Grinding and Quench Warp -

R

rlinger

Joined
Mar 29, 2002
Messages
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A few days back a firearm engraver and new knife maker spoke with me over the phone about having me heat treat a couple heavily embelished O1 blades. He questioned me about whether I should stress relieve the 1/8 inch stock O1 blades. I asked him questions about how he machined it. After assuring me he only grinded a little on one side then the other until finished, I advised not spending the extra few bucks for stress relieve but that I would look at them and do it if I thought a good idea.

One blade is a classic drop point; no outstanding HT problem. The other though, wow, what a needle point. It is clipped and has a very slow edge curve to tip. A long thin point. It was NOT a question of warp but how badly. A beautiful profile but I knew this one was trouble.

I decided to HT as usual; no stress relieve or adjusting quench temperature, etc. After all, I was going to have to straighten and re-heat treat with adjustments anyhow. Why not go for broke at first. Guess what - no warp. The only thing that makes any sense to me is the balanced machining he insisted he did. I don't know but its the only thing I can assume.

RL
 
What you really mean is "plate quench and they never warp". :D :eek:

BTW, these blades are full panel engraved, both sides. Really nice. I wanted to take pics and post before HT but I am so camera challenged thought they might show best after HT. I'll try tommorow after primary temper. We may have a pro source that it is not out of the universe expensive.

RL
 
Roger,
Back in the early days I used to worry to no end about heat treating most of the engraved blade I built.
Never had one warp. Bill Johns did the engraving and they were deep cut.
 

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Don't know about engraving, but since I started counting blows and forging equily side to side as much as posible and heating as evenly as posible while forging and thermal cycling, and grinding just a little one side then the other I haven't had any to warp.

Well, I got reminded about doing it right today, a blade that I forged on one side more than the other went into the quench and sure enough warped.

Good looking bowie Kit, would love to see the pics of the blades Roger
 
I am of criminal status about grinding one side completely before starting the other side. I do the same when tapering tangs. Yeap, I've had to straighten several of mine. The thick blades I have made have caused no warp problems for me but some hunters have.

RL
 
Hand forged blades should get a stress relief but the O1 shouldnt need one as it is already done at the mill. I always heat to 1325f for 30 minutes to relieve stress and anneal. Very poor grinding techniques with dull belts could cause a warp in HT even with O1 also 1325 is hot enough to cause scale and could affect the engraving but a foil wrap or PBC should take care of that. Just some thoughts here for next time. :)
 
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