Grinder questions

L

Lukers

Joined
Jul 17, 1999
Messages
571
There seem to be a lot of good grinders out there. There is the KMG, Bader, Wilton, Hardcore, and Coote. The Coote of all of them is the most inexpensive. It can do detail work, flat grinding and hollow grinder with very little modification and almost no extra parts. Do you think Coote is the best option for general knife use? Does it run as smooth as the more pricey grinders?
What are your thoughts and experiences on this?
Thank you
Luke
 
I'm still a Grizzly fan. Got two but, my next will be a Rob Frink with the rotary platen.
 
If you put machined, balanced pulleys on the Coote, it will be very smooth.
IMO, the Coote is a great grinder to start out with. Whether it is as smooth as the others you mentioned, I don't know. The good thing is, you won't either.;) :D
Most of the other grinders mentioned are at least $1000.00 more, many of them over $2000.00 more. They are expensive for a reason.
 
I'm very happy with my Grizzly, esp. with Rob's slow down wheel, but in a few years when i have the money will definitely upgrade to Rob's full KMG
 
Which drive wheel would be the best for grinding thin hunting knife edges, the 8 or 10 inch?
Does the Coote need new wheels to replace the ones send from Norm? Are they that bad?
What kind of belts are the best? I have used Aluminum Oxide belts from Jantz supply? Is the 36 grit worth buying or is it better to use 60 or 80 for rough stock removal?
I am used to crappy equipment. The grinder I have used for the past 3 years is made from 2x4's, a 1/6 hp motor, a coat hanger, a truckers bungee, some cheap bearings and wood wheels I turned on a lathe. The belt kinda dances around where it wants now because the bearings are shot :eek: So honestly anything better than that would seem like grinding with a precision instrument.
What brand and kind of respirators do you guys use. If I can't continue to do knifemaking safely without damaging my eyes and lungs and ears, then I will quit and just collect other peoples work. I have used a respirator from A/O safety, but it says not to use on for protection against abrasives. It does say it protects against dust. If I can't smell burning metal, does that mean I am safe?

Thanks for the replies. I appreciate the help very much :)
Thanks again
Luke
 
Luke I'd recommend the 10" wheel so you can go farther up the blade with your grind. I always think the 8" wheel results in a knife that looks more commercial than it needs to.

I'm sure you will appreciate the Coote! My first grinder was a 2 X 48 hobby machine from TKS, and I still use it for some stuff. I now have a variable speed BIII that I wouldn't trade for anything. But it was pricey; took a couple years to pay it off. When I buy another machine it'll be Rob Frink's KMG-1, which I had the good fortune to examine up close at the Blade show.

Rob makes tanks, and is a super guy to boot. If you can afford it at all, why don't you take a look ? You'll be glad you thought about it at least.

I recently bought a face shield from
Airware America that I am so far very happy with. It is not heavy to wear and I read in the enclosed material that the filter is 2 microns, very small. (However, I can smell spray paint in a heavy paint environment, so am not entirely convinced on this.) Because it's powered, I don't have to worry about the seal around my beard - there's positive pressure of filtered air inside the face shield. And it was not too expensive, about $270 with shipping.

Hope this is of some value,

Dave
 
Lukers, I agree with Dave, I really like the 10 inch contact wheel. I have attach a picture of a knife I ground with the 10" wheel, to show as an example. As for grinders I have a BM2 and a BIII Variable Speed bador which I love dearly...but I know I will own a Rob Frink KMG sometime in the future, it's just a matter of time..:D :D :D
 

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I have the Coote. I have the 10 inch wheel. I have not hollow ground with it yet but I was advised, here - by a majority of those responding to my question, to get the 10 inch wheel. Mine runs smooth with two exceptions: I need balanced pulleys, the heavier backed belts bump at the taped splice.

I recommend getting a piece of pyrocerum for the flat platen. It will help grind better and will not allow the steel flat platen to wear. I can send you a link to where I got my pyrocerum.

