knife supply. im going to be saving up for a kmg 2x72 myself.
 
I meant the plans. I've found a few sets, but the price (for just the plans) seemed silly. They're probably available on the net for free. Plus, I don't know the seller, so I don't want to pay for 18 sheets of paper from an unknown source.
 
Fiddleback, Most people just build their own grinders from available parts like ebay motors and controllers and Rob Frinks wheels. I just ordered an idler from Steven Bador Co for a monster grinder I made and now rebuilding.

Who the cute chick on your avatar?
 
She's got pretty eyes for such a dangerous thing don't she. (Recluse, btw)

Cool. Thanks Bruce. When you say Rob Frinks wheels, are those the complicated looking assemblies of small wheels?
 
Fiddleback said:
She's got pretty eyes for such a dangerous thing don't she. (Recluse, btw)

Cool. Thanks Bruce. When you say Rob Frinks wheels, are those the complicated looking assemblies of small wheels?
Click to expand...

Rob can make any wheel you want but the price is cheaper if you buy standard sizes. The small wheel assy you asking about is probally his rotory platen which costs about $300. I dont think you want that. You just need his standard setup. I would study his grinder and make your own if You cant afford his. There has been grinder projects on this forum and the total cost came out about the same as his KMG. Its too bad the cool stuff costs so much but if you have good machine shop skills you can make most anything.
 
Fiddleback this is a link a set of KMG Clone plans.
http://www.dfoggknives.com/PDF/GrinderPlans.pdf
I am using these plans to make a KMG clone. There is a small problem with the plans.
It lacks three things I have found thus far.
Blueprints for
1) The arm that hold the top pulley and provides tension on the belt
2) The sides of the "box" that holds the tool arm
3) The hinge plate that actually holds the pulley on the arm {1)}
All this may make no sense until you download the plans.
It is an excellant tutorial and represents alot of work donated by the folks who contributed.
I think decker who posts here contributated mightly.
I see from your profile you are an engineer.(Ga Tech?)These oversights
can easily be overcome.
Tom
Valdosta
 
One of my favorite subjects :D

Choose what design you want. There're 3 out there: one is based on Goddard's "Big Red". Another one is KMG-like and 3rd one is Bader-like.

My HMG (Home Made Grinder) Mark I was Big-Red-like and with Mark II,
I emulated Bader. Both were documented by me, with
pics etc, you can easily find them.

http://www.knifeforums.com/forums/showtopic.php?tid/752550/post/774815/#774815

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=430518&highlight=HMG

KMG-like was also built by another forum member from another forum :) and is very well documented : http://forums.dfoggknives.com/index.php?showtopic=4436


Assuming you have access to a mill and a lathe and a welder (stick, MIG),
you can build one in no time and real cheap. I think HMG Mark II is an excellent design, being a direct-drive-design. KMG is a bit mode involved, giving you freedom of different pulley ratios, but if you go VFD, that benefit is effectively negated.
 
THANKS guys. This is exactly what I wanted.

Bruce, I am going to check into the savings associated with building my own. If there isn't a big difference, I'll probably get a Coote.

Again, you guys are the best!
 
Yeah, I'm building one of those grinders from Don Fogg's site as well. Just finished squaring up all the steel on the mill yesterday. Probably do layout today, if I make it to the shop.

I have also noticed that some of the parts are not drawn out in the plans. If anyone comes up with something for this please let me know, I'll do the same. Maybe we can even add it to the plans on the website once it's all figured out, as I can see this issue coming up again and again with people who want to build one of these grinders.
 
I'm building the KMG clone grinder as well using the .pdf plans compiled by Mike Clerc. I'm almost done with the project and it has turned out much better than I expected. In finished sandblasting all the scale off the parts this afternoon and it looks really slick.

I squared up all the steel on my mill too, but since I have a Taig 2019S micro mill that step took me a couple of days. Can't take off too big of a bite with a 1/4" carbide end mill. It came in real handy for machining the key way slots in the driveshaft though.

I have the blueprint for the tension arm if you need it. As far as the tracking/tension wheel pivot plate is concerned just cut a 1 & 1/2" x 2" piece of 3/4" flat bar and drill a .250 hole through it to match the hole shown in the pivot plate support blueprint. Then drill and tap a 1/2-13 hole right about in the middle of the pivot plate. I also thoroughly documented my work all the way through with pictures. If you want any of the pictures or the blueprints, send me an email and I'll get them off to you.

Ken (kkelley "at" mrtc.com)
 
I also thoroughly documented my work all the way through with pictures. If you want any of the pictures or the blueprints, send me an email and I'll get them off to you.

I am at the point of needing to Fab the tension arm I'd like the blueprints please, pic's would be nice as well
t_megow@yahoo.com
 
Tommegow said:
I also thoroughly documented my work all the way through with pictures. If you want any of the pictures or the blueprints, send me an email and I'll get them off to you.

I am at the point of needing to Fab the tension arm I'd like the blueprints please, pic's would be nice as well
t_megow@yahoo.com
Click to expand...
I'd love to have a set of the grinder plans emailed to me. That is very generous of you. I tried to email you, but it bounced back to me. Please email them to me at:
scott.ickes@timken.com

Thanks,
Scott (Ickie) Ickes
 
OK, guys. I just got through sending a set of 4 messages with the plans and some photos to each of you. If you don't get them, please let me know. If anybody knows how to post them that would be real nice as I don't know how to do it. If not, I don't mind sending them out.

Ken
 
2) The sides of the "box" that holds the tool arm


This is from Tom's message addressing shortfalls in Mike Clerc's plans & I forgot to address the issue in my posts and pictures. This is easily enough remedied. The sides of the box are 1 & 1/2" pieces of 1/2" cold finished steel. The hole pattern of both match the hole pattern layout on the blueprints for the top and bottom pieces of the box. All the holes in the sides are .250 all the way through. I drilled my sides and top at the same time so I only had to lay out the holes on the top piece. Then I clamped the top, sides, and bottom around the tool bar and located the holes in the bottom of the tool bar receiver box with a transfer punch I made from a short piece of 1/4" 0-1 oill hardening drill rod. If you have a metal lathe, turn a point on the tool rod, then harden it by heating to nonmagnetic and oil quench. I didn't draw the temper on mine since all I did was lightly tap it to mark the matching part. If you want to pound on it you might want to draw it to a light blue or dark bronze.

One of the sides is good as is to this point. You need to drill and tap a 1/2"-13 hole in the one you want to install your tool bar lock lever in. I centered mine on the side and placed the centerline 3" back from the front end. There's no drop dead accurate location for the locking lever so I decided 3" back was good enough.

Be real careful to pay attention to the hole sizes when you drill the holes in the bottom 2 & 1/2" piece of the box. The 4 holes in the middle are drilled and tapped 1/4-20 and the holes on the ends are drilled straight through at .250. Remember I warned you when you try to tap a .250 hole with a 1/4-20 tap!

K
 
Ken Kelley said:
2) The sides of the "box" that holds the tool arm
Be real careful to pay attention to the hole sizes when you drill the holes in the bottom 2 & 1/2" piece of the box. The 4 holes in the middle are drilled and tapped 1/4-20 and the holes on the ends are drilled straight through at .250. Remember I warned you when you try to tap a .250 hole with a 1/4-20 tap!

K
Click to expand...

You obviously saw the nuts on the underside of my box :foot:
 
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