Grinding free hand with a 36" belt grinder

L

Lukers

Joined
Jul 17, 1999
Messages
571
to anyone that can help
I have a little 36 inch belt grinder that I have used for a few knives.Is this too small? what do you guys use? I saw that picture of barry jones knife.Beautiful work!! how do you get your bevels so defined and consistent? What do you do for polishing the blade after the rough grind?
Just looking at the work some of you guys to makes my stuff look like a pre-school did it...but you guys are humble about your talents. Thanks!!
Luke
 
36 inch by how wide? Is the platen flat? and do you own a hand file? Are you flat grinding? I started on a horrable grinder and used a file to fix a lot of boo boos'. You must start and keep your first efforts to remind your self how far you have come. I collect the work of others to remind me of how far I have to go! Please answer the above questions and I will try to help! I will bet that many folks will give you ideas to keep you going!

Doug
 
It is 36 by 1 inch. I am going to flat grind seeing how it is probably easier to do and a tougher edge than hollow. I don't know what you mean by "is the platen flat". yes i have several hand files.....the knife i am starting now is actually made of an old american file(Good metal!) I am going to eventually buy 1095 stock and work with that. I could probably file that, but not another file...duh!
By the way...on the knife i am starting. I was planning on stretch the metal with the forge so i can have a wider blade. If I get the metal red hot a number of times and let it cool, will that soften the steel any? I am thinking it does. Also, I am planning on putting ebony handles on this knife(an old pool que handle!)I was wondering if it matters which way the grain goes on the handle. Would i want it flat and with the grain going parallel to the blade laying down? How would i fasten the handle on? is epoxy enough? Or are cutlery screws in order?
Thanks alot and please help if you can
Luke
 
I work on a 4x36 inch belt grinder. The maind disadvantage that we have is that we go through belts a lot faster. I have other limitations because of the width of my belt, but that's another topic.
The platen is the area that is not the contact wheel that is intended to be ground on. Check the manual for your grinder, if available, as it will likely name the part with an illustration.
To soften the file, a process also known as annealing, all you need to do is heat up the file once and let it air cool. To check that you've gotten it hot enough, have a magnet handy, like the kind they have available now on a telescoping handle, if you can. If not, any solid magnet on wire will do. When the magnet won't stick to the file, it's hot enough, set it aside to air cool. When it's non-magnetic, that's it's critical temperature. Don't let the magnet get too hot, though, it can mislead you if it does.
Wood handles should generally be put on with the grain parallel with the blade. It gives less exposed weak spots. Attachment of the handle is a personal choice, but I like mine to stay on for as long as possible, so I pin and epoxy, if I have both options.
Are you going to show us pics of this when it's done? I look forward to seeing it, you've got some great materials lined up.

------------------
Oz

"When your work speaks for itself, don't interrupt."
- Henry J. Kaiser
 
thanks alot for the help. Some people had told me to anneal metal you were supposed to get it white hot and put it in lime. I was not very believeing of that because it contridicted everything else i had heard on Bladeforums. Thanks for telling me that though. Yes i want to show it to you guys!! you'd probably laugh at it but i will have tried my best
smile.gif

I have problem though....how do i keep the bevels equal and flat? it is so hard ! Also, Is epoxy sufficient to hold handles on?
How the heck do i drill through a file? the ebony i am using is hard to see. I can't see the grain of the wood to well to see which way the grain is going. How can i know? is it that important?
Thanks again
Luke
 
A lot of the makers I know don't rely on the grinder produce perfect flats on a blade. Like myself they use the grinder to hog off most of the material that is going to be removed then they begin to finish the knife.

Finishing a flat grind is done with files. The file is easily controlled and will produce a very excellent flat surface with a little practice drawfiling.

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george
www.tichbourneknives.com
sales@tichbourneknives.com

 
does the steel have to be annealed really soft or should it be kinda tough to take the extra off?
 
i don't know alot about annealing but i don't think you have a choice, unlike hardening. i have a cheat with flat grinding. take you grind all the way to the spine. and you don't have to even out the edge, just make sure you make it flat, don't try to cheat by making the edge slightly convex. it will effect the finish.
 
Every one has givin you good advice! However it's comming in funny chunks! I think you need a Q and A so call me 1-760=788-8304 after noon PST. Today if you can, Lets get you going! I am not the great expert by any means, but I have forged alot of files and can help!

Doug
 
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