Can anybody tell me the process of grinding a blade of D-2 and O-1 Tool Steel.I'm currently using 1.5" x 5/32 x 9" long pieces.Also what should the finish look like,and when you grind the blade should you go with the grain or against the grain.Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Grinding and Finishing D-2 and O-1 Tool Steel
- Thread starter Vlahos
- Start date
- Joined
- Feb 1, 2000
- Messages
- 1,370
Vlahos, your question is rather general. The process of grinding is pretty much the same for all steels, some are just harder to grind than others. You will probably find that the O1 grinds easier than the D2.
If you are using a belt sander then you will most likely be grinding from the edge of the blade toward the spine. Same goes if you are filing the bevel. In a piece of fully spheroidized and annealed tool steel that hasn't been forged there is no grain to speak of to work with or against.
As far as the finish goes that is entirely up to you, whether to leave it at a 320 grit satin or a buffed mirror polish, the choice is yours and there is no right or wrong about it, only the individuals idea of what the blade should look like, and the amount of work you want to put into the finish. Hope this has been somewhat helpful. -Guy Thomas
P.S.-What kind of knives are you making and what kind of equipment do you have?
If you are using a belt sander then you will most likely be grinding from the edge of the blade toward the spine. Same goes if you are filing the bevel. In a piece of fully spheroidized and annealed tool steel that hasn't been forged there is no grain to speak of to work with or against.
As far as the finish goes that is entirely up to you, whether to leave it at a 320 grit satin or a buffed mirror polish, the choice is yours and there is no right or wrong about it, only the individuals idea of what the blade should look like, and the amount of work you want to put into the finish. Hope this has been somewhat helpful. -Guy Thomas
P.S.-What kind of knives are you making and what kind of equipment do you have?
Hi Silent thank-you for your response,but I think I might have asked the question wrong.I would like to know the grits from start to finish and whether to use the buffer or hand sand the blade.To answer your question I have a Bader BIII,2hp grinder,and a 1/4 horse buffer.I'm currently making drop point hunters and whatever I can design that looks good.I hope you or anybody else can respond to this.Thank-You.
- Joined
- Feb 1, 2000
- Messages
- 1,370
Hey Vlahos, I think I understand a bit better now. Nice belt grinder you have, is it variable speed?
You can start with as coarse a grit as 36 for the bulk of the stock removal or you can start with 60 grit. After that you can work through 120, 220, 320, 400 and on all the way to 1500 and beyond if you had the mind to. You can stop at 320 or 400 for a nice satin finish, you can begin buffing after around 500 or 600 grit to work towards a mirror finish. Some makers skip a size between belts
(i.e. 60, 220, 400 then 500). You just always want to remove all of the previous grit scratches before you move on to the next grit.
If you don't have variable speed you can use the belts to slow your grinder down for the finer finishing belts.
With a belt grinder of the caliber you have you are miles ahead of me so I hope some of the other guy's in here will chime in also. -Guy Thomas
You can start with as coarse a grit as 36 for the bulk of the stock removal or you can start with 60 grit. After that you can work through 120, 220, 320, 400 and on all the way to 1500 and beyond if you had the mind to. You can stop at 320 or 400 for a nice satin finish, you can begin buffing after around 500 or 600 grit to work towards a mirror finish. Some makers skip a size between belts
(i.e. 60, 220, 400 then 500). You just always want to remove all of the previous grit scratches before you move on to the next grit.
If you don't have variable speed you can use the belts to slow your grinder down for the finer finishing belts.
With a belt grinder of the caliber you have you are miles ahead of me so I hope some of the other guy's in here will chime in also. -Guy Thomas
- Joined
- Mar 26, 2000
- Messages
- 658
Vlahos
Nice grinder. Are you hollow or flat grinding. If your hollow grinding slow the grinder down to a speed you can control on any belt 400 and finer for a better finish.
once I get up to 800 and finer belts I can almost read the printing on the back of the belts, I run mine that slow.
If your flat grinding I sugjest stopping at 400 and carrying on by hand for nice flat flats. To be able to see that the scratches from courser belts are all ground away before carrying on to a finer belt, I spray the blade with layout dye everytime I go to a finer belt. This enables you to see the deeper course belt scratches before you get to a really fine grit.
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Robert
Flat Land Knife Works
rdblad@telusplanet.net
http://members.tripod.com/knifeworks/index.html
Nice grinder. Are you hollow or flat grinding. If your hollow grinding slow the grinder down to a speed you can control on any belt 400 and finer for a better finish.
once I get up to 800 and finer belts I can almost read the printing on the back of the belts, I run mine that slow.
If your flat grinding I sugjest stopping at 400 and carrying on by hand for nice flat flats. To be able to see that the scratches from courser belts are all ground away before carrying on to a finer belt, I spray the blade with layout dye everytime I go to a finer belt. This enables you to see the deeper course belt scratches before you get to a really fine grit.
------------------
Robert
Flat Land Knife Works
rdblad@telusplanet.net
http://members.tripod.com/knifeworks/index.html
Hi. I tried posting, but my comp was Fubar'd, but these guys answered your questions. I just wanted to let you know that I am a newbie maker (hobby) in CT. I just ordered a Grizzly Knifemaker Machine, but it is on 4 to 6 week backorder and I leave for college this friday. I also have used O-1 for a few blades and A-2 for 2 blades, and I really like the A-2!
- Joined
- Feb 1, 2000
- Messages
- 1,370
Hey Vlahos, that's great to start out with a really nice machine. It will make learning knifemaking much easiier for you.
Flat ground blades are my favorite and a good flat grind is every bit as tricky as a hollow grind.
When you order your belts be aware that you will need more of the coarser grades than the finer ones. Also use a fresh sharp belt when you are putting the final finish on your blades. Take care!-Guy Thomas
P.S. I had the oppurtunity this past weekend to use a variable speed Wilton with the 36 grit belt and it did a great job on initial stock removal!
Flat ground blades are my favorite and a good flat grind is every bit as tricky as a hollow grind.
When you order your belts be aware that you will need more of the coarser grades than the finer ones. Also use a fresh sharp belt when you are putting the final finish on your blades. Take care!-Guy Thomas
P.S. I had the oppurtunity this past weekend to use a variable speed Wilton with the 36 grit belt and it did a great job on initial stock removal!