Grinding a point on Vic One Handed Trekker blade- question

coloradowildman

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Hi all, I recently picked up a non-serrated Victorinox One Handed Trekker and while I really dig the knife, the lack of a point on the blade is really bothering me. I'm not looking to doing anything radical, but I would like to have a point on the blade like the standard Vic's do. I'm planning to take this knife in place of a fixed blade at times when I'm just hiking trails (I take a fixed blade when off trail) and the lack of a point on it is driving me crazy lol. I do own a Dremel tool but I certainly don't want to destroy the blade or mess with the temper on it.

Suggestions? thanks!
 
Perhaps I am behind the curve, Colorado, but the OHT is a 'spear point' type blade that comes stock with serrations at the front of the blade. Is it possible you have a modified version?

trekker_1600.jpg
 
A.P.F.: FYI, Victorinox does make a non-serrated version:

http://www.knifecenter.com/kc_new/store_detail.html?s=VN54875

The tip on it does look a bit blunt (round).


If it were me, I wouldn't use a Dremel on it. Assuming you're not comfortable with reprofiling the entire edge with a guided sharpener (which is what I'd do), I'd otherwise use something like a Coarse/Med or Med/Fine diamond hone (like a DMT). The steel in Victorinox's knives is relatively soft, compared to others. It will take a nice, sharp edge if care is taken to do it gently.

Edited to add:
Another possibility, you could look up a reputable knife sharpening service in your area. Show 'em the knife and explain EXACTLY what you'd like done for the tip, and ask 'em how they plan to do it (by hand, or with powered tools/grinders). A task like this could be accomplished fairly easily by hand, if the person doing the work is truly skilled (ask 'em to show you some examples of their work or, better yet, demonstrate it). I'd think it shouldn't cost too much either.
 
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i got the new soldier a few months ago. i tried to open some clamshell packaging with it and the lack of point made it impossible. It has since been retired to the knife i keep in my car.
 
You can grind a little bit along the spine toward the tip. Not much is needed. Just enough that the spine cleanly meets the edge. This is pretty common way to restore a point that has been worn or damaged. On this kind of blade, it should be difficult to tell it's been modded unless you know what to look for.
 
i got the new soldier a few months ago. i tried to open some clamshell packaging with it and the lack of point made it impossible. It has since been retired to the knife i keep in my car.

It has an awl, with which to poke a hole. Once started, the blade can be inserted into the opening and the package cut up so you can extract your new knife. :)
 
nice! 2 tools to open/close for something that should last a blink.
 
I stoned mine down from the EDGED side. Not too far, but just enough to get it a bit pointy.
Then I cut NEW serrations in with a round file and it came out pretty nice.
I used the chisel grind serrated model. You can pretty easily restore the chisel grind if you take some time.

I know what you mean with the NEW one hander. It's pointed like a SPOON!

Vic could make a BUNCH of people happy if they weren't so scared of making an actual KNIFE.

My DREAM Vic is the One Hand Trekker WITHOUT a saw. That would take care of my knife needs just swell.

Edited to add: I just saw that you got the PLAIN edge version. Same thing, I'd think for taking it up carefully from the edged side.

HOWEVER............. I find FRONT SERRATIONS the most sensible and useful position. Wish more were like that. When you REACH for a cut, you want as much "cut" as possible. But, noooooooooo, the knife companies put the serrations where you might want to WHITTLE something.

Bowing to convention.

foo.
 
Spyderco did the same damn dumb thing when they reprofiled the Delica.

Change the whole damn knife to cater to those who can't keep from dropping them on the point.

:grumpy:
 
Spyderco did the same damn dumb thing when they reprofiled the Delica.

Change the whole damn knife to cater to those who can't keep from dropping them on the point.

:grumpy:

well at least they fixed that ;)

for the OP i would use the awl to puncture then use the blade to cut, or just push really hard with the blade ;)
 
It has an awl, with which to poke a hole. Once started, the blade can be inserted into the opening and the package cut up so you can extract your new knife. :)

the awl has an edge, why don't i just open the package entirely with the awl? i don't think it's too much to ask for a blade with a point on it.
 
A.P.F.: FYI, Victorinox does make a non-serrated version:

http://www.knifecenter.com/kc_new/store_detail.html?s=VN54875

The tip on it does look a bit blunt (round).


