I actually use 80 on the rotary platen.....then clean up with 220.....I don't go any higher in grit because that area doesnt have enough surface area for the blet to hang onto...and it can walk a bit.....after the 220 I go to handsanding.
What angle should the false edge be ground at? Or do you lay out the lines on the blade prior to grinding and then try to match up to them?
I guess what my question is, is how do you layout the false edge to get started??
I've never tried them and have been thinking about doing a false edge on a knife I'm working on now.
here is what I did....
I had a scribe line in the center of the spine and scribed in where I thought the side should drop down and just held my breath when I went to the grinder....
You didnt even need to hold your breath. You did a great job. I do just like you mentioned. Scribe a center line, That sure helps me out. Cant wait to see it finished up.
I took a sharpie and drew in some angles (30 and 45 degrees) on the front of the bench just below the grinder to use as a visual guide. These help me maintain a consistent angle when running the blade along the contact wheel.
This picture was taken before I draw them in, but you can see the beam that I drew them on (just above the bucket).
I do mine a little different. I like to see a radius in the spine of the blade where the false edge begins. I cut this radius with round files then finish out to the tip with a 10 inch wheel. This takes a little more time but, I believe it
gives the blade more character. Jams Fred
Well, I grind false edges or any straight clips with the blade parallel to the belt and the tip up. I think I grind differently also because my grinder turns the belt up instead of down like most others. I just got more comfortable this way since I started with a 4x36 and used it for a long time. Now I have a 2x72 and I made the motor turn the opposite way.
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