Grinding an even bevel question ?

blgoode

Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
Joined
Oct 3, 2003
Messages
7,145
I have a hard time knowing if I need to angle the tang down and out or just out when grinding the belly and tip area's. Can anyone advise on this at all?
 
there are several ways to do it, for me it's hard to exsplain
but I will say it depends on how agresive the cruves are.
on the fairly stright I come acrost pulling the tip out and twist the blade just a little on the heavy cruves I'll use the edge of the wheel more and follow
the curves all the way it's harder to do but very interesting to repeat each
pass the same. ( hollow grinding)
 
There turning out nice. I have a hard time getting that even gring like in this link
http://www.texasknife.com/store/s-pages/TKS_MainframeStore.htm?TKS_BladesSS9.htm~smain



I see this and think...no way!
I know delicate curves and straight grinds will come in time. My main trouble right now is simple practice makes perfect stuff. I like the tough flat grinds and my guess is that flat grinding is one of the tougher type grinds when it comes to clean hard lines. I also think I need to raise where I stand by about 1". It would be nice if there were grinders at tackrock. Maybe I can just walk through it with some of the guys.
 
Humm.... I keep thinking hollow grinding is the way to go for getting those hard transitions. I'll not get frustrated and keep on keepin' on brother! :D :D
 
I dont make me no nevermind but here at BF and at USN they dont want cross links. Some kinda squabble from years back kinda thing.
 
Replaced Link. Thanks Mark.....its a better example anyway of what grind I am refering to. Back to the bondo for a while. Nothin' like Napalm (bondo) in the morning!!
 
Mark Williams said:
I dont make me no nevermind but here at BF and at USN they dont want cross links. Some kinda squabble from years back kinda thing.


:confused: geuss I missed something here?
 
I had another forums thread as a link (which must have been an issue in the past) so I took it out and put in the above link for a knife grind example.
 
blgoode said:
I had another forums thread as a link (which must have been an issue in the past) so I took it out and put in the above link for a knife grind example.

Brian :confused: Delta 5™ Fixed Blade Series ??
if that's the one that grind is a simple across hollow grind just pull the tang out at the tip and twist a little so you don't thin the edge too much while grinding.
 
Dan Gray said:
Brian :confused: Delta 5™ Fixed Blade Series ??
I was just trying to find a quick example of a decent grind. I have a feeling my main problem is that I am unsure as to how far DOWN I need to pull the tang...but from what you said earlier it may be more of a TWIST. I'll give the twist a try...

see how the bevel is angled up on the hunt 5 link(small skinner)...I am getting this more on one side instead of this straight bevel like the dam1.jpg

Do I need to keep my blade parallel for a longer period then twist and pull the tang down and out? This may be to hard to describe in a thread. I am liking both of the above grinds. I am just trying to get more control and a better idea of what my results will be.(dont mean to advertise for the above maker)
 
blgoode said:
I was just trying to find a quick example of a decent grind. I have a feeling my main problem is that I am unsure as to how far DOWN I need to pull the tang...but from what you said earlier it may be more of a TWIST. I'll give the twist a try...

see how the bevel is angled up on the hunt 5 link(small skinner)...I am getting this more on one side instead of this straight bevel like the dam1.jpg

Do I need to keep my blade parallel for a longer period then twist and pull the tang down and out? This may be to hard to describe in a thread. I am liking both of the above grinds. I am just trying to get more control and a better idea of what my results will be.(dont mean to advertise for the above maker)

I'd say, on the both of those they've been ground straight across with a little more pressure at the spine towards the tip. this is very easy to do just control..in pressure. the edge thins more towards the tip
 
Gotcha' I will just be patient with my learning/ control curve. Its very hard to describe technique on the forums. Thanks for your input guys. ;)
 
i think they do have some grinders at trackrock, the first time i saw Mark (Gouge) there he was trying to grind a pices of 5160 i think to make somekinda machette or something :D

edit: he kept saying he could do it faster in his coal forge, if i remember right :D
 
I hope to have a forge one of these days. I need a place big enough for everything first ;)
 
I do a combination of both down and out. I start by moving the tang up or down to keep the edge where I am grinding perpendicular to the belt. I do this until the edge is the thickness I want and the grind goes as high as I want it to.
Now the bevels are set and its time to blend the area right behind the tip and grind in the distal taper this part is a little harder. Being careful not to grind anymore off of the edge I start with ricasso and move towards the tip putting preasure on the spine with a push stick where the grind meets the spine. I am keeping the ablade pretty much level now not rocking up and down put pulling out on the tang very slightly as I get towards the tip. you will have to twist it a little to keep from making the edge thinner. I just keep this up until the spine is perfectly straight from the tip to the handle.
I only flat grind so I can't say how this would work out for all you hollow grinders.
 
You're right it's hard to explain.

Here's something to think about.

Starting from a blank, say you want to cut the first 45 degree bevel and the bevel follows the knife edge. So you have something like this:

stepd2.jpg


In order to do that you have to pull the tang back while you grind across the belly - waaay back. Try it with a piece of wood.

Now, as you continue to grind and the distal taper sets in you don't have to pull back as much. By the time the grind is done you are not pulling back at all the the grind line perfectly follows the belly. The entire bevel is now flat from the start of the bellt to the tip - as flat as a piece of glass.

Well it isn't really, but in a perfect world it would be.

Steve
 
PS that tang up and down stuff (if I understand you correctly) applies only to hollow grinding. It should not move the grind line anywhere.

In fact I use that technique to make sure the bevel is flat and straightening the grindline. It makes the sanding surface longer is all.

Steve
 
OK what's this tang up and down stuff :confused: I grind both
if you move the tang up and down hollow grinding say on a 8"
wheel,, you won't have the 8" wheel radius any longer :confused:
:)

I under stand the flat grind Steve is saying but on the hollow grind :(
 
Dan,

I'm with you and all dialed in on flat grinding.

I don't understand it either on hollow grinding. I'm still a beginner there. The Stout video show him doing it. I've done it both ways and am not happy yet. Take me quite a while to even out grind lines on a hollow grind.

Steve
 
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