Grinding problem

D

DanL

Joined
Mar 11, 1999
Messages
114
I grind my bevels with a 36 grit belt, it takes me a few passes to get there but they turn out good. I then put on a 220 grit belt go over the bevels again and they look like crap. Should I use a 100 grit belt in between these?
 
DanL,

I start with a 60grit then go to 120grit.
Going from 36grit to 220grit is a big step that will just wear out the 220grit faster. A 36grit belt cuts deep scratches into the blade. You would spend a lot of time and use a lot of 220grit belts up trying to take those 36grit scratches out. Taking small steps up in grit will save belts and time.

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If a man can keep alert and imaginative, an error is a possibility, a chance at something new; to him, wandering and wondering are a part of the same process. He is most mistaken, most in error, whenever he quits exploring.

William Least Heat Moon
 
start with 60grt, or 50, use ceramic belts, that was my problem also, i stated to low, and couldn't get the scatches out. try 60, 80, 150, 220, 320. then for a hand finish start from 220grt, and work you way up.
 
I go from 50/60 ceramic to 120, sometimes 220, to 320/400. I use the 707 ceramic 120 grit belts and Klingspor LS312 from 220 up. Works for me.
 
what exactly do you mean by they look like crap...explain....most guys...as you can see, start with 50 or 60 grit....then go to 100 or 120....the key is go get the scratches out from the previous grit with each change....so you dont necessarily have to go in any order...its just faster to do it in an orderly fashion...the 220 will get 36 grit marks out...eventually...but sounds like you are working harder than you have to.

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http://www.mayoknives.com


 
Tom Mayo, When I switch to the 220 grit belt I start to get multiple facets on the grind that were not there when using the 36 grit belt. Maybe I'm taking too big of a jump from 36 to 220, what do you think?
 
Usually after grinding with the 36 grit belt I flat file the blade then start sanding with a sanding block. I was just trying to speed up the process;-)
 
what do you mean by multiple facets...not sure what that is.....email me and we can correspond...one small problem with going from a 36 to 220 is that the 220 is in fact a little bit smaller than the coarse grit just because of the grit size....what might be showing up are dips (2inch lines) from not holding the blade square to the wheel. are the facets up and down or horizontal?? the verticle ones would probable be from the edge of your belt..the far side toward the tip of the knife....horizontal would be from not holding the knife into the exact same grind as you had going before...do you have a variable speed grinder.....one speed (fast) are hard to control for a nice even grind.....i grind my bevels with a bader (2 hp full speed model) and 50 grit ceramic.. then switch to my wilton with variable speed and 100 blue flex belts after the preliminary hog off of most of the material, for several reasons....all of which have to do with how it looks when i get done... the blue flex belt takes out all the deep scratches, refines the grind..and i can make nice even curves with the flexible edge where my grind starts...hanging the belt off about 1/8" or so...let me know if this helps.

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http://www.mayoknives.com


 
I start with either a 36 or 60 grit, then go to 120. I then proceed to either 220 or 320 depending on how it looks. From there I go to 600 or higher depending on the blade. On the initial grinding up to 220 grit, I use the blue Norton belts.

C Wilkins
 
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