If it were me, I wouldn't use a Dremel on it. Assuming you're not comfortable with reprofiling the entire edge with a guided sharpener (which is what I'd do), I'd otherwise use something like a Coarse/Med or Med/Fine diamond hone (like a DMT). The steel in Victorinox's knives is relatively soft, compared to others. It will take a nice, sharp edge if care is taken to do it gently.

Edited to add:
Another possibility, you could look up a reputable knife sharpening service in your area. Show 'em the knife and explain EXACTLY what you'd like done for the tip, and ask 'em how they plan to do it (by hand, or with powered tools/grinders). A task like this could be accomplished fairly easily by hand, if the person doing the work is truly skilled (ask 'em to show you some examples of their work or, better yet, demonstrate it). I'd think it shouldn't cost too much either.

Thanks for the info. The tip is actually completely blunted to the point where I can press it into my finger without harm whereas the tip on my Champ (standard SAK blade) would poke a hole doing the same thing. The tip in the photo from Knifecenter link you provided actually looks a bit pointier than the real knife.

I do have a knife shop in my area so maybe I'll start there. I know for a fact they have a belt grinder and offer knife sharpening there so I'll give them a shot. I just want to make sure the blade doesn't lose its integrity from heat damage:)

I really like the knife as it has a longer saw in addition to the other standard features. Nice to have a useable saw and 3.5" one hand opening blade in the pocket if you lose your pack (easy to fall down steep trails and mountainsides here in the Rockies).
 
Thanks for the info. The tip is actually completely blunted to the point where I can press it into my finger without harm whereas the tip on my Champ (standard SAK blade) would poke a hole doing the same thing. The tip in the photo from Knifecenter link you provided actually looks a bit pointier than the real knife.

I do have a knife shop in my area so maybe I'll start there. I know for a fact they have a belt grinder and offer knife sharpening there so I'll give them a shot. I just want to make sure the blade doesn't lose its integrity from heat damage:)

As long as the sharpener is careful and knowledgable, you shouldn't have to worry too much about ruining the temper of the blade. In fact, if they have much experience sharpening smaller blades i.e., pocketknives, they should've eliminated that possibility a long time ago. Don't be afraid to ask 'em about that very point.

That's a cool looking knife. I wasn't aware (until looking it up today) that they did offer a non-serrated version. All the more attractive. It'd be great if they'd put both blades in one knife! Maybe someday...

Good luck. :thumbup:
 
I stoned mine down from the EDGED side. Not too far, but just enough to get it a bit pointy.
Then I cut NEW serrations in with a round file and it came out pretty nice.
I used the chisel grind serrated model. You can pretty easily restore the chisel grind if you take some time.

I know what you mean with the NEW one hander. It's pointed like a SPOON!

Vic could make a BUNCH of people happy if they weren't so scared of making an actual KNIFE.

My DREAM Vic is the One Hand Trekker WITHOUT a saw. That would take care of my knife needs just swell.

Edited to add: I just saw that you got the PLAIN edge version. Same thing, I'd think for taking it up carefully from the edged side.

HOWEVER............. I find FRONT SERRATIONS the most sensible and useful position. Wish more were like that. When you REACH for a cut, you want as much "cut" as possible. But, noooooooooo, the knife companies put the serrations where you might want to WHITTLE something.

Bowing to convention.

foo.

Lavan, lol yeah it is like a spoon:) From the pics I've seen, the serrated version has more of a point than the plain edge. As others have said, I don't understand why Victorinox didn't use the standard blade like on my Champ which has a functional point on it. It seems as though they are using the blade from the Swiss Rescue Tool which would need a blunted safety point.

As for having a saw, at least in my experience here in the high country, it can really make a huge difference if you don't have a hatchet or large heavy knife with you. I don't subscribe to the big heavy knife school of thought because I can guarantee you, one backpacking trip carrying 40-80 pounds of gear for 30 miles over multiple steep grades will change one's perception of realistically carrying a pound and a half bowie knife:):) I do carry my Cold Steel Bushman in the winter but in the warmer months rely on a good smaller knife and a portable saw.

My full size Sierra Saw has easily sawed small trees and weighs only 5.4 oz, and the saw on my Vic OHT though only about 3.5" long can do the cutting work of an 7" bowie knife with less energy spent. The total weight of the OHT is only 4.5 oz yet has the capability of a larger blade because of the saw on it.
 
The plainedge version was scarce when I bought mine. So I got a serrated one and had RichardJ remove the serrations and put a V bevel.

You can always PM Richardj here on BFC and have him make a spear point for you.

trekkeroht.jpg
 
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