EDIT: Another nice thing is the thickness of the pyrocerom raises the belt high enough out of line with the drive wheel (wheel platen) that you can taper knife tangs. Without that you can not easily taper tangs with the Coote. Even a graphite strip will raise the belt just enough to taper tangs.

I like my Coote alot and am glad to have it. Someday, if I change, it will (in my dreams) be the KMG with his new flat platen attachment.

If you go with the Coote, tell Norman Coote we sent you.

Roger
 
I think that the Coote is the best grinder for the money I used one for 8 years before getting my Burr King. One thing in addition to machined pulleys you need is a premium belt not the kind you by at the hardware store. One other thing is nice about Coote you can get a 8" and 10" wheel and use a platen with both. Gib
 
Originally posted by Gib Guignard
I think that the Coote is the best grinder for the money I used one for 8 years before getting my Burr King. One thing in addition to machined pulleys you need is a premium belt not the kind you by at the hardware store. One other thing is nice about Coote you can get a 8" and 10" wheel and use a platen with both. Gib
Click to expand...

I agree with Gib, the Coote is GREAT deal for the money!

As far as the more expensive grinders are concerned, you get what you pay for. Yes, you can make knives with files and sandpaper and there's nothing wrong with that. I used a portable belt sander clamped upside down at one time. The potential for an improvement in quality will go way up with one of the high dollar better grinders, especially coupled with variable speed. It lessens the risk of burning handle material (and the tip of the blade!)
 
J. Neilson, I've admired your work now for some time and find the fact that you are using a Grizzly quite comforting! I have been reading books, following this, and other forums for months now. I too, bought one of the Grizzlies on sale. I have yet to grind a blade, still reading and collecting the tools and materials. I will be doing stock removal, and just got my coffee can forge together for heat treating. I have on hand 0-1 steel and am very close to getting started. I plan on flat grinding my blades but have many concerns. I have purchased and watched a "Flat grinding" video, but it really didn't help much. I guess once I start, things will be clearer (or maybe not). Any way, I know it can be done on a Grizzly. Keep up the good work, its quite inspiring! Oh yes, probably all, including myself, would love to have a KMG!!

Bill
 
If you've got a Griz we know you can do it. I started on a 1 X 30 Harbor Freight and some others have started on less than that. Best thing to do is just grind a piece and see how it feels.

Oh, and your right - J. does fantastic work.

Roger
 
Wow, thanks for the compliment.

Roger: I started on that same 1x30 grinder, boy was that a pain. That's all I had when I did my first show. It was also before I'd ever even talked to another knifemaker. It was back when my knives would turn you to stone if you looked at them, they were that bad.:eek: ;) :eek:

Bill: If I can help you out at all, just let me know. You can e-mail me or give me a call anytime.
 
Originally posted by rlinger
If you've got a Griz we know you can do it. I started on a 1 X 30 Harbor Freight and some others have started on less than that.
Click to expand...

Yea, well I started on a set of worn and broken files and used sandpaper I dug out of the trash can from the local metalworking shop and my shop was 10 miles away and I had to walk there uphill both ways in the snow with no shoes! :D :D :D

Just kidding!!! Seriously though, I started on a Grizzly too. Bought a KMG a year later and it's just snowballed from there.

J. does do beautiful work, and from what I've seen of Roger's he does too! :)

-Darren
 
the coote was my first real knife making grinder. i started with files then a 1x42 then the coote with a 10" then after a couple of years i bought the hardcore 1 1/2 Var, i use the coote and HC daily. i do all flat and convex but am still happy i got the 10" on the coote for hogging off metal :) the KMG was not around then but when i buy a third machine it will probaly be a KMG with a 14" if i decide to add in a few hhole ground designs. i have the full air helmet AS200 from airwear but if you buy a hepa rated 3m dual cartridge half mask you will be safe. they run about $30-$35 at the hardware store. the coote is made here in the usa! and when i got mine some pulleys a good fan belt and a used 1hp 1700rpm motor. i was a grinding fool with a real machine for $500.00
 
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