Grinding AEB-L

S

Steve Beckwith

Joined
May 29, 2004
Messages
393
I am grinding a 10" chef's knife post heat treat using AEB-L. It was pretty dang straight when I started grinding but I am about 2/3 through my 60 grit grind and it has warped. I was dunking after each pass and alternating sides because of potential warping issues with this steel but it warped anyway. I may be able to grind the warp out if I am careful but I am wondering if I shouldn't try clamping it to a straight edge, shimmed so that I am removing the warp and then put it in my heat treating kiln. I use this trechnique to remove warps in the carbon steel that I heat treat myself. Is this a viable option? If so, what temperature should I use?
 
Straightening during tempering has not worked well for me with AEB-L even when increasing the temperature over the original tempering temperature a good bit. Adding more and more shims also did nothing for me. I've had some success peening with a hammer and an old carbide bit.

I had an AEB-L blade warp during grinding recently, but the warp went away when I ground the second side. AEB-L can be frustrating. I'll be watching this thread to hopefully learn how more experienced makers deal with this.
 
If it was straight going into the grind it should be straight coming out, assuming you grind evenly and with the same pressure on each side.
If not, I don't know how to straighten that out. :\
 
This is a regular issue with AEB-L. I just lost a knife to it yesterday. I haven't found a fix for it yet. Most AEB-L started on a coil and wants to return to it. I don't use AEB-L on long thin blades anymore.
 
As mark said, if you grind evenly both sides it comes out straight.

Here’s one I just finished (it’s sold) that’s straight. 8”

I use a carbide chisel to straighten homogeneous blades. You need this -

https://trowandholden.com/carbide-carver-s-drills.html

3/8 " $49
It’s impact grade carbide

it leaves impact marks that u have to grind out. Watch the Murray carter video on straightening blades where he talks about a tagane

Kitchen blades tend to bend just in front of the heel where the tang starts. Or towards the tip. Straightening during tempering never worked for me either. Or not reliably and it takes too long

i never (rarely) lose a knife to a straightening concern

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HSC /// said:
They tend to bend just in front of the heel where the tang starts.
Click to expand...

This is exactly what is happens in my shop with AEB-L and its younger sister 14c28n, a lot of the time. Usually its enough to just taper the tang a bit to centre things. I also use a carbide chisel a little but am still learning that. One freaky recent thing was when I whacked a 14c28n blade a few times with it, looked at it and was like huh that didn't help, left it on the bench top and when I picked it up the next day it was straight.
 
I was careful to grind equally on each side TIME WISE. The blade is convex on the side corresponding to my dominant hand. Possibly without realizing it I have been applying more pressure on that side when I grind. My warp was probably about .040. I laid the blade on a table and flexed hard and got about 1/2 of the warp out that got me into the neighborhood where I could grind out the rest. As of now I am looking pretty good. Thanks for all who respond, I was afraid that is what y'all were gonna say...
 
Ive never had luck trying to straighten aebl in temper. Snapped a few with 3 pins in a vice.

As mentioned above I find peening the easiest method. I use a carbide bit embedded in a hammer. But if you're close to final thickness its not an option because you still need some meat to grind the divots out unless you can peen the handle. If you have a sand blaster and the blade is thin you can remove a warp.

On thin fillet knives I just try to move the warp when grinding.
 
Scott - I just got some Nitro V blanks which I plan to grind down to .010 edge pre HT. They are for kitchen knives. I have a sand blaster - how do I use it to remove warp if I get it?
 
tim37a said:
Scott - I just got some Nitro V blanks which I plan to grind down to .010 edge pre HT. They are for kitchen knives. I have a sand blaster - how do I use it to remove warp if I get it?
Click to expand...

Just like peening. Blast in lines perpendicular to the edge on the inside of the the bow. It works best with a coarse glass bead. It also works better in thinner stock. 0.06 is great 0.1 takes a while and there seems to be a limit on how far you can move it.

Be careful because it generates heat. Stay away from the edge or you could ruin your temper.

I much prefer my peening hammer now but if you already have a sand blaster its worth a try.
 
When grinding AEB-L you are grinding post HT, AND most important while grinding, make 1 pass (no more than 2) on side A, then a pass on side B. Alternate sides while grinding and I've not had a problem with warp using AEB-L.
 
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