Grinding Question

Joined
Mar 8, 2007
Messages
242
I've got a couple of grinding questions I was hoping someone could help me with. The attached picture is showing what I want the tip to look like, and the one below it is what I keep doing to my tips. Any idea what I am doing to create this? I can usually fix it but it requires changing the curviture of the tip and usually ends up shorter and more rounded than I'd like. Second, do those of you that do scandi grinds do them on a grinder or with a guide? Anyone have a photo of how you hold them to the grinder, blade up / blade down? I'm trying my first and I've had a very difficult time getting one clean full bevel to the edge without a couple of extra planes on it from where I didn't get the angle just right. I'm sure practice will help but I thought if anyone had any tips it might minimize the learning curve. I'm learning that making a functional knife may not be overly difficult but getting them to look professional is a whole nother level. Thanks for any input.
help.jpg
 
Id imagine instead of bringing straight across you arer slightly pushing the tip into the belt thus removing the very tip each time you push it into the belt.
 
Don't slide the tip right to the edge of the belt, stop most of the way across and lift clear. As the blade has less surface area touching your pressure on the remaining area increases, at some point even light pressure is a LOT of PSI relative to when you had full width contact.
 
This makes sense. I've tried to let up a bit, but I find myself ignoring the tip to avoid a problem, then trying to touch it up at the end and I always end up burning it too. I will focus more on stopping short with tip and see what happens. I'll let you know, thanks for the input.
QUOTE=Remyrw;9994893]Don't slide the tip right to the edge of the belt, stop most of the way across and lift clear. As the blade has less surface area touching your pressure on the remaining area increases, at some point even light pressure is a LOT of PSI relative to when you had full width contact.[/QUOTE]
 
I did this a bunch at first, it took me a while to work out how to avoid it and I'm sure some of the more experienced folks have better methods but that is what works for me. Obviously you have to adapt to how you're holding it and the angle of the grind, but as long as you keep in mind that the smaller the area in contact with the grinder the faster the metal vanishes you'll be more likely to avoid the problem.
 
If you still find it difficult to adapt your grinding pattern, there are a couple of guys on here who leave a tongue of steel perpendicular to the tip that takes brunt of the off angle grinding. When you are finished your grinding and are ready to work on sharpening, you just quickly grind it off. I can't find the thread just no but if anyone remembers it please chime in. Also, Nathan has a unique way of making sure his tips come out right, Im sure he won't mind you trying it out next time (I just might) http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...One-way-to-grind-a-tip?highlight=grinding+tip. Either way, keep practicing.

sean
 
If you still find it difficult to adapt your grinding pattern, there are a couple of guys on here who leave a tongue of steel perpendicular to the tip that takes brunt of the off angle grinding. When you are finished your grinding and are ready to work on sharpening, you just quickly grind it off. I can't find the thread just no but if anyone remembers it please chime in. Also, Nathan has a unique way of making sure his tips come out right, Im sure he won't mind you trying it out next time (I just might) http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...One-way-to-grind-a-tip?highlight=grinding+tip. Either way, keep practicing.sean

This is a good idea, grind the back of the blade to meet the tip rather than the other way around. if im not doing a drop point i guess i could just move the pattern down on the barstock instead of aligning the back of the blade with the side of the barstock like ive been doing.
 
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