Grinding a Karambit

[Fletch Helical]

So truth be told I'm a fan of the knife. I studied a bit of Filipino martial arts for a while and since I can make a knife I was wondering if it's possible to do one with stock removal? I figured due to the shape of it forging would be a more practical method, unfortunately I don't have the capability to forge. Then again I don't know that I have the capability to grind one either. Considering the design of the knife I don't know if it's possible to grind one with just a flat platen, I figured you'd usually do more of a hollow grind and need a wheel to grind a curved blade. I guess worst case I could do the whole thing with files (half round maybe?) for a flat grind to do the curve in the blade but not sure if a flat grind would even work on a design like that, unless I make a modified version of it somehow. Than again I don't know how usinf a galf round would work drying to do the bevels. Then there is the matter of finding a stock wide enough to make the blade with the finger hole and curve of the blade. I figure you'd need something several inches wide just to make the design work. Any info/tips are appreciated.

 

[rincan]

Why does the karambit have to have a hollow grind? I have seen and used many with a flat grind. As far as getting some stock that is wide enough. I have made one by using a torch and some plyers and a hammer to bend some stock.

 

[JG Custom Metal Works]

I too am interested in what people have to say about this. I have a mock up of one I'm going to try before long but I just haven't gotten around to it.

You don't necessarily need to have a curved blade with a karambit. You could always have some curve in the handle and then continue that curve by placing the blade at an offset angle. This would allow you to not need a curved blade. This is how my design was and I had a drop point in which i would sharpen the blade on both sides. IMO karambits, especially fixed blade ones, benefit the most from being double edged. Striking quick with the back of the blade, while held in reverse grip, in a jabbing motion, would work real well.

For a straight bladed design, like mine, you wouldn't need to use a wheel or a radiused platen. IIRC a lot of guys use files to do the curved blades.

 

[Drew Riley]

If you make a kerambit with any significant radius to the recurve, you'll be better served to get a 1" wide contact wheel and split your belts. It'll be a lot easier to do inside curves this way.
I won't say it's impossible to do with a flat platen, but it does become more difficult, IMO.

 

[David Stifle]

Grind the blade while straight to around the thickness of a dime, then heat up and bend into shape. you will need to hammer out the wrinkles on the edge caused by the curvature. After HT and tempering, put final edge on with diamond sharpeners. At least, that's how I did it.